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Discussion Starter #241
On the primary clutch. The discs the belt rides on that I told you to scuff up.

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No it’s got to be the engine, i found it sputters any time you let off the gas and give a little throttle at any speed, but if I hit the throttle it doesn’t sputter


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That sounds like a fueling issue.
How well versed are you in motorcycle, snowmobile, ATV carburetor work?
First thing you need is patience and a work space where the parts will not be disturbed.
Do you have a bench that you can disassemble the carb on and the parts will not be disturbed. A big commercial baking sheet with turned up edges and welded or taped corners will keep the parts from rolling off into never never land. Cheap dish towels are helpful to keep screws etc from bouncing.
Cleaning with Berrymans Carb Dip in a heated ultrasonic tank or at least a garage crock pot will clean up the metal parts as long as they aren't horribly corroded.

I tried out a Chinese carburetor on a 2001 Sportsman 500 and had terrible results. Even after replacing the needle and seat to stop the fuel leak it never adjusted out properly.
The Chinese carbs are not the same internally as the old unit and those differences may cause you a bunch of grief. That was my guess about what was causing me grief.

I've built a decent Frankenstein carburetor with a heated ultrasonic tank, Berrymans, the old carb, bits of the new carb, and a complete rebuild kit. A crock pot will work as a heated dip tank but it will take a bit longer.
 

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I would look over the intake boot and carb to airbox boot for cracks etc.
If your carb is in good nick and you're leaking air it'll never run right.

Jets are made of brass so they're softer than steel. You can booger em up if you use a standard taper end slotted head screwdriver.
I've modified several screwdrivers to tightly fit various carburetor jet slots tightly using a bench grinder. You'll need to sacrifice a reasonable quality screwdriver. You'll just break the tip off a peanut butter tool. You want them to fit the full width of the slot and the tang should fit straight to the bottom of the slot with almost no play from the top to the bottom of the slot.
 

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Discussion Starter #244
Ok I’ll look into it, needs a air filter I think,


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Change it out with another Polaris 1253144 or 7080595 pleated paper element. They fit correctly and filtration of paper is far better than the alternatives.
If you want to keep the leaves, sticks, and twigs out of the pleats you can get a Polaris 5811633 pre-cleaner sleeve.

There are at least two reasons I avoid washable foam or cotton air filters.
The additional airflow from washable foam or oiled cotton elements will throw your fuel mix off and you may have to re-jet the carb.
The additional dirt from trading airflow for filtration levels are another reason I stay far away from oiled foam and oiled cotton filters. Oiled foam sleeves on the paper elements will work if there is such an animal but it'll restrict airflow and throw off the fuel mix.

If WIX or FRAM makes aftermarket paper air filters for these machines I have yet to see one. Maybe someone that has can chime in. I don't trust the wing dong filters as far as I can throw em.

The big Donaldson air filters on farm machinery and eighteen wheelers are pleated paper with steel shells even with the cyclonic precleaner/separators on the bigger tractors, combines, etc.
 

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Baldwin and Mobile 1 filters are also good. I don't know if they make anything for these
We're not talking about oil filters. I checked Baldwin, WIX, and FRAM for a cross on the Polaris air filter part numbers. They don't list one.
 
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