Huh? "little red dots"?

 

So when you pull start it the lights and speedo work?

It a pretty simple electrical system - turn the key on and wiggle the wiring connectors on the LH switch assembly - clean, lube, repair or replace the switch assy or the wiring connectors and you will probably be back in business.

 

Yes there is a little tiny red light inside the headlight switch and engine kill switch. I have the ignition that starts like a car. No, the pullstart just starts the engine, nothing i named above works no matter what, its just the only way to start it.

 

Get out your meter or test light - from the neg side of the battery, check for 12v on the red wire at the key switch - if there is 12 on the red wire, check for 12 v on the red/blk wire - no voltage on the red blk wire replace the key switch - voltage on the red/blk wire, check for voltage on the red/wht wire - no voltage on the red/wht wire, repair or replace the LH handlebar switch - voltage on the red/wht wire, no problem all is good now find the faulty ground connection.

 

Is there an exploded view or something on the wiring because everything seems to have power and in place. It went from working to not working within a second so it HAS to be something simple.

 

 

Is there a link for this diagram? resolution too small to read, anyway you could share usable image? Really appreciate it! Thanks

 

I'm thinking fuses fusible link or circuit breaker!!

 

If the fan runs then it's neither a fusible link or circuit breaker, but at nearly 20 years old, it's hard to say how many monkeys worked on it or what 'improvements' they made to it.

Do it my way and check for 12v at the points as I instructed or take it to a qualified mechanic. Otherwise, just pull start it and use it as it is.

 

No one except me worked on it. I bought it brand new, all i did was the AWD bypass many years ago so i dont have to hold down the override button in reverse.

 

So?

 

Im just saying nothing was ever botched. I will test the ignition switch wires tomorrow. I just dont think its the issue because the tiny lights on the LHbar work fine im scared ill be chasing a ghost if all test well.

 

No, you are chasing a fault - it's a process of elimination - determine where the power is and why it's not making the things you want to work. First determine where the power is - I've got a degree in electronics and have been working on these things for over 50 years and the process I described is exactly what I or any other Mechanic would be doing - got to figure out where it is not by knowing where it is.

 

Yep, its a systematic process of elimination OP. As latebird described, you start where you know you have correct voltage and then go step by step till you find where you don't. If you're lucky, it only takes a couple steps to find it, repair it and you're back in biz.
Electrical problems on older machines sometimes require you to eliminate multiple circuits and switches to get to the root of the problem.... Or you may have multiple problems?
But you will ALWAYS find the fault this way. Otherwise, you're just poking around and guessing.

Also, while your testing, you should be cleaning connections looking for corroded or broken pins, apply a little dielectric grease to them, freshen up any grounds you see and check for worn or damaged wiring. Its all just part of the process.

If you follow each and every step latebird describes to you to the letter and report back your results, I'd be willing to bet he'll have you fixed up and running right quick and in a hurry lol. 😁

 

Congrats. Like most of us you now have no more speedometer. You can get a replacement one but it is like $300+. Otherwise you can bypass speedometer for your 4x4, starter etc... I think someone posted the work around, I certainty would not bother fixing or replacing your speedo. I do however consider getting aftermarket speedometer just to have one.

here is a simple youtube with the guy fixing similar issue.

 

Yea I will be doing some testing today but i have to go buy a tester, any suggestions for one so i can buy a good one and have it for awhile? I had a good one many moons ago and it got stolen and i cant remember for the life of me what kind it was. Also, i dont like having ghetto things so even if its $600 and the cluster needs replacing, i will replace it. I don’t understand how anyone can ride these things with broken or missing parts.

 

I just bought a KAIWEETS DVM to test it's accuracy and quality for $30 it's a full function meter with peak voltage function and comes with a thermocouple lead for checking temperature. I've only had it a few months and my tests with it are not 100%, but it has so far proven to be satisfactory for shop use. It is probably not good enough for lab testing, but it has a durable construction and one of my tests has been the 'drop' test. I have accidentally dropped it twice (once while preparing to use it and dropped from my hand to the workbench and once when I pulled on a test lead and pulled it off my lift and it fell to the concrete floor) it scuffed the case, but did not obviously affect it's function. A few more drop tests may damage it beyond reliable status, but for $30 it is a good buy.

Check it out ON EBAY

 

I've been using a $25 Cen-Tech from HF for a couple years now. I've got others but it's actually proven to be accurate for general garage duty and very durable with a rubber outer cover. I too, have "drop tested" it on a few occasions with no apparent ill effects lol. I did also purchase a peak voltage adapter that works well with it too.

 

Thanks guys and latebird said from the negative side so put the negative tester side on the negative side of the battery terminal and use the positive lead on the tester to actually test the key switch correct? What should it read with the key turned?

 

You should read battery voltage on the red wire with the key off, the same on the red/blk with the key on and the same on the red/wht wire with both the key on and the handlebar switch in the run position

 

Started at thr battery, then go to the fuse box check to see where you’re losing power. Grounds are just as important as hots. You may have lost the ground connection to the frame someplace or you’ve lost a fuse to the power distribution don’t throw parts at it. Use a meter, even if you have to get a $20 unit at Harbor freight and diagnose it step-by-step until you find where you have lost power

 

Currently testing right now, so to be clear, put the test light lead on the negative side of the battery and test the switch wires with the switch on the ON position correct?

 

I have a 2002 500. The attached manual is what I use as a resource. As someone who has been in electrical, electronics and fiber optics for 40 years I agree with the gentleman who advised you check all connections with a test light or VOM, clean, recrimp, check wire continuity and the presence of voltages.

Good Hunting

 

Ok so with the key turned i got power on the red and red/blk wire but not the red white wire. With they key off i got power to red wire only

 

Left handlebar Kill switch on?

 

 

Theres the culprit

 

Years ago my 2000 500 sportsman suddenly failed the 4wd light, and had only rear wheels, after a lot of searches I found that there was a situation where if you tried to start with a dead battery using the pull start, it would burn out a couple tiny resistors inside the analog speedometer. Sure enough, I replaced the resistors and voila! Awd worked again. I was told not to try and pull start with a dead battery, this was five years ago, has worked fine since….just something to follow up with….
It was kind of a pain to pry open the speedo, but from there, my EE buddy soldered in a couple tiny resistors and all fixed

 

I was told not to try and pull start with a dead battery,

But isn't that the purpose of the recoil starter?