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Discussion Starter #1
Hey All,

First post here and looking for some help from the team. I have an interesting ignition problem with my 2008 500 HO, EFI that I was hoping someone else has seen to help guide me to the right area.
Symptoms:
- no hot from ignition switch to starter (RD/WT) on switch
- pull starter works every time
- battery seems fine, full lights, speedo, winch operate fine
- no light dim whatsoever using the key, no sound, no nothing
- fuel pump relay works, fan relay works - all good
- hand controls operating normal, on/off, reverse override, 4WD etc, aftermarket heated grips all fine
- trasmission selections working (maintenance mode ohm for each gear within tolerance from the manual)
- all fuses good

Here's the background. Did some plowing here in Colorado this winter and in March went out to start and nothing from the key but pull started just fine. Finished the job, parked and started with key just fine (intermittent electrical). Past few months have made it a hard failure now so I ohmed out and replaced the ignition switch from friends machine last week and same issue - no key switch but pull started fine. So... dug into the pod looking for bad grounds, hots etc, pulled the ECM, relays, lights, instrument panel and found the high beam (Yellow and Brown) were cut through so I isolated them and taped everything up. When I plugged everything back together it worked great... till I replaced the top of the pod back on... so back off everything came without any luck - now I'm in the same place - everything works just fine when pull started and the ignition switch still doesn't patch the hot out to the starter... ugg!
Anybody seen something similar? I have a repair manual and not seeing anything jumping out as a cause. If anyone has a direction to follow, please let me know. I'm afraid the dealer will have me replace one piece at a time until THEY find what's really wrong so I've reached out to you all for some help!!!

THanks in advance for any advice the team can provide - oh, did I mention I hate intermittent electrical problems? :)

SteveG
 

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Check ur main fuse its a 20 amp fuse

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk
 

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Welcome to the board.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi All,

Anyone out there have any clues on where to proceed? Same-ole story this weekend, pull started just fine, rode great - no other issues other than the key switch start.
Anyone know where I can half-slit this into a few key pieces?

Thanks in advance for any advice the forum may have going forward.

Steve
 

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Check the starter solenoid to see if it is getting power/start signal. If the key is telling the solenoid to kick on then measure output and see if it is trying to tell the starter to turn.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hey Joey,

Thanks for the reply. I will check the solenoid tomorrow but I don't expect it's getting 12V from the ignition switch. When I take a trouble light to the ignition, I see hot on yellow (main from fuse), then hot on red, Bk/Rd when turning the key ON (going to on off switch left handle bar etc), but don't see hot coming out of the ignition switch to the solenoid on WT/RD. That's why I thought it was the switch itself originally.
Again, thanks for the post - will working my way from the switch this weekend...
ug!

STeve
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Just out of curiosity, would it damage anything to jump the hot at the switch across the ignition to the wt/rd that goes to the solenoid? The wiring diagram shows direct connection from the switch to the solenoid with what I presume is a ECU generated ground to the other side of the solenoid??

I just don't see how a bad ground at the switch would cause this since all other power turns on with first turn, speedo, fuel pump, fan (once warm), lights etc. just not the starter. Looks like the grounds at the switch come from the two splices (Frame and case).
 

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The 20amp "main fuse" is for your ignition and starter. I believe red for starter and yellow for ignition. Have u removed your fuse box and made sure the connections to your fuse box arent all corroded or pinched? Especially the red wire

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Discussion Starter #10
Have not pulled the fuse panel yet but will try that tomorrow night. I guess my thoughts were since everything else was working but the key swtich it wouldn't be main fuses or buses but I will definitely check that as well!

thanks!

Steve
 

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Broken wires around steering stem, take front plastic off, take wires out of harness from ign switch back, they get wiring too tight around stem, then it breaks when you turn, have fixes 3 others same machine as yours.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Russ (and all on forum),

Thanks man - nailed it. Main feed and solenoid wires from the switch, as well as left hand controls (on/off) were nearly severed at the steering column. I'm really surprised how tight the harness is but this is definitely something that will eventually happen to just about anyone that turns hard in either direction. Releasing some of the the harness tie-downs will hopefully alleviate some of the stress in the future.

Thanks to all who responded - first time on the forum and definitely appreciate the direction!!

Steve
 

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Awesome dude so happy so got it fixed

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