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Discussion Starter #1
My rectifier died over memorial day weekend. We had a multi day camping/riding trip and it made it till Sunday... My son took it out thru the muddiest trail around, came back and parked it, battery was totally dead the next day.

I put a 8A charger on the battery and noticed it was pulling max amps for hours. I disconnected the battery from the terminal block under the front storage area and charged the battery directly and it took a couple hrs to charge up. This made me realize that something was draining the battery.

Once I got home, I traced the wires for the Rectifier/Regulator and performed a test. I removed the battery from the machine and charged it. I connected the + lead from the rectifier to the battery +. I connected the - lead from the rectifer to the + lead on my digital voltmer. The - lead of my DVM was connected to the battery - terminal. Meter was set to DC Amps. The R/R was pulling over 1A. This tells me a diode has shorted out. The test was performed with the stator disconnected from the R/R. (Big plug w/3 yellow wires)

Just FY, the R/R is mounted on the right side, just behind the grill, near the radiator. 3 yellow wires coming off go to the stator and 2 black wires go to the terminal block under the front storage compartment.

Before buying parts, I decided to check the stator. You need to put the meter on Ohms. Check continuity between all the yellow wires. It should be pretty low (less than 1 ohm) and all readings should be very close to each other. Check for continuity from each yellow wire to ground. It should be 0 or infinite. There should be no continuity there. You can also start the machine and check for AC volts on the yellow wires. Voltage will increase with RPM. At idle, you should see about 20 VAC, about 50 VAC at 3K RPM and 80 VAC at 5K RPM. My stator checked out, no issues.

Check you stator to R/R plug. Mine had issues. The stator plug is designed with a built in retainer/pin to snap the plug into the frame to keep it from moving around. My pin was sheared off. The plug had been bouncing around for a long time. So long in fact, that the plug had worn thru in one spot, and ripped the seal. This allowed the plug to get filled up with mud and water. I believe this is the cause of my R/R short. A simple wire tie would have prevented the cost of a R/R replacement.

So, I'm in need of a new seal for the stator plug. A new R/R. And, a new male plug body for the R/R. I searched around for different options. There are plenty of cheap R/R from RM stator, or Ricky Stator, Rick's Electronics, and a bunch of no name vendors. I've heard good things about Rick's. I've heard bad about RM and Ricky. I looked at the fiche to see what OEM cost. It was over $200 for a direct replacement. Then, I decided to look at the stator for a 2019 model. It was $100. Thats better. The issue is, it takes a different wiring harness than my 2015. The harness was around $130. I decided to buy the plugs I need and make my own harness. I have the proper crimpers and wire to do so. I just need to buy connectors.

If you're looking for good pricing on OEM type connectors, check out Motorcycle Terminals, Connectors, and Wiring Accessories
I've purchased quite a bit from them in the past and they have OEM connectors, not cheap knock offs, for reasonable prices. I bout a metri pack 630 for the stator plug ( I think thats what it is, I'll find out for sure when it gets here). I bought a Furukawa QLW connector set for the R/R plugs, and I boug a Metri Pack ATC fuse holder. I plan to skip the terminal block and wire the R/R directly to the battery with an inline fuse.

Once all the parts come in, I'll add some photos of my findings.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
All the parts came in and I finally had a chance to work on the quad.

Connected the stator and tested the regulator output and get NOTHING.

The regulator is bad out of the box. The stator puts our 20 some volts at idle and 60 some at mid throttle, and no DCV output. Checked with another meter, same result. Hopefully it can be exchanged.

I ended up having to replace the body of the stator plug, it was damaged drom rubbing the frame.

I added an in-line fuse in the new harness on the + wire between regulator and battery.

 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Tested the new R/R on a buddies 570. He has the newer setup installed so just moving around a couple plugs allowed us to do so.

Same result. No out voltage. Hoping they exchange it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Learn from my mistake. My brand new R/R that I assumed was bad, works perfectly. When I was testing it, I had it plugged into the stator but, I did not have it hooked up to the battery. I was testing for voltage direct at the R/R and it wasn't putting anything out. Once connected to a battery, it works as it should. When testing the charging system, you should have a fully charged battery installed. I forgot that rule.

I have a 2015 570 but, I installed a OEM R/R that fits the 2019/2020 570. OEM part # 4016868. $103.00 from Partzilla.
This new rectifier comes with a backing plate. It bolts directly in place of the old unit.

This new rectifier requires a wiring harness to be purchased separately. OEM part# 2414818. $129.00 from Partzilla.
I decided to build my own vs. buy. To build your own, you need to have the proper crimp tools for Metri-pack connectors. The same crimper works well enough on the R/R connectors too. You need a Metri-pack 630 connector for the stator. And, you need a set of QLW-250 connectors to connect to the R/R. Then, some ring terminals to connect to the battery, #10AWG wire, heat shrink, and I added an inline fuse. I had the tooling, the wires, heat shrink, fuse, etc... Just had to buy the specific connectors so, I saved about $100 by building my own wiring harness.

You can use your old stator to R/R wires as a measuring template for the new harness.

I truly believe the cause of my R/R failure is due to water entering the stator connector. The plug was filled with water and mud. It entered the plug due to physical damage due to the plug rubbing on the frame. It is supposed to held into the frame with a clip but, the clip broke and rubbed on the frame for a long time. I added a piece of rubber to the frame and wire tied the new connector in place to prevent it from happening again.
 
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