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2011 polaris sportsman 500 no electrical

5K views 18 replies 6 participants last post by  lateburd 
#1 ·
I have a 2011 polaris sportsman 500 HO. Went out to start ot one day and just a single click from the solenoid. So I ordered a new one. Once it came in put the new one on, turned the key and have no power to anything. The battery is fully charged. There is power going to the starter but nothing else. Have checked and replaced all the fuses in the front. I am lost as what to do. Anyone have any suggestions?
 
#2 ·
The switched wires on the selonoid not the power wires from the battery or to the starter, have fusible links in them. I'm betting one blew.
 
#6 ·
Cross wired it? Even so, that does not normally burn out the fusible link. Not only that, there are two fusible links.

Start over - check the battery voltage - check battery voltage to various grounds (frame, engine, transmission etc) - if battery voltage to the various grounds is good, check battery voltage from the battery side of the solenoid to various grounds - if good so far, go to the fuse box and check voltage on both sides of the fuse with the fuse in place - two fuses should have power with the key switch off - also, the red wire at the rec/reg should have power and the circuit breaker should have power on both sides of it.

Get this far and I'll tell tor where or what to check next.
 
#11 ·
I've been looking for the fusible link and I havent found it. The only wires hooked to the solenoid are 2 positive and 1 negative. One positive and negative to the battery and the other positive to the starter.
Also when we put the new solenoid on and turned the key there was a pop back around the battery area.
 
#15 ·
So you have power on the red/wht wire and the wht/red wire when the switch is turned to the start position, but the solenoid does not close and the starter motor does not spin when the key is turned to the start position?

Sounds like either a bad battery, a bad connection to the battery on either or both the neg and pos side including the neg to frame point or you have a bad connection where the red/wht wire junctions with the other red/wht wires.
 
#19 ·
Sounds like a charging system problem or a key off draw - get a meter and check the voltage across the battery terminals both at idle and about 3000 RPM - should be appx 12v and dropping slowly at idle and be rising above 2500 RPM to a maximum of 14.8v - to check for a shorted stator without doing a full charging system diagnosis, if the meter is digital, switch the meter from DC to AC while connected to the battery and the engine running - DC on the AC scale will appear as random readings - if the stator is shorted to ground you may see a steady AC voltage reading across the battery - if there is a steady AC of any value, the stator may need replaced and the entire charging system fully checked.
 
#17 · (Edited)
Welcome to the forum.

What are we working on?
 
#18 · (Edited)
Sounds like it's not charging. What is the voltage at the battery when the engine is running at 3,000 RPM's?
 
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