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Yeah did all that. I'm down to the ecu. Either it's bad or something is telling the ecu not to send a signal. But when I start it the starter just clicks click click. But the battery isn't bad or weak neither is the starter.
 

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Can you go to the Dealer with your ECU and try it in a machine before you buy it (500.00) or decide to bypass that ground if dealer approves this method.
 

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Pretty sure they will want the whole machine and they will run through their own process. I still want to check a few sensors for resistance first.
 

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Not sure what else to do, Mike. Too bad you can't get your hands on an ECU to test if that's the problem.
I don't see how it can be another sensor, If the solenoid is clicking, it's getting the signal from the relay and ECU. I still thin there has to be a bad ground; but I think you have eliminated that probability. How many ground wires do you have connected at the battery? If you remove them all and check resistance between them, you should see good connections, as they are all grounds. And the positive leads at the battery; if you diconnect all of them and check for continuty from each to ground,you should see no continuity.

If it were my machine, I know what I would do, and that is to run that wire off the relay to a good ground and move on with life. I'm not recommending you do that, just saying what I would do.

Then again, the dealer may know exactly where the issue is, given their experience; and it may not cost you a pile of $$$.
 

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I hate rotate it to the dealer. I have never delt with them. I just seen to have a thing about dealerships. Always seemed to get screwed somehow. Lol. I think I am going to do what you said. Connect to a good ground, put the machine back together and move on. If it is the ecu, maybe something else will pop up along the way somewhere. Seems like when those thing go bad on equipment it's like cancer. It will eventually spread.
 

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Found out today Polaris will bench flash an ECU if you take it in just saying! 12.8 volts 30amp hour after two days checked my volts at 12.70 must be the clock and if ECU has a keep memory alive for codes then ok with this. Mike why not leave the plastic fender body off take it like this to dealer have them give you a printed copy of the recent history of events or inactive codes should take 5 minuets my dealer said 25 bucks.Then see if you have any codes related to click click if no codes reading open/short then its could be a mechanical problem which leaves key switch/relays/starter I know you all ready checked those This could be important are you mike going to switch this ground temporary? Why? just thinking there could be a drain on your battery with this temporary ground so check battery with key off then key on with temporary ground on then off. My dealer says my problem could be chassis relay im wondering if I should rewire all my relays to the large 4 prong ford relays like the new harness you bought. I don't submarine my ATV so I should not have water problem with starter (it works on the bench) looking into handle bar brake switch will let you know what I find.
 

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I’ve seen this problem a few times, twice on my 2014 850 touring and 1 time on a 2014 550. Disconnect the negative battery terminal for ten minutes, reinstall and it’s fixed.
 

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I had the battery out over night twice. Still no fix. Taking it to the dealer for a scan and reflash later this week. Hope they have an answer.
 

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Hope they get your particular problem sorted out, Mike.
As for disconnecting and reconnting the battery --- lots of guys report having a "click" issue and waiting some period time (minutes) and then having success with starting. Think that is a bad relay issue. Seems there a few different things that can cause the problem.
 

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My update on this problem is I cant get my machine to do the turn the key switch and nothing happens the ECU( BOSCH) sends out a ground signal to the starter relay to complete the circuit if all switch's and sensors allow it. The ECU stores inactive codes that are stored in the history and the intermittent faults too. OFF to see the wizard at Polaris at the end of this week I'm not going to swap out parts with the dealer and hope that its a fix now if a quick flash to the ECU fix's this then they will have to show me that there has been a TSB to address this then I ok with it. Talk later cheers
 

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Sounds like you have the exact problem as me. The ecu is not sending a good ground signal. I am also planning on taking mine to the dealer late in the week. Hopefully we both get to the bottom of this.
 

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We'll mine is fixed. For now. I had the battery out over the weekend. Really I just forgot I had taken it out to charge it with a trickle charger. Now it works fine. So I'm not sure what the deal was.
 

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Keep the trickle charger connected.
 

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I'm now back in this predicament.
2012 850
updated relay (fixed it last time)
30AH battery - tender says 100%
Turn key and gauge and eps power up like norm single click of the relay.
Jump with a screwdriver and it fires up
Brand new starter


from reading I will check the main ground (think i had it apart before) and get the battery tested, any other ideas?

PS there is a eps relay kit available too
 

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Come to find out I had a bad battery. The signal that the computer sends to the start relay is a ground. I did an ohm test and found resistance between the computer and the relay, but no where else. I had originally bought a new battery from auto zone. Bad idea. Spend the money and get a good battery.
 

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4 years and 30 pages later and Polaris is still leaving people stranded with the no-start issue!

Shame on Polaris.

All my local Polaris dealers have closed. 3 I can think of.
 
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