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07 sportsman 700efi, 06 hawkeye 300cc 4x4, 02 trail boss 325
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Hey All,

Just changed out all 4 calipers, both master cylinders, and all new pads. Using a vacuum bleeder, I bled everything in the correct order and I have a nice firm pedal for the rear, but I can't get any pressure in the front. I did bench bleed both MC's, and retested with the finger method for the front. Over 3 quarts of fluid through the front brakes and they are still sloppy unless I press on the rears a little bit, then they firm right up.

Anything I should look for? I am at a loss. Should be an easy job.

Thanks!
Quick question...do you have an Allen screw on the side housing of the caliper?
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Maybe a 5mm
Yes, on each caliper. I re-bled the upper again, as well as did the finger test, and it is impossible to hold a finger over it. Then bled the entire system again starting with the main line from upper mc to lower mc, then the wheels. Back brakes are nice and firm, front is spring tension only unless I tap the rear pedal a bit. There are no leaks anywhere ( put cardboard under the quad) after going through 2 more quarts of fluid with a mighty vac bleeder. I am lost on this.
 

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07 sportsman 700efi, 06 hawkeye 300cc 4x4, 02 trail boss 325
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Have you adjusted those Allen screws...not the bleeders, the Allen screw adjusters
 

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07 sportsman 700efi, 06 hawkeye 300cc 4x4, 02 trail boss 325
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May be part of the issue...back them out a few turns... They are for adjustment not to be completely in... I had the same issue on my sons 02... They are about an 8th of an inch out of the calipers now and the brakes work perfectly...I used thread tight to keep them from backing out anymore... When I tightened them all the way the brakes would do nothing..
 

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Discussion Starter #27
May be part of the issue...back them out a few turns... They are for adjustment not to be completely in... I had the same issue on my sons 02... They are about an 8th of an inch out of the calipers now and the brakes work perfectly...I used thread tight to keep them from backing out anymore... When I tightened them all the way the brakes would do nothing..
I will give it a shot!
 

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07 sportsman 700efi, 06 hawkeye 300cc 4x4, 02 trail boss 325
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Cool... Everything else your saying sounds right but those front calipers and those years get a little goofy with those set screws...let us know
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Just backed them out and same thing. Backed them out a bit more and still no change. I only get a firm break in the front if I depress the rears slightly with the pedal.
 

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07 sportsman 700efi, 06 hawkeye 300cc 4x4, 02 trail boss 325
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Just backed them out and same thing. Backed them out a bit more and still no change. I only get a firm break in the front if I depress the rears slightly with the pedal.
Just backed them out and same thing. Backed them out a bit more and still no change. I only get a firm break in the front if I depress the rears slightly with the pedal.
On the atp do you have one brake line to the rear or 2?
 

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Discussion Starter #32
On the atp do you have one brake line to the rear or 2?
One line and bleeder to each front caliper. One line and bleeder to each rear caliper. One bleeder and 2 lines to the rear Master Cylinder. One line to the front Master Cylinder.
 

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07 sportsman 700efi, 06 hawkeye 300cc 4x4, 02 trail boss 325
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One line and bleeder to each front caliper. One line and bleeder to each rear caliper. One bleeder and 2 lines to the rear Master Cylinder. One line to the front Master Cylinder.
So the foot pedal has its own pressure and reservoir?
 

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Discussion Starter #34
So the foot pedal has its own pressure and reservoir?
Yeah. The rear pedal is nice and firm, and has it's own reservoir. There is a line from the front MC to the rear MC, so that the front brake handle can actuate both front and rear brakes.
 

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07 sportsman 700efi, 06 hawkeye 300cc 4x4, 02 trail boss 325
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Yeah. The rear pedal is nice and firm, and has it's own reservoir. There is a line from the front MC to the rear MC, so that the front brake handle can actuate both front and rear brakes.
So by loosening those screws all the way up and re bleeding the front lines.... Sounds like having the little pressure on the rear is giving it just enough back pressure to actuate the front...just thinking here
 

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Discussion Starter #36
So by loosening those screws all the way up and re bleeding the front lines.... Sounds like having the little pressure on the rear is giving it just enough back pressure to actuate the front...just thinking here
My thinking exactly. Just can't get any presure to build in the fronts at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
I did jack up the front end as high as my Napa 6 ton jack will go so she is up there. I will try again tomorrow to re-bleed the entire system with it up sky high.
 

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I did jack up the front end as high as my Napa 6 ton jack will go so she is up there. I will try again tomorrow to re-bleed the entire system with it up sky high.
Maybe do it with those set screws way out...if you get pressure you can always bleed them while bringing them back it...but mine are useless even 3/4 of the way in...the cylinder won't travel enough with them in all the way on this one
 

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Apparently you guys do not understand how the stationary brake pad adjuster screw works?
The calipers have a moveable pad and a stationary pad. The screw is used to adjust the stationary pad so its correctly oriented to the brake disc.
Pump the brake lever till pressure it built up. Apply a drop of blue loctite to the screw threads and insert it and turn the adjuster screw all the way in until the stationary pad contacts the brake disc. Then back it out 1/2 turn. They ALL have to be set that way for the brakes to function correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Apparently you guys do not understand how the stationary brake pad adjuster screw works?
The calipers have a moveable pad and a stationary pad. The screw is used to adjust the stationary pad so its correctly oriented to the brake disc.
Pump the brake lever till pressure it built up. Apply a drop of blue loctite to the screw threads and insert it and turn the adjuster screw all the way in until the stationary pad contacts the brake disc. Then back it out 1/2 turn. They ALL have to be set that way for the brakes to function correctly.
So, remove it, and see if pressure builds, then put it back in until it makes contact, and then back out a 1/2 turn?
 
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