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OK - I'm finding out the service manuals have not been upgraded to include the ignition upgrade - I need the instruction sheet that comes with part number 2202602
 

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I don't need videos, I need the wiring schematic and technical info - resistances, voltages and which wire goes where - the schematic is the road map of electronics

I contacted Polaris and will now wait for a response
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Ok. Thanks again! I will be pulling the stator cover and flywheel to check, or replace, the pickup coil. I have one that I bought from RM Stator.
 

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I got the installation instructions and a parts list - if you need a replacement CDI unit, it is part 4010897 - a replacement rec/reg is 4010929 and the wire you seem to be having problem is a jumper wire that is also part of the kit - here's the instructions that come with the kit
136891

136892

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136896

136897
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Removed the flywheel to check the pop up coil. It is cracked worse than it was when I checked it before. Should have replaced it then. I have a new one from RM Stator, it doesn't have wires on it so I'll be soldering today. 1580228672820732689190393638603.jpg
 

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Let us know how that works out - the stator and pulse coil is an assembly from Polaris (4010901 @ $465)

Complete ignition upgrade kit (2202602) with flywheel, coil, rec/reg, stator and hardware is $695.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Now that I have every I'm the open, is there anything I can test that might be the problem?
I'm waiting on the hold down bracket that goes on the inner stator cover. There wasn't one in there but the wires all look good, without in nicks or scrapes on the insulation. 15802376611351016685454220817358.jpg 15802376859161348404820480980856.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Well, I'm back to square one. Finally got the wire hold down today and got everything put back together. It cranked over, but no fire. I pulled the stator cover again.. Apparently the new trigger coil I got from RM Stator wasn't correct. It's in pieces inside the stator cover. My stator checks out just fine, so I hate to buy a new Polaris unit. I see that's the only way to get the crank trigger though. I also confirmed my magneto was the correct part number 4010899, and its in excellent condition. I'm tempted just to buy the whole conversion kit and start from scratch!
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I pulled the trigger on a new stator and trigger coil from DB Electrical. 53 bucks, what could go wrong??
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Its fixed! Replaced the stator and crank trigger. I believe the old crank trigger was the culprit all along. The new one that came with the DB Electrical stator was hitting the flywheel when mounted. I took a Dremel tool and slotted the mounting holes to get a little clearance. I had bought a trigger from RM Stator, It exploded as soon as I hit the starter. The manufacturer's should really have the mounting holes slotted from the factory. Anyways, It runs perfect now. Thanks latebird, for all the help and for posting the instructions!!
 

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Discussion Starter #34
......and it quit again. It ran perfectly for 30 minutes, then i put all the plastics back on. That's when it wouldn't start. It fired for just a second, then nothing. Pulled the stator cover and rechecked the trigger. Set air gap to .010. Put it back together. Nothing. Unplugged the black kill wire, started up immediately. I'm going back to do the tests in post #2. I'm betting it'll be the switch on the left handle bar. I was extra careful when I put the front cab and headlight pod back together. The are no pinched or pulled wires. The stator ground is good, sanded and clean. The ground under the stator cover from the stator is attached to one of the bolts holding the trigger on.
 

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Electronics can suck - I just finished a BIG BORE job on a 2003 Triumph 865 Speedmaster motorcycle and when I tried to start it, NO SPARK!

I had replaced the pulse coil as part of the job since the engine cover has to be off to time the cams and the Triumph is well known for pulser failures so my first thought was either connections or coil. I checked the resistance and it was good - I checked the peak volts and that was good, so I went back to connections. I unplugged the CDI and plugged it back in - viola.......... SPARK, but the engine would not start. I checked the plugs again. I found one of the two plugs had a extra wide gap. It was an Iridium plug and the Iridium pad was missing from the center electrode. I put in two new plugs and the engine started. Whew, I was glad it was not a CDI unit or other component like the Throttle Position Sensor - on the Triumph, the TPS is not replaceable - you have to replace the carb assembly - $2125 for the US model. I'm also glad it is not my bike. I have a 1971 and 72 Triumph 650 Bonneville and won't trade them for any other bike. As long as I can get parts for them (and all parts are still in production) I will just keep them. The point type ignition is almost foolproof.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
It's running again! I replaced the ignition switch when I put it back together. It's the wrong switch. It had 4 positions.I believe its for a Polaris that has the key operated headlights. Put my old one back in and the problem is solved.I had bought a new one so that I'd have an extra key. The old one is good. Seems i'm my own worst enemy!
 
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