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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought a 2002 Xpedition 425 that is stuck in 3rd gear. The guy said he just changed all the fluids and shortly thereafter it got stuck in 3rd. I've done some reading and found that the tranny is sensitive to what oil you put in it. I'm hoping I can fiddle with it enough to get it to break free after I fully thaw the machine out and then put the proper spec oil back in. If that doesn't work, what else can I do before tearing it down completely? FYI, I have no issue tearing it down as I half expect to end up going that route, but I'm hoping someone might have some good tips to try first, thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I forgot to mention I'm not sure if the tranny recall has been done, or is applicable to this machine, I still have to check with the dealer. The recall says the rear tires can lockup, not what I'm seeing with this machine, but maybe I can work out a deal if the recall needs to be done and it goes far enough into the transmission :).
 

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Welcome to the board!
 

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We have got two 2000-2002 era Magnum 325's to rebuild. They seem to be simple to work on based on the research I have done. Missing the wrist pin keepers and not sure if I will get some this week or will have to wait until next year with Polaris wear house Christmas/New Years shutting down over that period. Hoping to be able to change out the rod bearing inserts without cracking the case but will not know if that is possible until I tear down one. I guess we will start with the knocking project atv in case we can get the rod cap off but not back on and correctly torqued since the running one that just lost compression sounded OK knock wise. The project one is the one the guy blew an oil cooler line and pumped the oil out onto the road way.

The 325 have too much oil pressure (71-99 PSI) to contain easy so you need good oil cooler lines unlike at least the 500 version that can loose cams when idled because of the (12-20 PSI ) lower pressure system. Make sure you have hoses rated at like 300 PSI. I got ours at NAPA for the one with barbs on the engine and cooler ends. Will convert this last one to barbs at the engine. The failure point seems to be at the steel to rubber union in the 2000-2002 era so going solid rubber is one fix baking both lines replacement cost about $10-$15 on our 325.

Keep us posted.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well the Xplorer/Xpedition forum seems to be slowly dying so I might as well provide an update. I do in fact have a 425, apparently someone replaced the pull start cover with one from a 325. After thawing the machine out it did start shifting again, but not 100%. It did what I at least bought it for, to putt around with my daughter. This spring however after a long run it started to really act up. I decided to remove the clutch cover and see what was up. I found a roller bearing had disintegrated that is part of the shifter assembly that looks like it releases pressure on the change clutch. There are no new or used parts available that I could find, but I was able to order a new roller bearing from the internet and replace just that. Only a little grinding and a couple tack welds required. Sorry I only took one picture during all that! I've already fixed the carb (slide assembled wrong previously) and charging system (one broken wire) and now after fixing the shifting it is virtually perfect. I have a couple u-joints to replace this fall on the front driveshaft but that kinda stuff is expected. Maybe time to look into installing the 2" lift next....
 

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