Anyone?

 

Latebird is the electrical guru. If it is electrical, he can figure it out. PM him is the best answer I have for you.

D

 

Ohm the diff, 25ohm ish should do you!! Test the plug from the harness with the switch open and closed. Open you should 0vdc closed you should have 12vdc.

 

I get 12 volts no matter where the switch is

 

Unfortunately it's not as simple as a switch - it' all electronic - if the wiring is the nightmare you describe it's probably the reason the DA who owned it got rid of it as he was not willing to have it repaired by someone with the knowledge and tools to do it.

First the wiring needs to be corrected and then the ECU diagnosed - the ECU may be faulty or just need reprogramming, but 12v is present on the red/grn wire as long as there is a fuse in the DRIVE location - when the ECU gets a signal from the AWD switch, then the ECU connects the AWD coil to ground via the brn/wht wire on pin 17 of the ECU.

The only option the owner has is to disconnect the battery and hold the pos and neg cables together for about 20 seconds (or more) then reconnect the battery. If the ECU was simply confused by a inappropriate wiring connection, it may clear the fault (like rebooting a computer) and resume normal operation. If not it will have to go to a dealer with the computer and software to diagnose and rectify the problem.

 

This is probably the best answer I've gotten through a week of searching

 

Since im getting 12v at the prong i guess i can cross out a broke wire?

Could the Bn/Wt wire have an issue?

 

You need to reread latebird's post. He's talking about the BATTERY CABLES being disconnected and touched together to try and clear any errors in the ECU's memory.

If the wiring has been monkeyed with and you have power to the AWD coil all the time, I'd guess its been jumpered intentionally to keep AWD activated all the time because some other part of the system wasn't working right.
Are there any problems with the display? The speedo? The gear position?

 

I fully get that. Now I'm back tracking to the wire prong. Something just has me thinking the wires are cut or hacked up like you said.

The white ground wire on the prong. Therotically I could put my multimeter red lead on the positive terminall on the battery and my negitive lead on the white wire leaving the diff . With the key off on the bike I should have no voltage, correct? Since the ECU grounds the circuit. Then I could see if something tied in and grounded to the frame.

Can some confirm?

Thanks guys

 

Speedo works. Gearshift works. Never says awd even though I know it's in.

 

Not talking about the gear shift... the gear position indicator on the display?
I'm just trying to figure out if anything is obvious as to WHY it may have been hacked up

latebird can walk you through testing better than I can

520207 "4" ... Hmm, "AWD control... Driver circuit grounded". I suspicion a wiring or switch problem

 

Absolutely agree wiring or switch issue. I have 12 volts to the diff but the ground wire is not being cycled like it should.

 

To get to the dirty part - get you meter out and make these checks

I'm using the wiring diagram:

Not

or

The grey wire (E246 on the schematic) originates at pin 28 of the ECU (228 on the drawing)

It goes directly to the AWD switch

When the switch is in the 4x4 position, it connects grey to brown wire GAPB (brown is ground) - there are many grounds.
When the grey wire is grounded it signals the ECU to connect ground to the AWD coil in the front gearcase

The magnet coil in the gearcase has 12v to it whenever the DRIVE fuse is installed and in good condition - wire FDA on pin 23 of the fuse block is the output side of the DRIVE fuse (drive fuse gets it's power from the white wire RCC on pin 19)

Wire FDA goes to SPLICE, DRIVE

Wire FDD goes to the AWD coil

and wire E217 goes to pin 27 of the ECU - when the ECU decides the AWD coil should be grounded (AWD switch is in the 4x4 position, it's not in reverse, the engine speed is below a certain RPM prior to engagement or the override button is held closed.

That's something I kinda overlooked - if pin 11 of the ECU is grounded (wire E211 is connected to GABJ when the override button is pushed) this signals the ECU to connect wire E217 to ground) - if wire E211 is shorted to ground or the override button has stuck, then the AWD may be active all the time.

You can test for this by unplugging the connector at the LH switch checking continuity of the switch between pins B and C - continuity when the button is pushed and none when not pushed. If the button is working, unplug the ECU and check continuity of wire E211 to ground. If the gry/org wire E211 has continuity to ground at the ECU plug, then there is a short in the wire to ground and the AWD would be on whenever the ECU has power.

I hope this helps you before it goes to the dealer, but as I said previously - straighten out the wiring first. Remove any accessory connections the monkey who owned it prior to you made and reconnect them properly after you have things working correctly.

 

Great analysis LB!! He should get a shop manual.

 

I took the plug off the diff and focused on the connector leading to the bike, I put my lead on the ground prong, and one lead on the frame. With the key OFF I have continuity. I just don't know if this is normal.

 

So you checked the brn/wht wire of the wiring harness to ground with the key off? No that's not normal - it indicates a problem with the ECU

 

Yes, The harness plug that goes to the diff. I tested the white/brn to the frame and got continuity. with key off. Its grounded.

 

That's still not normal - it indicates a short in the electromagnet coil - it should also show continuity on the grey wire to ground also.

 

What electromagnetic coil are you referring to? Or is this a dealer ecu thing at this point

 

#2 is the cover with the electromagnet coil installed - the coil should have continuity with out either wire being connected to ground. It has nothing to do with the ECU from this standpoint. It's a difference in the test points - if you test the wire coming out of the differential, then it's a differential issue - if you test the chassis wiring side, then it's a ECU issue.

 

I tested the chassis wiring side

 

Then it's an ECU issue and it needs to be diagnosed by a dealer with the software and computer to connect to it.

 

Can i ask how the ECU grounds the circuit with zero power to it?

 

I don't quite under stand the question; if you are reading continuity on the ECU pin that is grounding the Hilliard coil with the key turned off, that could be normal, but if you get continuity with the key on and no AWD input to the ECU, then the ECU has failed and is keeping the AWD on all the time (AWD switch off (no input to the ECU) AWD switch on (input to the ECU). It's all electronic logic (electronic switching) instead of mechanical logic (relay switching). I hope I'm explaining this so you can understand it. If not, let me know and I will PM you my phone number as I might explain it better verbally instead of texting.