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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2010 850 and had to replace the front right axle. I went with a Rhino from SuperAtv. The problem I'm having is I can't keep the axle in the differential. I can hear the retainer clip "click" into place and I can't move the inner axle housing at all when on the jack. Stays seated in differential. I put everything back together, rotate the tire/wheel, turn the wheel left and right, etc. Occasionally I can turn the tire left and right quickly and the axle will disengage from the differential. When I take it off the jack and back it out of the garage, it disengages from the differential and I can move it in and out by hand, every time. I have also been able to move it into the diff by hand and hear the click. Then it's tight again until I run the machine again. Go 20 feet and check again and it's loose again. SuperATV replaced the first axle that I had this problem with and I'm having it again with the second one. They have been helpful but I don't know if it's a problem with the axle or something else.

I noticed I had a worn out ball joint on the bottom arm so I bought a new one and replace that today. Very little play in the front right now and it didn't help at all.

I've researched this issue on the web but mainly found things about this happening on Rangers and on the rear. I still have the original axle on the other side. Maybe the new axle is a little long and is being pushed out by the other axle? Should there be a space inside the diff between the two axles? I can't tell if they are touching or not.

Any suggestions? I really need the machine running - duck season is getting ready to break loose!

Thanks,

CMDux
 

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How many miles you got on the machine?
Unless there's something wrong with the axle (too short?), it sounds like the output hub (#2) is worn out in the differential.
Are you cleaning the splines out good with a wire brush before installing the axle? If the old axle wallowed around for long with dirt and grit in there it has worn the splines and retaining ring groove so its not a tight fit anymore. The original axle on the other side is probably still rusted in place and very tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
1,339 miles on it. I checked the inside of the diff and it seems to be clean. Could the axle on the other side be knocking the new one out? Is there space between the two axles inside the diff or do they touch? This new axle only "plunges" on the motor side, not at the wheel. Is there an axle available that moves at both joints? Thanks for the response and any help.
 

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No there is not space in between the front axles. It's solid. For give be for not knowing the technical term. The outbput hubs of the diffs are only open on the outside for the cv axles to be installed. The rear diff is a different design. It which the hub your installing the cv axle into has space.

Have you tried lining up the original cv axle with the new cv axle to make sure they are the same length? The inner cv axle has a larger cup for the bearings / joint to move so that's why you notice it more. I've only disassembled inner boots not out boots so I don't know how the outter cv is designed.

You could also swap the snap ring from the original cv axle over to the new one and see if that helps?

But to me, it seems like the axle is a different length than your original unit so that's why you are having the problem.
 

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That's where I would start, checking if the Rhino is dimensionally the same as the OEM.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the replies. I did pull the old busted OEM axle out of the trash and grab the split ring off it and try it but it did the same thing. One thing SuperATV says about the Rhino is that on some 850s, due to variances in the hubs, light grinding on the hub may be necessary. I noticed some very slight wear on the paint on the new axle, just from spinning the tire after reassembly. Not sure if that would be causing the issue somehow? I don't think so but I'm pretty new to this stuff. This is the second new axle I've tried, both Rhinos. I'm not sure where the find the exact dimensions but I'll start looking for that today.

I think I'll end up pulling the other side and see if that is somehow related. Then swap the old axle from the left to the right and see if I still have the problem. That should tell me if it's the axle or something else.

If I end up needed a different new axle, and it can't be a Rhino, what should I go with?

Thank you again for the help.
 

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When you pulled it out of the trash did you check to see if they are the same length???
 

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Exactly compare the broken OEM to the Rhino, side by side. Although that might be difficult seeing that the original is broken.

Now fellas I'm having a hard time understanding what's happening here. The axle is fixed in place on the outboard/wheel side via the axle nut. On the inboard/diff side there is a snap ring that helps hold the axle in the diff. So on the inboard side the axle is supposed to have play or slide laterally to compensate for suspension travel and turning radius. Now is the axle completely pulling out of the diff or is it pulling out of the female splines of the diff or is it simply just pulling past the snap ring seat?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Couldn't really check the length of the old vs new since the old came apart completely at the wheel. The length of the splines and the slot for the split ring seemed to line up though. It is pulling out past the split-ring slot. Not all the way out by itself, but it will come all the way out if I pull on it by hand. Seems like it would be a matter of time before it just fell out of the diff if the split-ring is not seated in the groove. It seems like when the split ring is seated, I don't have any more play towards or away from the diff.

I'm having trouble finding the exact dimensions of the axles but I did notice an issue with the part numbers. On the SuperATV website, it says the axle I have is for 2009 (and newer) Sportsman XP EPS and replaces OEM Part Number 1332440. I just checked with a dealer and the OEM part number should be 1332873 or 1332838. The 1332440 part number refers to a RZR axle. I talked to SuperATV about that today too. They are checking on that now and I'm waiting on a call back. It could just be a typo on their website and I have the correct axle or maybe I don't have the right axle.

Thanks again for the help. Greatly appreciated.
 

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There are supposed to be washers on the outboard hub under the axle nut. Are you installing them? Just wondering if the washers were not there, and you tighten the nut down to tight it could pull on the axle assembly possibly putting enough pressure to pull it out of the diff? Just a thought...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Turns out I didn't have the right axle. SuperATV made it right for me. Not sure what axle I have now but it doesn't come out!
 

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four weeks to make it right?
Is that on you or them?
 

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Glad you got fixed up, but why the customer had to find the issue and the fact that they sent you the wrong part twice really sucks!
I guess these things happen, but they shouldn’t!
 

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Glad you got it. I knew something was not right. SuperATV is a good vender...in my experience they will make it right if they can. Mixups can happen to anyone.
A couple years ago, I was refurbishing a crashed 500 for a guy and kept getting OEM tie rods from a Polaris parts dealer with one being the correct length and the other 1/2" short. They all had the Polaris tag on them with the same part number!?! They immediately sent out replacements and ...you guessed it...same thing! After the second time I informed them of the problem and upon checking their stock bin with a tape measure in hand they had a whole bin of rods with the same part numbers but about half of them were 1/2" shorter than the others...LOL. I helped them and they helped me...told me to just keep the spares. It was a little aggravating but it wasn't really their fault and we got it worked out.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Sorry, more on me than them. It's been fixed a couple of weeks and I never came back on here to update everyone. I live fairly close to Super and they actually had me bring the machine in to them to check. They determined it was their issue and installed a different axle for me(athough I think I could do it with my eyes closed now). It ended up taking me four trips up there, from the time I picked up the first axle to getting the machine up and running but at least they stayed involved the whole time and tried to help me out.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Now I need to put a new battery in it and replace the brake pads. You guys have any suggestions on what and where to buy?
 

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Either a Walmart Maxx or AGM battery

Brakes- I’m a fan of whatever is rated high on amazon
 

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Now I need to put a new battery in it and replace the brake pads. You guys have any suggestions on what and where to buy?
DO NOT RUN race driven PADS!
The rivets came apart on me at H&M. They were installed the day before we left to head to H&M and when I got back, the squeaking I heard wasn’t dust in the pads as I was thinking, they were metal on metal. Couple hundred miles and in the garbage! Lucky I didn’t get killed in those mountains. I’d have joined the other memory crosses you see at the tops of those huge hills.
I’ve always had good luck with EBC pads.
 

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Can’t go wrong with EBC for any type of vehicle
 
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