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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Anyone else frustrated with the Sportsman’s 4 wheel drive system? Can you imagine owning a 4 wheel drive vehicle, Jeep or Pickup Truck and not being able to engage the 4 wheel drive when YOU want it? After reading numerous threads, it became readily apparent that the Sportsman, and Polaris in general, speedos fail after only a few years. The speedo is absolutely necessary in order for the 4 wheel drive to work as there is a simple comparator circuit in the speedo unit that determines when there is sufficient difference between the front wheel drive rotation and the rear wheel rotation to engage the electric 4 wheel drive. (By the way, does anyone know what the ratio between the front and rear wheel rotation delta is? It’s not published ANYWHERE that I can find. Since the Speedo pickup is on the right front wheel, would there be less of a chance of front wheel drive engagement in a left hand turn?) Simple truth, Speedo FAIL = NO 4 wheel drive, EVER! At the current price (July-2013) of $355.00, NO WAY I was going to replace something that is otherwise useless! (Kinda like replacing a body panel because the ‘Sportsman’ logo decal was scratched.)

Frustrated, I decided to convert my 2001 Sportsman 400 into a TRUE, ‘On (MY) Demand’ 4 wheel drive system. Now, whenever I want 4 wheel drive, I simply slide the EXISTING switch on the right handlebar to the ‘ON’ position. No more waiting for the rear wheels to slip, hoping that the speedo works correctly, hoping that something else doesn’t fail before the “all wheel drive” decides to engage. Rather than surfing and sliding across the forest floor on leaf letter and loose dirt, ramming into fallen logs, hoping the rear wheels will slip, I can now simply turn the front wheels and get traction, pulling me in the direction I want to go. When I don't want it I simply slide the 4 wheel drive switch to the OFF position and it's done, the same way I did in my 4 wheel drive Lada, I simply engaged or disengaged the transfer case, WHEN I WANTED!

Convert with No gears to change, no ratios to worry about.

The conversion took me about an hour to complete and works perfectly every time. Based on other wiring diagrams, you would need to check your specific year and model to determine exactly which wires should be altered. I have included a wiring diagram showing those wires I cut, isolated and modified. Like the Mikuni carburetor, the wiring of a Polaris sportsman 400 is also unnecessarily complex. Not quite sure why they decided to leave almost the entire 4 wheel drive circuit 'hot' all the time but they did (Safety? Why? Chances of it failing are GREATER that way. When you need it, it fails, for safety? Say what!)

Just a suggestion but you should consider soldering all your electrical connections to insure they are weather and vibration proof. Additionally, I added a small 3 amp circuit breaker, but a 1.5 to 2 Amp automotive fuse and fuse holder will do nicely.

Process:

1- Disassemble the ‘Instrument/Light’ cluster cover.

2- Remove the ‘Radiator access’ panel.

>>>Perform This Test BEFORE Proceeding and make SURE all power is OFF!<<<

3-On the drivers LEFT side of the radiator access area, locate two (2) connectors, each with SOLID GREY wires and BROWN wires with a WHITE Stripe on top and smaller diameter Solid Grey and Brown wires with a White stripe leading down.
--a) Disconnect both connectors by pulling the top and bottom sections away from each other. (DO NOT pull the WIRES, use the connector body to pull).
--b) Test EACH of the two (2) connectors with the SMALL DIAMETER wires leading down. (see Hub Coil Connectors pix)
--c) Using an OHM meter, measure the resistance across the two pins (one connector at a time) for each connector. Depending on the accuracy and sensitivity of the meter, each connector should read between 25 and 28 OHMS. NOTE: If EITHER of the two (2) Hub Coils reads ZERO (0) or less than 25 or Greater than 28 OHMS STOP!!! The Hub Coil itself OR the wires OR the connectors may be defective or in need of repair!
--d) Using an OHM meter, on EACH of the two connectors, measure the resistance between one pin of each connector and GROUND (any bare metal point on the ATV frame). NOTE: If EITHER of the two (2) connectors resistance to GROUND reads anything GREATER/ABOVE than ZERO ( 0 ) OHMS STOP!!! The Hub Coil itself OR the wires OR the connectors may be defective or in need of repair!

>>>If the test in ‘c)’ or ‘d)’ FAIL STOP, DO NOT proceed!! The Hub Coil itself OR the wires OR the connectors may be defective and MUST be repaired before ANYTHING else is done!<<<

4-(For my model) On the right handlebar, check the lamp in the AWD switch to make sure it is not burned out or missing. Replace lamp if necessary. (Not essential to the AWD operation, just nice to have to confirm voltage is being applied to the front wheel Hub Coils)

5-In the ‘Radiator Access’ area, locate the Red/White stripe wires providing (switched) full time + (battery plus) voltage (accessory power) via a ¼” female connector. “Accessory Leads” – in the wiring diagram.

6-Using a volt meter (or continuity light), CONFIRM that the terminal is OFF (NO voltage) when the ignition switch and the ‘Engine STOP/START switch (on the left handlebar) are both OFF, and has + (positive) battery voltage, when the ignition switch and ‘Engine STOP/START switch are both ON, with the engine NOT running.

7-Start the engine and confirm that the terminal has + voltage, turn off the engine and switch OFF the ignition.

--If all the checks prove true, proceed—(If NOT, check wiring diagram for YOUR model)

8-DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY LEAD! This is essential to prevent electrical shorts and fires.

9-In the instrument cluster housing, locate the Brown/White stripe wire leading to the 6 conductor connector to the speedo assembly. This is the AWD “Grounding” signal wire used by the Speedo Comparator circuit to engage the AWD system.

10-Cut the Brown/White stripe wire about 1”, or so, near the end of the cable harness cover leading out of the instrument cluster. (see pix)

11-Label the cut wire (leading to the speedo assembly connector) for future reference. (This wire end will no longer be used) (see pix)

12-From the radiator access area, locate the wire harness leading to the instrument cluster above.

13-At the wire harness intersection between the main harness (horizontal) and the harness leading to the instrument cluster (vertical), locate the Brown/White stripe wire leading up to the instrument cluster.

14-Pull the cut Brown/White stripe wire back through the wire harness cover into the radiator access area and label it for reference.

15-Solder a ‘Ring tongue’ terminal to the end of this Brown/White stripe wire.

16-Assemble the Brown/White stripe wire with the ‘Ring Tongue’ terminal to the ‘Ground Point’ (use existing bolt) at the top of the Ignition coil. (see pix)

17-From the main wire harness (driver right side) locate the wire harness leading to the Right Handlebar. At the junction, dig out the Grey/White Stripe wire. This wire leads to the “AWD (On/Off) Switch” in the drivers right handlebar. This part of the circuit gives a false sense of SOME control of the AWD (All Wheel Drive) on the ATV; however, the speedo comparator circuit actually determines that AWD, MAY be (or NOT) ALLOWED, in the opinion of Polaris, to engage when a predetermined set of conditions arise, NOT the driver!

18-Work the Grey/White Stripe wire out of the main wire harness cover, back across the front, about 2” and cut the wire about half way, leaving 1” free on each side of the cut.

19-On the Grey/White Stripe wire leading FROM the right side handlebar harness, solder an insulated connector to the end (OR if you chose to use an automotive single fuse holder; one end of a fuse holder assembly - I used a small circuit breaker shown in the pix) Also see ‘Fuse Holder’ pix.

20-Fold away and label the free end of the Grey/White Stripe wire and label it for future reference (This wire end will no longer be used) (see pix)

21-Solder an INSULATED, male ¼” push on connector to a 16 AWG (or 18AWG) insulated wire (OR, if you chose, the free end of your automotive blade style fuse holder).

22-IF (a circuit breaker or cylindrical fuse holder used) Solder a female ¼” push on connector to the free end of the wire used in step # 21 and connect the circuit breaker/cylindrical fuse holder terminals to the insulated female connectors.

23-Connect the insulated MALE ¼” push on connector to the “Accessory Leads” – in the wiring diagram - Red/White striped wires (you tested in step # 5, 6, 7 above).

{I always use a shot of WD-40 in the connectors , prior to assembly, to provide added protection against oxidation and maintain good electrical contact over time.}

24-IF you used an automotive fuse holder, install the 1-1/2 to 2 Amp automotive fuse in the Fuse holder installed in step #21.

25-Reconnect your NEGATIVE battery terminal wire.

26-Reassemble Speedo Instrument Cluster housing.

27-Replace Radiator Access Panel.

28-Turn the Ignition switch and the ‘Engine STOP/START switch’ (on the left handlebar) to the ON position.

29-Slide the AWD switch on the right handlebar to the ON position. The small lamp behind the switch decal should be lit!

You now have TRUE – ON (your) DEMAND 4 wheel drive!

Suggestion:

Make sure you have fresh/sufficient lube in the front hubs. (Based on what I’ve read, and seen, I use Synthetic ATF, spec; Dexron III)

NOTE: At times (maybe 3%) my left front hub is slow to release when I switch the AWD ‘OFF’. Not sure if that is just a characteristic of the Electric Engagement system or some oddity specific to my hub. I just don’t have the time to pull it apart and check.

NOTE-2: Given the ‘Flaky’ nature of the electromagnetic engagement/disengagement system on the Polaris, engagement or disengagement at speed could be disastrous! For example, as I stated above, my left front hub is slow to disengage about 3% of the time. If I were to disengage at speed and tap the throttle, the slow disengagement of the left hub could cause me to FLIP OVER!

STOP to engage, STOP to disengage
 

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Excellent write up! Well done man!
 

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I did something very close to this and mine works fine but I got an unexpected and welcome result my reverse override is no longer needed but my light does not work.
 

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Welcome to the board!:med:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I did something very close to this and mine works fine but I got an unexpected and welcome result my reverse override is no longer needed but my light does not work.

Thanks for the 'Heads Up'. Yep, I forgot to add that the the end of my write-up.

The 'Reverse Override' switch is no longer in the circuit. Now it's simply 'If you want 4 wheel drive in reverse, turn the AWD switch ON'.
 

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Not sure what you are getting at here. I get that you bypass an unnecessarily complex wiring system, but you are still only getting 4x4 engagement when the rear tires slip. This idea is good, don't get me wrong, but it still seems like more than it needs to be. If the speedo is out, all you need to do is ground the awd coils. The switch still provides 12 volts, regardless of speedo condition. The speedo provides ground, for reverse override and to keep awd from engaging at too high of speed. Cut ground wires coming from coils, hook them to common ground. Speedometer bypassed.

I apologize if this came off sounding rude, as that is not my intention. I would just like some insight as to why you chose to do this the way you did. Perhaps I'm missing something.
 

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As for mine the previous owner had rigged a toggle switch when the speedo went bad and I wanted the awd switch back and the reverse overide switch is a pain if you are stuck and trying to fight your way out of a bad mudhole.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Not sure what you are getting at here. I get that you bypass an unnecessarily complex wiring system, but you are still only getting 4x4 engagement when the rear tires slip. This idea is good, don't get me wrong, but it still seems like more than it needs to be. If the speedo is out, all you need to do is ground the awd coils. The switch still provides 12 volts, regardless of speedo condition. The speedo provides ground, for reverse override and to keep awd from engaging at too high of speed. Cut ground wires coming from coils, hook them to common ground. Speedometer bypassed.

I apologize if this came off sounding rude, as that is not my intention. I would just like some insight as to why you chose to do this the way you did. Perhaps I'm missing something.

No problem, not rude at all.

I bypassed the comparator in the Speedo completely. When the driver slides the AWD switch to the ‘ON’ position, then the 4 wheel drive is fully engaged, all the time. The rear wheels can slip or not slip, slipping NO LONGER dictates when the 4 wheel drive is engaged.

Had to come back and edit my reply, glad you provoked some thought.

I assumed that the reader/converter knew NOT to EVER engage or disengage the 4 wheel drive at speed. I had assumed that most people have driven a 4-wheel drive vehicle and were aware that you do not shift into/out of the 4-wheel drive system while in motion (typically, the transfer case does not have 4-wheel syncromesh anyway).

Given the ‘Flaky’ nature of the electromagnetic engagement/disengagement system on the Polaris, engagement or disengagement at speed could be disastrous! For example, as I stated in my write-up, my left front hub is slow to disengage about 3% of the time. If I were to disengage at speed and tap the throttle, the slow disengagement of the left hub could cause me to FLIP OVER!

STOP to engage, STOP to disengage. (Added to my write-up)

Thanks for bringing that to my attention.
 

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very nice write up. I wish my '13 550 was 4x4 when I wanted it not when the rear wheels slip. and I hate that stupid reverse override button. A off roader told me once, dont wait to go to 4x4 until you are stuck. By then its to late. Polaris is designed to "wait" to go to 4x4 until you are just about stuck.
 

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Not being an expert by no means. I am assuming that Polaris and for me 04-08 versions don't have 4-wd in reverse? and by pressing the over ride button just allows us to backwards faster? would this be true or could someone explain further,please..
thnx in advance!
 

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When your 4x4 is engaged now, doesn't it drive weird since the front and rear are geared differently?
 

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the front and rear are geared differently? I thought all 4 x 4 's had to be geared the same front and rear.
 

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Yea, I just learned this myself a while ago. Trucks, jeeps, etc all have to have the same gearing and same size tires. But I guess on these Polaris's, the front and rear are geared differently. When the 4x4 is engaged, the tires spin at different rates. But this is all part of the on-demand AWD system. The difference in gearing allows for the slip of the rear tire to activate the AWD, and once the machine has traction again, the wheels will be spinning at the same rate, and the AWD will disengage. There's a bunch of threads about it on here...

That's why i'm kind of wondering how this 'full-time AWD solution' is working out. Im also a fan of manual 4wd selection, but in this case, im curious if it'll be effective.
 

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Mine is still awd and comes in and out like it should I just have the reverse override disabled. And mine does work in reverse as that is just about the only time I need it as I drive down a levy to the pond to feed the fish and have to back out
 

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interesting. But I wish they kept it simple. It would be allot easier to work on as these things age. I bought a new one because I didnt want other peoples problems. But just like everything else with a motor and wheels the engineers had to over complicate things.
 

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Stumbled upon this on a search, and its is definitely the most detailed instruction I've found. My only problem is, the machine I just got on a trade (2001 Sportsman 400 4x4) has been tampered with extensively. I have no speedo/display, electric start, AWD, or gear indicator lights. The winch and headlights work, that's it. Upon finding related topics about the problematic speedo and bypassing it I open her up to discover the cooling fan is hard wired in some fashion, and not cleanly. They made an attempt at doing the speedo bypass (left hand small brown/white looped to ground, but right hand grey and brown/white was snipped and left disconnected completely). I repaired the both sets of grey and brown/white and looped both left and right brown/white to ground. with machine on jack stands there is no change when AWD switch is engaged. Driveshaft is spinning to front hubs from rear as they should, its just not engaging. Still no indicator lights and now my headlights don't work. To top it all off now the ignition key will not turn, key will go in and out but doesn't turn tumbler. I have quite a mess on my hands and no clue other than taking it to the dealer (which I'll set it on fire before that happens) The end goal is for the machine to have working basics; Electric ignition, cooling fan, headlights, winch, and AWD. I don't need a speedo/hours/ or indicator lights. I would like to return everything back to stock wiring and start over so I know what all is wrong and not affected by tampering but I'm lost.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
the front and rear are geared differently? I thought all 4 x 4 's had to be geared the same front and rear.


The rule is: IF the ATV comes designed from the factory with different size front and rear tires; THEN the final drive gearing will be DIFFERENT, front to back! (NOT 1:1).

Remember your high school math; Circumference = pie * diameter (of the wheel and tire-total height/diameter of the wheel/tire). IF there is a DIFFERENCE in the front and back tire/wheel diameter, the final gearing is designed to compensate for the difference between the front and rear tire CERCUMFERENCE (the distance each tire will roll in ONE revolution).

My 2001 Sportsman 400 came from the factory with 25x8-12 tires in the front (12” wheels) and 25x11-12 tires in the back (12” wheels also); so the tire/wheel diameter/height is = (the same) front and back (25”), therefore, I have a 1:1 ratio drive front to back.

I’m not sure where some people are getting the incorrect information that the Final Drive ratio is different Front to Back on the 2001, but if that were so, each time you would go into AWD (4 wheel drive) the engine would be fighting itself, trying to drag one axle faster than the other, causing scrubbing, very poor control and severe traction issues! (Aside from wearing the tires out).

In my case, I can go with a larger tire or smaller tire HOWEVER, the rule is, whatever I do with ONE axle (front or rear), I MUST do the SAME with the other! (If I go with smaller or larger tires, the Speedo will be incorrect, but who cares!!)

PS: Decoding the tire size may help:
For my 2001 Sportsman 400--------Bias ply, NOT Radial

Front tire = 25 x 8 – 12
First number 25 = 25” (inches) tall-NO LOAD, Un-mounted
Second number 8 = Width of the tire (widest point) - NO LOAD, Un-mounted
Third number 12 = Wheel (mounting area) diameter

Rear tire = 25 x 11 – 12
First number 25 = 25” (inches) tall-NO LOAD, Un-mounted
Second number 11 = Width of the tire (widest point) - NO LOAD, Un-mounted
Third number 12 = Wheel (mounting area) diameter

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Suggestions to help you recover the ATV

Stumbled upon this on a search, and its is definitely the most detailed instruction I've found. My only problem is, the machine I just got on a trade (2001 Sportsman 400 4x4) has been tampered with extensively. I have no speedo/display, electric start, AWD, or gear indicator lights. The winch and headlights work, that's it. Upon finding related topics about the problematic speedo and bypassing it I open her up to discover the cooling fan is hard wired in some fashion, and not cleanly. They made an attempt at doing the speedo bypass (left hand small brown/white looped to ground, but right hand grey and brown/white was snipped and left disconnected completely). I repaired the both sets of grey and brown/white and looped both left and right brown/white to ground. with machine on jack stands there is no change when AWD switch is engaged. Driveshaft is spinning to front hubs from rear as they should, its just not engaging. Still no indicator lights and now my headlights don't work. To top it all off now the ignition key will not turn, key will go in and out but doesn't turn tumbler. I have quite a mess on my hands and no clue other than taking it to the dealer (which I'll set it on fire before that happens) The end goal is for the machine to have working basics; Electric ignition, cooling fan, headlights, winch, and AWD. I don't need a speedo/hours/ or indicator lights. I would like to return everything back to stock wiring and start over so I know what all is wrong and not affected by tampering but I'm lost.


Holy cow! Sounds like someone took an axe to fix a problem that a piece of tape would have done.

Not sure if you need it but I’ve included a wiring schematic for your reference and as a starting point to bring your 2001 Sportsman up to a level of repair you want.

First: Ignition Switch ---(I assume your battery is OK, right? Based on your write-up, sounds like it might be.)
--------------No real way to fix the sealed key ignition switch (you can jump around it but why not replace it), with the price now reasonable, (Amazon dot com has a direct ‘Plug n Play’ replacement for about $25 +), it’s best just to replace it (maybe ‘Gomer’ used a screwdriver to turn yours on a few years ago).

Second: ‘Starter Circuit’ –I’m going to ‘assume’ (very dangerous thing to do sometimes) that your starter SWITCH and wire circuit are OK. You can test it (once your ignition switch is replaced) using a volt/ohm meter or continuity light.—To Test Circuit; 1)Disconnect the wire to the NEGATIVE post of the battery (safety). 2)Disconnect the Red wire with a white stripe (small diameter) leading to the starter solenoid. 3)OHM meter (or continuity light)—Clip one lead to a good ground on the FRAME. 4)With the OHM Meter set to the lowest range, clip the other lead to the Red wire with a white stripe (small diameter) leading to the wiring harness. 5)Turn the ignition switch ‘ON’. 6) Slide the ‘Engine ‘Off/Run’ switch on the left handlebar to the ‘ON’ position (there should be NO change in the OHM meter –HIGH K ohms or Meg ohms OR NO lamp glow in the continuity tester), IF you see the reading drop to a few hundred ohms (or lamp glow), the switch is contaminated and should be cleaned/repaired or replaced.—If you don’t, you may be riding and find that the vibration has caused the switch to randomly engage the Starter Motor! 6)Pull/push the Off/Run’ switch to the ‘START’ position. The Ohm meter should read LESS than 5 ohms (meter dependent) or the self powered continuity light should shine brightly. If so, the circuit is OK. 7)Reconnect the Negative (-) battery lead.

Third: ‘Starter Solenoid’ simple to test. 1) Slide off the protective boot and disconnect the large diameter Red wire leading to the starter. 2) IF the ‘Starter Circuit’ (tested above) is OK/repaired, connect the Volt/OHM meter (set to Volts)/Continuity light to the starter terminal (you just removed the starter cable). 3) Connect the other lead from the Volt/Ohm meter/Continuity light to the Frame/Ground. 4)Turn ON the Ignition key switch. 5) Slide the ‘Engine ‘Off/Run’ switch on the left handlebar to the ‘ON’ position. 6)Push/pull the ‘Start’ switch on the left handlebar. 7)Two things should happen; you will hear a ‘CLACK’/’Thump’ sound from the solenoid and the Volt/Ohm meter should read 12+Volts / the continuity light should light brightly.
IF everything is OK, move on, IF NOT, replace the solenoid. They are the most primitive of relays and haven’t been rebuildable since the early 1960’s. Just about ANY small 12 Volt solenoid will do from any auto parts store ($11 at Advance). If you want one specifically for the Sportsman, Amazon dot com has them from $12 to $22 for a direct replacement.
NOTE: Like “Fourth: ‘Starter Motor’” test below, sometimes the Starter Solenoid will test OK under (essentially) NO LOAD conditions but due to the cheap construction, the contacts may be burned and barely able to conduct current at all and NOT a high current load. That’s why you must test the starter next to verify the problem.

Fourth: ‘Starter Motor’ simple to test, Go/No Go, BUT DANGEROUS! WEAR SAFETY GLASSES and LEATHER GLOVES! If you are at all uncertain, remove the starter motor and take it to AutoZone. They’ll test it for you.
---The starter can be tested using a Volt/Ohm meter but, unless the motor is placed under an actual high amp load, you will not get accurate results!---
1) With the large diameter lead still disconnected from the solenoid (Step Three above) to the starter motor, make sure the ‘Ignition Switch’ and ‘Engine Start/Run’ switches are in the OFF position. 2) Make sure the ATV is in NUTRAL gear and set the break. 3) Put on your safety glasses and leather gloves. 4)Note the location of the large diameter red wire coming from the battery POSITIVE terminal to the Starter Solenoid bolt post. USE THIS Starter Solenoid bolt post for the test DO NOT use the positive battery post on the battery!!!!
5) Slide off the protective boot on the Starter Solenoid to expose the bolt post and connector coming from the battery. 6)Hold the terminal end of the Starter motor wire. ----This next step is where SPARKS may be generated and possibly some metal SPATTER!— 7)With a glancing blow, like you are striking an old fashioned, wooden kitchen match, make quick contact between the starter motor wire terminal and the Starter Solenoid bolt post from the battery. Were there sparks? Did the starter motor engage? --If you are unsure, do #7 again, pausing slightly on the Starter Solenoid bolt post coming from the battery. You may have to repeat #7 again. If there is still nothing, the Starter is DEAD. 8) Replace the protective boot over the Starter Solenoid bolt post coming from the battery.
--Starter Motors can be rebuilt for about 40% of new but isn’t it nice to know that EVERYTHING on the Starter Motor is NEW? I replaced mine in June from Amazon dot com for about $50 but you can get them for around $40.

Just a suggestion to ease Starter Motor reassembly (and future repairs). Since the load on the starter attaching bolts is totally (98%) shear, cut about 6mm to 8mm (the thickness of the bolt head) from the lower bolt, the one that interferes with the clutch housing when disassembling/assembling the starter. (Cut just enough to allow the bolt to be inserted and threaded into the starter mounting hole).

If the Starter motor works REPEATEDLY, then it may be the ‘Starter Solenoid’, as my NOTE above explains.


Uh Oh, wife is calling, got to go.

Maybe this will give you some ideas.

More later.
 

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I don't want to hijack this thread, but i'm hoping someone can help me out... My 4x4 doesn't work but there is full power to both hubs. Armature plates and Hilliard clutches are brand new. They magnatize as they should and have correct hub fluid. On jacks. I can stop both tires with my hand.

Another question. Where the splines / rollers on the Hilliard clutch are.. Should there be some notches on the inside of the hub for these rollers to set into when awd engages??

Because with the hub (cover?) itself off, I can see that the rollers move up when the hex nut spins on the axle... I've done the grounding re wiring, grounded the speedo out.. Awd light works, gear selector indicator works, power to the armature plates... Fully/properly magnatized ect. Someone please help :(
 

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I had a 2000 Xplorer 400 4x4 that i got in 2010 and my speedo never worked but my 4wd always has and does to this day without the speedo.
 
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