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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I have a 2007 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI with high miles on it. I have pretty much rebuilt this machine. Over the weekend, while riding the trail system at Hatfield Mccoy in WV, my ATV would not move when in high gear riding at a high RPM. All the other gears works fine including Low gear. My first assumption was that my transmission was bad. But after further research, I am leaning toward the clutch system. Leading up to the problem, I had to tow 2 other ATVs out of the mountain due to mechanical issues. The drive belt was new. I changed back to the old drive belt and I still have the same problem. I found the forum thread below late last night which shows how the clutch system should work. After work today, I will see if the clutch system is working correctly. How can I rule out that it is not the transmission? If it is the clutch system, do you recommend buying a new (not used) Polaris OEM primary and secondary clutch since the ATV does have high miles? With a new Polaris clutch (primary and/or secondary), do I need to do any calibration? Also what is the best clutch puller to purchase?

http://www.polarisatvforums.com/forums/polaris-scrambler/46213-transmission-clutch-trouble.html
 

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Good morning sorry to hear of the troubles!

First off I would pull everything and give it a good cleaning inspection and re surfacing of the sheaves.

The primary is the bugger to remove and a removal tool is pretty much required. Good news is it's not expensive ($40) and it's also easy to make! You need about a foot of 3/4" fine threaded bolt (All thread) a couple 3/4" nuts and then a 5/8" deep well socket.

Remove the bolt holding the primary on, slide the 5/8 socket in its hole (it's just a spacer for this purpose. Now thread in the 3/4" bolt until contact is made with the socket. Now install the two nuts and tighten against each other. Now with a wrench screw the 3/4" bolt in! It will push against the socket that's pressed against the crank end and the force will "pop" the primary off. Yes it will/could make a popping noise as it releases.
The secondary is splined and should slide off once bolt is removed.

Taking the primary apart is more difficult and also required tools or some injinuity on your part. The secondary is under more stress and can be dangerous on some models so be careful. I recommend a good Manuel on your specific model.

I'm betting you will find at best weak springs but worn buttons or weights and glazed sheaves.

Good luck,


CW
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for responding so quickly.. So based on all the information provided, are you leaning toward the fact something is not working correctly in the clutch system..The primary and secondary clutch are expensive, but I don't want to be broken down on the trails on my next trip.. I am considering purchasing a new primary and secondary clutch. Is that a smart thing to do?
 

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Don't go buying clutches until you check out the ones you have. They may just need a few parts which you would likely have to buy on to of new clutches anyway. Springs and weights wear over time and need Rio be replaced. But if you find anything in the primary that would require a complete rebuild of it, many times it is easier to just replace it.that it's because rebuilding one is almost as expensive as replacing it.
 

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EXACTLY!

DONT JUST BUY NEW!!

There are wearsblemits in the clutches. There are a number of good threads on the CVT system. Do a search.

You will have it working 5x5 in no time.

CW
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I will try to remove the primary clutch today and post pictures. What are the wearable parts in the clutch I should look at? Do I need any special tools to take the clutch apart to get to the wearable parts? I remember seeing a clutch compression tool on one of the forum thread.
 

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If it's only giving you trouble at higher speed, I'd take a look at the sheeve bushings on the driven clutch. When they wear out it will allow the sheeve to wobble, and under enough pressure, it will stick. Generally does this at higher speeds. The buttons in the driven clutch are likely worn out if it's not an EBS system. Both cheap and easy fixes, best of luck to you.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If it's only giving you trouble at higher speed, I'd take a look at the sheeve bushings on the driven clutch. When they wear out it will allow the sheeve to wobble, and under enough pressure, it will stick. Generally does this at higher speeds. The buttons in the driven clutch are likely worn out if it's not an EBS system. Both cheap and easy fixes, best of luck to you.
Yes.. The problem only occurs in High gear. All the other gears work fine.
I assume the driven clutch is the same as the secondary clutch.. I have attached a breakdown of the driven clutch.. So the sheeve bushing is #1 in the breakdown schematic.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Does anyone know if the primary and secondary clutch from a 2013 polaris sportsman 500 HO will fit a 2007 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I read on another forum to check my motor mounts as well...

Also why is everyone ruling out the transmission as the problem?
 

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Not ruling out the trans, just starting with the most common and easiest stuff to check. It's relatively simple to pull the clutches and inspect them. Much more time and labor intensive to pull the tans and tear it down. Having seen hundreds of neglected clutches and rebuilt hundreds on top of that it's a pretty common thing. Most owners are totally unaware of the wear in clutches and belts.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Not ruling out the trans, just starting with the most common and easiest stuff to check. It's relatively simple to pull the clutches and inspect them. Much more time and labor intensive to pull the tans and tear it down. Having seen hundreds of neglected clutches and rebuilt hundreds on top of that it's a pretty common thing. Most owners are totally unaware of the wear in clutches and belts.
I will post some pictures once I remove the clutch.. How much will it cost to rebuild? Maybe you can provide me some guidance on how to or quote me a price on doing it.. You can PM me...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Any homemade tool to remove the spider in the drive/primary clutch? Just checking in case I need to...
 

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Complete rebuild kit for a primary is about $150 plus the one way bearing if you have ebs. With labor and return shipping you would be looking about $250-275 for a non ebs W . Eccto have your primary rebuilt. However, that's assuming it is in good enough condition still to rebuild. Would need to have it in my hands to inspect it. Secondary kits are about $40 for a button clutch and are much easier to do. You need about $400 in specialty tools at a min plus a shop press to do both clutches. New primary runs about $450 and you will very likely need new weights and spring as well either way. If have to look up prices for oem stuff as most of the time when doing a rebuild my customers install a clutch kit at that time too.
 

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A bad motor mount is a consideration and something beck rarely worth checking. Just get a pry bar and apply leverage. You will know right away.

I am pretty well assured that this problem is in your CVT system. IE in the clutches.

The transmission is really a misnomer when compadres to a conventional auto transmission. The one in most Polaris machines gives you forward, neutral and reverse. The "gears" are the CVT. It's constant velocity or NO GEARS! Acceleration occurs as the belt tracks up and down the sheaves in the CVT. (Not a lot different than a belt drive on a drill press. Accept the Erik press is only variable when you move the belt manually. Your CVT does this automatically.) Your problem is found to the upper end or what you call "high/ top gear" RPM range. All this means is its a problem when the primary is pinched or nearly closed and the secondary is opened or nearly all the way.

Have you read the post CVT 101? It's a sticky in the performance modifications gate of this forum. It's a good easy to understand outline of what a CVT does.

If this is beyond your means, (no offense but sounds this way) the offer Ride it again has proposed souled like a good option to you.

CW
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The expensive tools is what's scaring me. Other than that I would be willing to rebuild the primary and secondary clutch.
 

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Unless you plan on doing a lot of it, the tools aren't worth it. I rebuild a lot of clutches for several brands so it's worth it to me. Even if all I did was my race sleds and occasional atv for myself it would be worth it, but the next time you will use it will be 3000 miles from now.
 

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I built my own tools.

I copied the EPI tools seen in there videos. But I am a welder and shade tree fabricator.

Once your inside the clutches the job is cake. The snap ring and compressing it in the secondary is a bit scary. The primary is also under pressure but one can get it apart carefully backing off the screws and pressing down. Again knolege of doing this previously helps a lot.

If it's in your budget get togather with Ride in again. Sounds like he is all set up and will do a good job for you. BTW he is not just a guy on some web site, he has a shop and sells parts and service.

CW
 
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