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Discussion Starter #1
My 2016 570 Sportsman with 1600 miles is burning oil. I've got a buddy looking at it to see what's causing it. He used to race ATVs and own his own atv repair shop. If he gets back with me to tell me the rings are shot. What aftermarket company is recommended for rings or potential full top end kit if the cylinder is shot too?

It smokes blue from the time it's started until you shut it off, under acceleration or sitting and idling.

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Seems early to be needing a rebuild, did you warm it up properly before you drive it? Starting it and not giving it a couple minutes to get some temp into it tends to cause this.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I purchased it in March and haven't even put a couple tanks of fuel through it. I don't know how it was ran before me. The ATV is in real good shape, just started smoking a couple weeks ago.
 

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I purchased it in March and haven't even put a tank of fuel through it. I don't know how it was ran before me. It just started doing it a couple weeks ago.
Oh dear. That sucks. That is the most common cause of ring wear, people just flash them up throw it in gear and go, it's critical to let them idle for a couple minutes in the summer, and ~5 in the winter. Even says in the manual: "Allow engine to warm for several minutes or extreme engine damage will occur"
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The times I've used it I ran it for over an hour spraying weeds around our 3 acres and I let it warm up regardless. They weren't strenuous runs either, creeping around the woods in low range spraying. The original owners were dairy farmers, unsure of how they rode it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The oil is in the safe zone on the dipstick, it's not all the way full due to it burning it. I assume the viscosity is correct, I bought it from a dealer and it was serviced in February right before I bought it in March.
 

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19’ 850SP Camo. MtAiry Maryland
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I would do a compression test and change the oil myself. But it’s likely your mechanic friend will do that, and get you a good diagnosis.
 

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Any chance the oil filter is foam and over oiled? Just trying the cheap/easy ideas first. I haven't seen anyone complain of the 570 burning oil on this board since I started visiting it a year ago.
 

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Depending on the PO's use and maintenance, the oil ring could be worn out from incorrect oil or infrequent oil changes which leaves the compression rings perfect and the oil ring shot. Since the oil level changes and it's obviously burning oil, a top end rebuild is in order. Have the mechanic who works on it measure the taper of the cylinder, the ring end gap at both the top and bottom of the cylinder and inspect the cylinder plating for damage - the cylinder can be re-plated if needed or the cylinder can be replaced - any available piston and ring set is as good as another. A quality repair followed by a proper break-in, use of a quality oil, with frequent oil changes and avoidance of extended idling and low speed operation are key to engine longevity. It's not a tractor, it's a recreational vehicle intended for recreational use. It's not made for plowing snow, pulling a plow or lawn mower. Of course these 'accessories' are offered, but may not be practical. You could mount a 5th wheel to the top of a car and pull a semi trailer. It is not made for the job, but it can be done. Just because it can be done does not make it practical or safe.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the replies, I'm waiting to hear back from him. I'll follow up with you all from what I find out. As for the filter, it's a K&N, that's what the dealer put on it when serviced.
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I'm sure I'm not the only one on this forum with this opinion; K&N filters are 'PERFORMANCE' filters - They are expensive and they flow more air by their low restriction filter media - low restriction means less filtration - the K&N flows more air and more dirt - it filters out the large particles while smaller ones pass through. K&N will argue that their filters are at least as good as OEM when oiled and installed properly (this is the qualifier) - K&N filters require frequent servicing (cleaning and oiling) and can be easily damaged by aggressive cleaning - most K&N filter owners do not clean the filters often enough and few re-oil them properly - they can be over and under oiled and the oil has to be K&N filter oil or all bets are off. If you need the performance gain they offer because you are racing, you will have more than one - one in the vehicle and spares already cleaned, oiled and ready for use (it's a cost of racing). Also, you will accept the accelerated wear of the piston rings and cylinder walls due to dirt inclusion with the incoming air as it is 'a cost of racing'.

I'm NOT saying the K&N is the cause of your problem, but it is possibly a contributing factor - just something to consider changing if you prefer longevity over performance. Myself: I race and I use OEM, UNI and TwinAir foam filters. I have on in the vehicle and at least two spares in zip lock bags on forms (or cages) ready for a quick change if needed. Sometimes the conditions are very dusty and a filter change will be necessitated during the course of a two hour off road race. Other races may be in raining or snow covered conditions and no filter change will be needed. And of course if the filter is not in good condition, not properly oiled (too much or too little) it will either be too restrictive to air flow reducing high RPM performance or it will allow an excessive amount of fine dirt particles to pass through increasing wear of internal parts or not installed properly essentially allowing unfiltered air to enter the engine it can be the cause of premature engine wear and failure.

I rebuilt a Yamaha YZ100 for a kid who was overly excited to race the upcoming weekend - I bored the cylinder, installed a new Wiseco piston and rings and sent him home - he brought the bike back the following week and said it wouldn't start. He said it died near the end of the race and would not restart. He had to push it across the finish line - said he installed a new spark plug, was using premium fuel and Klotz Benol mixed at 24 to 1, but I noticed the carb had a few layers of old nylon pantyhose hose clamped on in place of an air filter. He explained his air filter was junk and he wanted to race, so the pantyhose was the air filter.

His engine had no compression - upon disassembly I discovered the rings were paper thin on one side and the piston had about .010 clearance - just 3 days prior, the clearance was set at.0025 - in the course of about 1 hour of racing, the engine ingested enough grit to completely wear out the rings and cylinder - I'm sure it didn't improve the clearance of the rod and main bearings, but they are ball and roller, so the damage was not extensive. After another bore and piston, the kid learned the importance of a good air filter. He got a new filter, installed the air box and assured a good seal on the joints - it was the last time I had to rebuild the engine for him on that bike. He moved up to a 125, then a 250, but he made sure his air filter was clean, oiled and installed properly on each of them and never had to push his bike over the finish line again.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Sorry, must have got my wires crossed somewhere. The air filter appears to be OEM with the mesh outer layer, the oil filter is a K&N filter. They were both on the ATV when I got it.
This is what it looked like when I got it.
 

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I've had excellent experience with Namura kits. Reasonably priced, great quality and they have perform well in everything I've used them in from hard raced MX bikes to old farmer's utility work machines.
I agree with Latebird on the air filter deal. A good quality and well-sealed air filter is probably the MOST important single item on ANY dirt machine. Without that, none of the rest of the parts will matter very soon!
 

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Sorry, must have got my wires crossed somewhere. The air filter appears to be OEM with the mesh outer layer, the oil filter is a K&N filter. They were both on the ATV when I got it.
This is what it looked like when I got it.
Yep - that's an OEM filter set up - the K&N filter is no problem - K&N oil filters are made by HiFlow (uses the same numbering system too - K&N198 is HF198

I have used the Namura kits extensively also - nice thing is you get the gasket set with Namura and it is a separate purchase with Vertex, J&E, Shindy, Polaris, ProX, Wiseco and most other suppliers. Wiseco does offer a TE kit with gaskets, but at a much higher cost.
 
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