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Got a 2006 Sportsman 700 and the 4wd kicks in harshly when you get on the gas in 2wd. It will stay in 2wd fine if putting around but if the tires spin over or if you get on it hard it will kick in. This is all done with switch in 2wd position. If in Awd position it stays in fine and doesn't kick out. Pretty good with a wrench but new to a Polaris and have never broken down the front end of one of these so any help would be great. Thanks!
 

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Might need a fluid change in the front diff. Drain overnight if possible and refill with the Polaris diff fluid.
 

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My 04 sportsmans 500 is doing the exact same thing. Has always done it since I can remember, Bought it new. Recently changed the fluid. Is there something more I can do or what is going on. Thanks in advace for the help.
 

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I've done lots of research on the awd system for ym 01 scrambler 500. Your problem may be with the hub coil gap or the armiture plate being magnetized. The awd system kicks in when the rear wheels slip and if the armiture plate is magnitized or damaged it could cause it o kick in when it should not be engaging. When you pull the front hub bolt off pull the bearing out then slide the hub off. On the shaft will be another bearing a spacer and the roller cage. behind the roller cage is the armiture plate, it should have 3 raised nothes on it that engage into the roller cage. Inspect the armiture plate and make sure it is not damaged. Hold it next to a piece of metal and feel for any magnetism. even slight pull could cause it to engage. The armiture plates are only 6-8 bucks each. pulling the front end appart can seem a bit overwhelming at first but is about moderate in difficulty. good luck, I hope you get it worked out.
 

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It turns out one of the output seals on front diff had a small leak. It allowed water and mud to get in and destroyed all the bearing in front end and also cracked the roll cage. Took apart and ordered a front end kit from local auto parts store and the roll cage and rollers from local John Deere dealer. In all it cost around $150 to rebuild the diff and it works like a charm now. Thanks for the help on this one guys!
 

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Well drained oil in diff. (no signs of wear oil was dark but not milky, and there was no metal or plastic shavings) added new oil and it still stays in AWD forward and reverse! From what I understand when the switch is in AWD there should be 12V going to the Diff. and when it is in 2X4 there should be 0V, is this correct?
 

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That is correct, but the hub coil is not the problem if it stays in AWD all the time. Since it stays in AWD in the 2WD setting then that means the electromagnet is getting power. I wouldn't think that the power would stay on it there was an issue with the switch. Pull the hubs off and check out the roll cage, armature plate et. Once you get the center cap off the hub it is one bolt and an outer bearings then the hub it will slide off exposing the roller cage, armature plate, spacer and inner hub bearing. Could also be the hub coil gap which should be no greater than .025 MM from the outer sleave to the inner, but gap issues usually make the AWD NOT work.
 

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Also, make sure the rollers move freely in the roller cage and the garter spring that holds them in the roller cage is not streached out. I had some issue with the roller cage on mine where the rollers did not move freely in two of the six roller cage opening. It did not have any crack so I took my time and used a set of needle nose pliers when closed to insert between the roller cage openings and fixed it. I also pul a new garter spring on which is about $10-$13. The Polaris shop manuals say tho use the garter spring tool because if the spring gets streached out at all it will cause eratic AWD engagement. You don't need this tool, I made one myself. Get a kids sippy cup (the short one), you can get them at wall mart for a couple of bucks if you don't have kids. Put the cup over the roller cage and cut the cup in half where the cup connects to the roller cage. Now just slide spring over the end of the cup into place.
I just took mine out yesterday after replacing the whole front left side (strut, all bearing, garter spring fixed roller cage, armature plate, rebuilt the cv joint, new boot, new hub oil) and it worked great, no problems with AWD at all. Just had a close call with the front end of a Jeep...need to bleed my brakes a bit more!
 

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Its rare, but I've heard the armature plate can become magnetized and try to stay in 4wd all the time....assuming your cage is in good shape...I just skimmed the other reply's, did u unplug the connector going to the diff????
 
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