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Discussion Starter #1
Where can I find a replacement shift lever?
Many sites show the part number 5631054 but all are saying “not available”?

Started with troubles getting into reverse, recognized some play in the lever which may or may not be the issue...
Had to tap the lever off and can see the splines are boogered (shaft splines are good). Seems to me they could have made the spline section on the lever 1/4” wider and there would be more spline engagement.
 

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The correct number is 5631054-067, but it has been discontinued for so long the number is no longer in the system - the only chance of finding one is used and there are none on Ebay. It was only used on the 00-02 Xpedition 325. Other than finding a used one, you need to compare the splines on the shaft or lever to other makes and brands, find one with the same spline pattern and use it. NOTE: keep the lever tight and the splines will last the life of the machine.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Latebird.
I understand what you are saying, sadly we bought this used and the splines on the gear shift lever were already wonky. Yesterday I tried tightening the bolt to get more clamping pressure and snapped the bolt! That is where the tapping the lever off bit above came from.

Thankfully they designed the lever softer than the shaft. Bolt piece was removed successfully. Found a jewelry file and gingerly cleaned up the spline grooves in the lever, it fits well until you get it centered where the bolt relief cut is on the shaft and even after clamping it tight there is play. Put a longer bolt in, in case this one snaps extraction should be easier. Also went one ‘tooth’ up from the alignment mark which seems to make getting in reverse functional.

Was kicking around the idea of putting a relief cut on the ‘inboard’ (towards the front of the vehicle) side of the spline so the bolt could squeeze the lever tighter... worried if I over torque things that the lever will snap at/around the spline and then it would truly be fubar.

Going to start the quest for a compatible shift lever, the Outer Diameter on the shaft splines is .44”, guessing it may be referenced as a 7/16” spline?
 

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The splines are metric.

I discovered the shift shaft for the 325 is the same as the 425 (part number 3086298 and no longer available) however the shift lever for the 425 is still available (part number 5630960-067 @ $78) - I can get the lever new for $50 plus shipping to you. There is one new on Ebay for $78 + $13 shipping HERE. It looks to be alloy and I don't know how close it is to the bend that you need, but you might consider getting a new one for the 425 and if it is not bolt on usable, it and your old one could be cut apart and welded together to give your old lever a new boss.

Or you might try to find a used one for the 325 or the 425, but I didn't have any luck finding a used one.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you again. Solid advice.

The offset of the lever coming from the shaft is approximately 1” outside to outside and the offset begins about 1.5” from the ‘rear’ end of the lever.

Will try to get a couple picks next to a scale to see if eyeballing might be enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Wanted to follow up on this with a little caveat: life gets in the way - my wife took the 425 shift lever and snapped some side by side photos next to the 325. I will not be able to get up to the property for at least another month and then will swap it out.

Looking at the photos it appears that the 425 lever WILL fit on the 325 without any modifications. :grin

A HUGE shout out/ endorsement to Latebird for going above and beyond in helping out some random internet person.

Will follow up once I can get a break from my current insane work schedule.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Got to the Xpedition this weekend, shift lever is an exact fit! 😃(y) Same offset and everything.

however... shifter is not returning to its ‘horizontal’ position. I am over due for an oil change 🤐 hope that clears it up.
 

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When the shifter does not return to the center position, it's usually a bent shift shaft binding in the engine case or the return spring (#30 in the diagram) - the bad news is if the spring is the problem, it requires complete engine disassembly to install a new one and it is no longer available. The spring was used in both the 00-02 325 and 435 Xpedition, but no other models. I could not find a new or used one from any of my sources. However, with the part in hand, Honda and others used similar shifter configurations - it's quite possible a Yamaha return spring would work perfectly. You just need to figure out what the cause is first.

Xpedition 325 shifter schematic
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Of course... winter is here and this is my plowing machine. o_O

Thanks for the diagram. I do have an e-copy of the service manual which will be getting printed out in the near future.

So - bent shaft IS possible as I originally had to tap the old shifter lever off, thought I was being easy on it. Any tips on checking without removal of shaft? I can look for witness rub marks on the outside through hole, but other than that???

Broken ’return’ spring... if this is the issue how much should I fear a piece of the spring bouncing around inside of the engine?

”Complete engine disassembly“ as in not just popping the outside ‘clutch cover‘ plate off? As in pull engine from machine, split case and keep my parts in order?

Wonder if I should start a new thread for this adventure.
 

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Here's how to figure out what is happening: If the shift lever has no resistance to movement and seemingly stays 'down' the spring might be broken - normally is the spring breaks, the transmission will up shift fine, but to down shift the lever has to be raised about 1/2 of it's full travel before pressing down again - when up shifting, gravity will usually return the lever to the center position and is ready for the next pull up to the next gear.

If the lever is just tight and resists movement (stays wherever you put it), then it may be bent and just needs straightened.

It's amazing how you can snag something that will exert enough force to bend the steel shaft going into the aluminum case with out breaking it, but the only way to straighten a bent shaft without damaging the case is to remove it. Removal of the shaft requires the engine to be removed and the cases split.

Some designs just suck, but what is easy on one brand is just plain ridiculous on another brand.

Some of the things I have learned: You can work on the transmission of a Harley Sportster, Triumph or BSA with the engine in the frame, but for every other brand and model of motorcycle, the engine has to come out to work on the transmission. Many Japanese street bikes had cases that split horizontally (Kawasaki 900, Honda 750, Suzuki 1000 and many others). You had to take the motor out to work on the transmission, but you could leave the top end intact. Honda Goldwing engines split vertically, but while half the pistons and crankshaft are installed prior to the other half of the engine being set down over the pistons, the special tools required to hold the pistons while case is set down over them are no longer available and for good reason - you can replace a Goldwing engine cheaper than they can be repaired.

You should have asked about a manual - I think I have it (or one with a similar engine) in PDF and could have emailed it to you for free
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Latebird -
Thank you again for your knowledge.
I won't be back up there for several weeks... maybe Indian summer will hit. :ROFLMAO:
Any chance of doing harm if a piece of the spring is bouncing around in there?

I might end up nursing this until warmer weather (no garage just an open ended Quonset with 17' peak - space heaters do little to keep things warm in northern Wisconsin).
 

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If the spring is broke - usually the spring stays captive to the shaft - if one leg of the spring breaks and falls free, it usually just lays on the crankcase floor and doesn't cause any problems, but it is on a design by design case. In one engine the part can't move around due to the shape of the crankcase floor, but in another engine the piece will migrate to the alternator, attach to the magnet and destroy the stator. Got to determine if the spring is broke or not first then determine a course of action.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Latebird - I greatly appreciate your patience and understanding.

Looking at the diagram I am hoping that IF it is the spring that as you mentioned it stays put.

I hope to be back up there around Thanksgiving and should be able to diagnose if it is a bent shaft or failed spring...
 
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