Easiest way to know the model and year is from the 17 digit VIN.

Look at the location indicated and write down or take a pic of the VIN

This is the power diagram - I presume the chassis power wire is not connected to the battery positive cable ans is the source of your problem. The fusible link is grey and plugs into the red chassis wire which goes to the key switch (wire #20 at the battery and #21 at the switch)

 

Thank you Lateburd, If I read my VIN right it is in fact a 2002.
I also need to check that wiring then. Im not sure if the fusible link is even there. I been removing parts to let me get a better look at things. Will try this on lunch break

 

Thank you Lateburd, If I read my VIN right it is in fact a 2002.
I also need to check that wiring then. Im not sure if the fusible link is even there. I been removing parts to let me get a better look at things. Will try this on lunch break

My 01 did this.....it was a short in the wiring going up to the lights/starter switch.

 

Fusible link is part number 2202147 from Polaris is $64.99 - it may be replaced with a 20 amp inline fuse, but a fuse is fast acting while the link will hold an overload for up to a minute before failing. You could also use a 20A self resetting circuit breaker.

 

Well, I managed to find a inline fuse from NAPA and placed it in line. Then connected it back to the starter. I have no power at all coming into the inline fuse. I tested with my circuit light tester and the only place Im getting positive from is the battery to the solenoid.
The wire from solenoid to the starter is not getting power but I checked for ground and it shows it has ground.

When I tested the starter to see if I was getting any power there, The tester did not register at all. I also noticed a damaged cable in the front where the voltage regulator is. The red connected to a Y/R wire and I redone the connection there.

I also saw the yellow connection looked like something had melted on it. I cut that and connected some wiring there.
I still have no lights or anything.

So I called up my dad and he asked me to jump the key switch with the battery. When I did that, It sparked. He said it was grounded and that was a problem.
So Im thinking I need to visually check the entire length of the wire and its connection from voltage regulator to key switch?

As for the inline fuse, I used an 18g 0.8 SQ MM wire for it. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BEL784693?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google This one to be exact.
Alos, Looking at the diagram, Should the starter solenoid be grounded by a cable to the chassis? I see 3 wires on my ATV. The starter to solenoid, The solenoid to starter and W/R (31) going to the loom itself

Any idea what to do next?

 

If anyone could supply a picture of what this should look like, It would greatly help me. Like the wiring from the battery to the starter and solenoid and where the starter should be grounded as well as the battery. I would like to confirm somethings if possible.

 

Had some time to mess with it. Reading the wiring diagram over and over. I decided to check my solenoid again. I have positive coming to the right side of the solenoid where the battery is hooked up. On the left side, The power cable/positive that goes to the starter is giving me a ground instead. I also checked it at the solenoid and Im getting ground from there as well.

I put my jumper straight to the starter and I get nothing out of it. I checked it against my battery and my jumper reacts (lights up)
I saw a youtube video earlier and the guy placed a wrench across both bolts on the solenoid and got it to spark. I did the same thing and I got no sparks, no click. Nothing out of it. So, I think its safe to say I may need to change out the solenoid and see whats going on from there?

 

Did you have the key on when you tried jumping the solenoid?

I havent had to mess with mine but IIRC its very similar to the setup older fords had. One of the little wires triggers the solenoid when the key (or in this case, handlebar switch) is engaged.

You might have a bad solenoid, or a bad wire running to the solenoid, or a bad handlebar switch. When i get home i can look at my 01 and refresh my memory a bit.

 

Look guys; the solenoid is just a switch. It's purpose is to make the connection from the battery to the starter motor, just like a light switch makes a connection of the power line to the bulb. If you check the continuity of a light bulb to ground, it indicated the light bulb is not burned out. Turn the switch on and it connects power to ground. The power passes through the light bulb and it illuminates.

A solenoid is an electrically operated switch. Unlike a light bulb that draws about 1 amp of current, the starter motor draws perhaps 50 amps of current. Use a light switch rated at 10 amps to control a 50 amp load and the switch will act like a fuse.

If the starter motor has continuity to ground it means the windings are good or it is shorted out. There will be power on the battery side of the solenoid only until the switch is closed sending power to the starter motor. If you jump the terminals on the solenoid key on or off, you are externally making the connection the solenoid males internally connecting the starter motor to the battery. If you do this and the starter motor does not run, it is because the starter motor is bad or the ground from the battery to the engine has failed.

Get the starter motor running and then address the solenoid operation.

 

I'm going to address the battery to engine ground. It doesn't have one. The only ground I have is the starter negative cable to the battery. That's it. Looked around a lot to see if I missed it. But nope, No other ground.

So I'm gonna see about correcting that today and see if that's also an issue.

 

If there is a negative cable to the starter motor, that is the engine ground. How about the negative side of the battery to the frame?

 

The negative ground is going straight to the battery. I realized looking at the diagram, This shouldn't be the way. That cable I have attached to the battery should be going to the engine rather.

The battery to the frame doesn't have a wire at all due to this. So I'm going to get a 6 GA battery wire today and ground it.

It shows on the diagram that this should also be attached to the engine? Rather than the chassis/frame?

 

This is the frame attachment

 

Yeah, it's not set that way. I'll have to route it correctly. Might be why I'm having issues.

 

Probably

 

Got a chance to put starter ground to chassis and a separate ground for battery to chassis as well. Checked for power with Test light and I was getting positive from my grounds now. The positive cable running from starter got positive which was great but I checked the ground and I was getting positive running there too!
While it was like this, I chose to poke around a bit.

With the light tester, I found I was getting voltage sent to the high beam after I remade the connections that were completely cut. When I checked how much voltage, It was around 9.7. The only place I got 12.8 was from the battery and the battery wire to the solenoid. Anywhere else was 9.7. I checked my 20 amp circuit breaker on both legs and was getting power there.
I noticed the green wire that runs to the low beams were not getting power but the brown wire was.

I also checked the purple wires 18, 19 and 54 and none of those were getting any power. So I kept poking around and tested the kill switch wires and I think only 2-3 wires closest to you when riding was getting power. The first 2-3 had no power at all.

I checked the red wire 21 at the ignition switch and saw I was getting voltage there but found it to be under 10 as well.

 

NOTE: ground wires will show voltage if the component it is grounding has power to it, but if the component has a good ground, the voltage will be low.

For example: disconnect the ground to a light or grip heater and turn it on - there will be battery voltage measured at the wire to the light as well as on the ground wire, but the light will not be ON. Connect the ground wire to ground and the voltage will be lower. You are now measuring the voltage drop across the light bulb. Perhaps it measures 4 volts and the bulb is bright. Now if the ground connection is poor, the bulb may be dim and the voltage on the ground is 10 volts. Ground the bulb directly to the battery and the voltage on the ground wire may be 11.5 or higher.

There is voltage present on both wires of a circuit, but the reading will vary by what point the measurement is made at.

Now remove the bulb and voltage will only be present on the supply side of the bulb socket, but if another bulb is on somewhere else, the ground side will still have voltage present.

Electricity is fun.

 

Well, taking that to heart and working om every single wire.

I've come across #23, #24 at the ignition switch not getting any power. No power to #24 at the switch on the handle bar as well.

I'm also not getting power at #22 and #30

I've also noticed im not getting power #32 and #52 where the circuit breaker is.
I literally replaced that one with a new 20 amp.

So naturally 32 and 52 isn't getting power at the handle bar switch.

So, I kept going and looked at 18, 19 and 54 which have no power to them at all as well.

I've also replaced the 10 amp circuit breaker with the correct one as the old one looked damaged.

I've checked the wiring at the transmission thru the pig tail and not one of those are getting and power.

I'm not super sure what's going on but I'm trying to locate the
Acc/ Rev Acc on the wiring diagram so I'm gonna remove the headlight for some space.

Amy suggestions?

 

Any suggestions?

23 gets it's power from 24 - 24 gets it's power from 32 & 52

32 & 52 gets power from 22 which gets it's power from the red wire at the key switch

If there is no power on 32 and 52, the circuit breaker is faulty

 

Replaced circuit breaker with another 20 amp. Still nothing unless jumped. Pretty much for all 3 circuit breakers.

 

Where are you getting the breakers? Just replace the breaker with an in line fuse and carry a couple of spare fuses.

 

Brown wire is ground on most Polaris models - connecting 12v to brown is a dead short, but brown will read 12v when coming off a DC accessory (like a light) until it has a solid electrical connection to ground and then it will read the voltage drop across the accessory.

 

Im thinking that I might be better of just removing the entire harness and opening the loom. I was checking it again recently and noticed again that with key switch on or off, I was getting no voltage to R/W. I was getting the 12v at Red tho. I decided to look around more and saw I wasnt getting any voltage at the electric switch either on the left hand. Of course, Tracing it shows they connect. I also traced my orange from the switch under the handle bars all the way back to the tail light, I probed it and was getting no volts on my meter. Obviously, It goes from the RW mentioned earlier.

Those circuit breakers, The 10 and 20 I replaced are getting around 5 volts to them at most. Im going to start from the start again and write everything down again which I should have done in the first place. I currently have the key switch jumped with a 10 amp fuse and of course Im getting voltage to R/W and Purple wires. Im not getting any to Yellow (headlight) or Orange (brakelight)

Im going to buy a pull recoil kit since it looks like someone broke the last one and a new carb since this one looks trashed.

How bad of an Idea is it to jump everything just to check if I can get it started? Also, I noticed im not getting any light in my kill switch on the left handle bar. Im guessing yellow wire?

Quick update/edit I was rechecking wires again and while I was checking the transmission switches to see if they were getting power, I noticed the light on my killswitch on my handle bar come on! As I went to press it, The light turned off and did not come back on anymore.

 

Quick update/edit I was rechecking wires again and while I was checking the transmission switches to see if they were getting power, I noticed the light on my killswitch on my handle bar come on! As I went to press it, The light turned off and did not come back on anymore.

There is only one wire with power to the transmission switches - R/W

There will be 12 on the respective wire or wires that the transmission switches connect to depending on the position and the respective indication on the display. Jump red/wht to grn/wht and neutral will be indicated. Jump 12v from the pos terminal of the battery to the grn/wht wire and neutral will be indicated.

There is no need to strip the loom unless testing indicates a wire with no continuity.