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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I recently Acquired a sportsman 500 and it had a busted headlight on the front but the previous owner said the other lights worked great well none of the lights work currently and I have taken all the covers to see if I can see any broken wires and have tried to chase the wires as best I can and can’t figure out what the issue is.. I will say not long after I got it the lights did come one for about 30 min but after turning off the machine and back on they did not come back on

I have replaced the busted headlight and nothing I thought it may be an issue with left handle master hi/low switch replaced that and nothing.. other toggles on the switch work fine

Could it be related to the battery that was put on the machine.. it’s an. Auto-craft tx14 battery I have a voltage meter and off the battery is measuring 12.9 but didn’t see that battery listed on the sites I where I searched for compatible batteries


Any other ideas on how I can diagnose and figure out why the lights won’t work?



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Chk the fuses. Then power and ground at the bulb connector. Then power at the switch, in and out!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Chk the fuses. Then power and ground at the bulb connector. Then power at the switch, in and out!!
Thanks for the reply so power at the bulbs if power is getting to the bulbs should it be 12v dc?

And to check power at switch do I put red probe in the green and black on the frame to see if it’s getting power to the switch? Should it be 12 v also dc?


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Yup 12vdc system!!!
 

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Well, we have determined that it in fact a 2009 model.

If you have power on the red/wht wire then with the switch in the low position, red/wht connects to dark green - in high it connects to yellow - usually the connector at the handlebar switch is the culprit

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, we have determined that it in fact a 2009 model.

If you have power on the red/wht wire then with the switch in the low position, red/wht connects to dark green - in high it connects to yellow - usually the connector at the handlebar switch is the culprit

View attachment 157819
Ok gonna check those tomorrow when I’m off Call ha yes I bought one of the master switches hoping that’s the issue i have replaced the fuses just in case.. just have to make sure will make sure the red and white wire is sending power to the switch tomorrow.. if that’s not the culprit could it be that one of the grounding wires has come loose.. this thing was missing a lot of screws when I got it.. it litterly had two screws holding the front dif in place and it was riding on the frame..



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If you look at the schematic you will see the red/blk wire (which is hot with the key on) connects to the red/wht wire internally inside the switch assy.

With the switch assy. unplugged from the switch and the key switch on, short the red/blk to the yel to energize the high beam and to dark green to energize the low beam. That will affirm integrity of the wiring and light circuitry. NOTE: nothing else will function during this test - the indicator lights and taillight are not energized until blk/red is connected to red/wht
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If you look at the schematic you will see the red/blk wire (which is hot with the key on) connects to the red/wht wire internally inside the switch assy.

With the switch assy. unplugged from the switch and the key switch on, short the red/blk to the yel to energize the high beam and to dark green to energize the low beam. That will affirm integrity of the wiring and light circuitry. NOTE: nothing else will function during this test - the indicator lights and taillight are not energized until blk/red is connected to red/wht
By short do you mean like put a paper clip in black and connect it to green then yellow which would be like you said direct route to low and high beam?

Yeah crazy thing is the gauge cluster works and lights up when green yellow wires ect plugged into the left handle switch but not the lights..?


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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If you look at the schematic you will see the red/blk wire (which is hot with the key on) connects to the red/wht wire internally inside the switch assy.

With the switch assy. unplugged from the switch and the key switch on, short the red/blk to the yel to energize the high beam and to dark green to energize the low beam. That will affirm integrity of the wiring and light circuitry. NOTE: nothing else will function during this test - the indicator lights and taillight are not energized until blk/red is connected to red/wht
So red/black showed 12.85 v with the key on and paper clip from red/black to yellow top high beam head light comes on and when connected and when connected to green both low light beams came on

So could the issue be a bad ground? I connected them both to new switch that was not on the atv and still didn’t work the other day.. if wire continuity is good would it be either a bad switch, or does the left handle bar switch have a built in ground and have to be on the bike to work? Or I could have gotten a bad switch when I ordered I guess


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So red/black showed 12.85 v with the key on and paper clip from red/black to yellow top high beam head light comes on and when connected and when connected to green both low light beams came on

So could the issue be a bad ground? I connected them both to new switch that was not on the atv and still didn’t work the other day.. if wire continuity is good would it be either a bad switch, or does the left handle bar switch have a built in ground and have to be on the bike to work? Or I could have gotten a bad switch when I ordered I guess.
It could be the switch, but the connectors on the wires are notorious for failing. I think OTB has replacement pigtails to effect a repair. Maybe this one will fix the problem? You migh want to call OTB to verify the application.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It could be the switch, but the connectors on the wires are notorious for failing. I think OTB has replacement pigtails to effect a repair. Maybe this one will fix the problem? You migh want to call OTB to verify the application.
So just wanted to give a shout-out to @latebird on all his electrical help! On my Polaris! It the middle of trying to figure out why my lights wouldn’t work my atv stopped trying to crank at all! The odometer lights would turn on and fuel pump would turn on With the help of latebird and the Polaris service manual I was able to trace the problem back to my key ignition switch

It’s a 6 pin switch that when the key is turned over to crank sends power to my starter solenoid via wire #31 wh/rdand I assume a spring or something went bad in the key switch so the starter solenoid was not getting power!



Replaced the ignition switch and now cranks without hesitation


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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Related to the lighting issue After more research last night I was able to find a similar post on this form where someone else was getting no power to their lights but had power on their odometer turns out that my Polaris at least part of the power for the light comes from the from the 15amp Fuse labeled EFI red/yellow #85 it was corroded and partially melted..

I assume the previous owner overloaded it at some point.. regardless removed and cleaned the pin and replaced the 15a fuse and lights work like a charm!


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Related to the lighting issue After more research last night I was able to find a similar post on this form where someone else was getting no power to their lights but had power on their odometer turns out that my Polaris at least part of the power for the light comes from the from the 15amp Fuse labeled EFI red/yellow #85 it was corroded and partially melted..

I assume the previous owner overloaded it at some point.. regardless removed and cleaned the pin and replaced the 15a fuse and lights work like a charm!


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Thanks for reporting your findings/repair, it may help someone else in the future.
 
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