We have a 06 500 HO EFI and it is not taking a charge. The battery has been tested and is fine and holding the charge at 12.5V and recovers after a load is put on it with the battery tester. When it was revved up it would get between 9.5 and 11.2 Volts max. I realize that normal should be around 13.5 to 14.5 Volts. Any chance someone can assist me with trouble shooting the other electrical components. The solenoid connections looked rusty and we are in the process of cleaning those up. Any assistance is appreciated.
2006 Polaris 500 EFI Not Charging
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Do you think that's the thing under the front storage rack in front of the fan. It is gray and about 6" long and 2" wide.
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Before you run out and buy a new ECM/voltage regulator test the outputs from the 3 stay or legs. They should be the three yellow wires that come from the stator. Test continuity from each yellow wire to ground. You shouldn't have any continuity at all. If you do that means that stator leg is shorted and you need it rewound or just get a new one.
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I have the same bike. had to replace the stator couple of years ago because of the same symptoms. My mechanic told me that the telll tale sign for a bad stator was an eratic rpm guage (hit and miss) he might be full of it but i think he was being honest. hope this helps.
I just checked the 3 yellow wires that come from the pull start side of the engine that go into a grey plug. There are actually 4 wires. 1 brown on the left side of the plug and then the 3 yellow. Starting from the one nearest the brwon wire my meter was reading .1 ohms and .0ohms at times. The same for the second wire and the third wire on the right hand side of the plug was .0 ohms. Is that what it should be reading? Could it be a battery that is not accepting voltages? Thanks
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the resistance for those 3 should be at OL or overload for the ohmmeter, your not supposed to have any continuity to the frame at all, That brown wire is probably a ground wire. When I say continuity I mean a solid metal to metal link between point A to point B, if its connected the resistance should be little to none, IE 0-2 Ohms. If its not connected or there is no continuity the Resistance should say OL on the Ohm meter no matter what setting its on.
Okay so I change the setting for volt meter( k = 0.000). With the positive lead on the connector and the black negative on the negative battery post I was getting 0.000. Same setup but with the black negative on a bolt attached to the frame I was getting 0L. Hopefully this makes sense to you. So... does the readings tell me my Stator is good?
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In theory the negative terminal on the battery should be the exact same reading as the bolt, because the negative terminal just runs right to the frame...
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Hard to tell, I would say with the engine running you should be getting AC voltage to those three yellow wires. The rectifier witch is built into the ECM/Voltage regulator will transform it to DC voltage which charges the battery.
So with the engine running I will need to have the connector plugged back in together. Then do I de-sheath those cables a bit to get the voltmeter probes on the bare wire. If it reads a voltage what number should I expect? If within those readings anything else I can check? Thanks again for your replies!
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you can just put the probe in the back of the connector or stab the wire with it. I wouldn't cut the sheathing. I don't know off the top of my head and I couldn't find the service manual for your bike but I'm guessing somewhere around 18 to 25 volts AC but then again the voltage should increase with RPM increase though. so its really hard to say what you'll see at idle, and remember to leave the battery connected for all of this, you'll really screw it up if you run it without the battery. In theory you could run it without those connected because the fuel pump and all the electronics will run off the battery until the battery is dead. Kind of like what its doing now. The Carb models were much better because they didn't have such a load on the stator/battery to run. Just really needed the ignition coil to tell the plug when to fire. The rest is mechanical. Try testing to ground in other spots of the frame as well or scratch a mark right through the paint on the frame to check.
I never ran it because I cannot seem to get into the cables. I agree not to de-sheath the cables. I retested without the plug connected and found that I was getting some resistance. 0.000... is not 0L. So I guess it must be the Stator. I think there is a post that would tell me where to get a service manual for this machine. Any thoughts on a used Stator. Is it better to buy new or are they all a gamble on how long they last.
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