Fuses good?

 

i didn't check yet, i didn't think of it. i'll check them later 2day and let u know.

 

fuses are good

 

Chk the condition of the wires around the steering stem. The constant twisting of the wires from turning causes them to fail.

 

In addition to fuses, maybe relays?

To add to this, on my 08 500 I had some broken wires in this exact spot. Also doesn't help the oil tank breather line has that slit in the top of the hose right by those wires. Condensation plus twisting. No good.

 

i will check them and report back

 

ever figure it out?

 

Hi,,, I have a similar problem. Power to the solenoid but now power anywhere. Replaced the solenoid,, still no power.
Do you have any idea of what the problem may be. TY,, Dan

 

Hi,, I'm new on the forum. Could anyone give me some help with an electrical problem on my 2005 sportsman 800.
Battery is good, I have power to the solenoid, but no power anywhere else. I replaced the solenoid but still no power.
I'm looking for some suggestions as to what else to try. TY,, Dan

 

So the problem occured prior to replacing the solenoid?

 

yes and there was no sign that a problem was happening. The quad was parked in the garage with a battery tender on it and the next time he went to use it,, dead,, only have juice up to the solenoid.

 

Load test the battery. Sounds like its NG!!

 

ok TY... it will take me a few days before I can visit my son as he lives an hour away and the quad is in his garage. TY again

 

Ok aside from that check the fuses. Oh and check and make sure the kill switch isn't in the "OFF" position.

 

I checked all the fuses and the kill switch was on the ON position. There was no juice to any of the 4 fuses and no juice to the kill switch. TY

 

Ok get that battery checked!!! Any voltage at the battery??

 

The battery without the battery tender hooked up was pushing out about 13.2 volts

 

Also,, there was about 13.2 volts at the solenoid.
I just ordered a battery load tester from Amazon,,, hopefully will come in a few days

 

Alright well then you have enough voltage to test the electrical system. The white/red wire at the solenoid should have 12v on it with the key in the "START" position. If not test the black/red wire at the key switch for 12v.

* I just did a little research regardless of the power at the key switch or kill switch you should have power at the fuses.

 

Alright well then you have enough voltage to test the electrical system. The white/red wire at the solenoid should have 12v on it with the key in the "START" position. If not test the black/red wire at the key switch for 12v.

* I just did a little research regardless of the power at the key switch or kill switch you should have power at the fuses.

Hi guys,, Today, I took a battery load tester and new battery to work on the quad. I load tested the battery in the quad and it was in good shape with a voltage of 12.8 volts. So, I proceeded to check for voltage at different parts of the quad.
I had 12.8 volts at the brand new solenoid but NO voltage anywhere else.( i.e. at the 4 fuses, at the ignition, at the kill switch, and at the lights.) Is there a fuse somewhere else that I am missing ? Is there a relay switch that would send power to the ignition or kill switch that might be bad ? Again,, I appreciate all the help you guys are giving.

 

Alright well then you have enough voltage to test the electrical system. The white/red wire at the solenoid should have 12v on it with the key in the "START" position. If not test the black/red wire at the key switch for 12v.

* I just did a little research regardless of the power at the key switch or kill switch you should have power at the fuses.

 

ok TY

 

You got to love the complexity of EFI...............

So you have 13v at the battery - there are 3 fusible links between the battery and the chassis wiring. You need to check the battery voltage at the 5, 15 and 20 fuses in the fuse block. At the fuse block, power goes through the 20 amp fuse and on to the key switch.

Check for 12v on the yellow wire of the key switch - if there, then turn the key switch on and see what the voltage does - if still 12v or at least over11.5, check for voltage on the red/blk wire - if good, check for voltage on the red/wht wire - if good, what works and what doesn't? If no voltage on the red/blk wire, replace the key switch - if no voltage on the red/wht wire with the handlebar switch in the run position, repair the wiring connections at the handlebar switch or replace the handlebar switch assy. If no voltage on the yel wire at the key switch replace the 20 amp fuse or repair the fuse block.

For testing, unplug the key switch and jump the battery + to the red/wht wire at the key switch plug - everything should light up and the engine can be started usng the recoil starter or momentarily jumping the battery + to the wht/red wire at the key switch plug.

Note: it is not wise to leave a Battery Tender* connected to a battery for a long period of time and what are you calling a battery tender? If the out put is above 1.5 amps it is a charger and not a 'tender'. Also, what is it's output in the float state? If it's over 1/10 amp, it will damage a battery in a matter of days. Not all 'battery tenders' are created equal.

Best method of maintaining a battery in storage: (long term - over 30 days) store at about 45 degrees F (the battery charge decays more slowly when it's cold than when warm) and charge a minimum of every 30 days. (short term - less than 30 days) connect a 1.25 amp (or less) output Battery Tender* and control it with an outlet timer. Turn the Tender on daily for a sufficient time to bring the battery to a full charge and then shut off - it is better for the battery to be cycled than to be continuously charged at a low rate.

 

TY for your help.... The quad is at my son's house... about 1 hr. away from me. I will be visiting with him later in the week and I am going to try some ideas that you guys have given me. I will keep you posted. Thanx again

 

Ok so there is either a fusible link or self resetting circuit breaker. It's behind the battery assuming the battery is under the right rear fender. If it's a CB it'll look like this.

This is most likely the culprit as it feeds the fuse block.

 

The circuit breaker is for the fan - it does not feed the fuse block

There are 3 fusible links connected to the battery side of the solenoid - are they connected to the right side of the solenoid?

This a scanned image., so the resolution is not that great

Here's the image from the 07 manual - uses the same part, depicted a little differently, but wired the same

Do you have 12v on wires 83, 84 and 81?
83 and 84 are parallel to the rec/reg

81 goes to the fuse block and is bussed to 3 fuses and splits to wire 82 - not a concern at this point - you have to get power on wire 81 - either you have the fusible link on the starter motor side of the solenoid or have a faulty fusible link or a loss of ground.

 

I stand corrected and thought is was correct and the manual was wrong after inspecting the harness. The pic I posted of the CB I assumed was an updated method of OCP on the more current 800s.

So the fusible links @latebird is referencing to test are in the wire harness right by the starter solenoid. The 3 fusible links will be in the harness going toward the front of the machine. They're within 6" of the ground leads and starter solenoid leads.

For a reference I inserted Flathead underneath one of the fusible links. Also in the picture you can see the leads for the solenoid and grounds. To give you a reference of how close they are to the fusible links.

 

On a side note @latebird that circuit breaker I posted a picture of is that the back end of the harness just downstream of where the solenoid and ground leads are. Where is on the 570 that breaker is up front by the radiator. So that's where the confusion lies on my end.

 

Yeah - there is no standard location for the CB - some are near the fan and others may be near the battery or the fuse block depending on the model - also some models do not have a CB in the fan wiring and other models have a CB in place of the fusible link. So happens the 800 in question has wire 81 feeding the fuse block and 81 splices to 82 with wire 82 going to the CB so it has a fusible link between the battery and wire 81 which means the circuit breaker get it's power via a fusible link.

 

Hi Guys,,,,, I want to Thank You for all the great troubleshooting ideas. I wanted to let you know that I finally found the
problem today. I peeled back the black plastic tubing from the battery to the front of the quad and found a splice in the hot wire that apparently pulled apart. I'm thinking that the previous owner decided to tap into the hot wire for some reason and did not solder it or heat shrink it back together properly. So "long story short", I soldered it and put heat shrink tubing on it. The quad runs as it should. So,,, I thank you guys again for all your help !!!!!!
Now,,, I've got another problem with a 2017 Polaris Sportsman 570. It seems that I lose the power steering every now and then and the p.s. light comes on when the problem occurs. The power steering works as it should after I start driving it for a few minutes. I checked some other forums and I saw that some other people were having a similar problem but there was never a resolution. I called a Polaris dealer and they told me that they were not aware of any issues with the power steering. Do you guys know anything about this problem ??

 

Great that you found the problem. Suggest that you start a new thread for your PS issue to better focus everyone's attention.