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I am new to the forum and hope I'm in the right area but have been going slowly nuts trying to figure this one out. Dealers (two) haven't been any help either. Here goes: I ride my 2005 EFI 700 sportsman hunting deer mainly in higher elevations in Utah, cooler temperatures (10-50 degrees) and every once in a while it stops responding to the throttle and acts like it is chocking out and will only spit and sputter as long as you stay away from the throttle, touch that and it will die. Wait 2-3 minutes and it starts right up and runs like a champ for the rest of the day. Happens almost every day. My guess would have been the ECU and each of the polaris dealers have checked the serial number and tell me it has the new ECU in it and when they run the diagnostics on it, it checks fine. Doesn't stay broken for more than a couple minutes so doesn't pop a code for them. I have even left it for them to ride and it won't fail when they exercise it. My fear is that one day, along way from my camp, this thing is going to fail permanently and I'll have a very long walk ahead of me. Any ideas? I hate to replace the ECU if it could be something else, as they are not returnable. Thx in advance for your help!!!! Dave
 

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Welcome to the board from Washington!
 

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id say it sounds like maybe the fuel pump. but im not shure. just a quess.
 

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in responce to 700

I am new to the forum and hope I'm in the right area but have been going slowly nuts trying to figure this one out. Dealers (two) haven't been any help either. Here goes: I ride my 2005 EFI 700 sportsman hunting deer mainly in higher elevations in Utah, cooler temperatures (10-50 degrees) and every once in a while it stops responding to the throttle and acts like it is chocking out and will only spit and sputter as long as you stay away from the throttle, touch that and it will die. Wait 2-3 minutes and it starts right up and runs like a champ for the rest of the day. Happens almost every day. My guess would have been the ECU and each of the polaris dealers have checked the serial number and tell me it has the new ECU in it and when they run the diagnostics on it, it checks fine. Doesn't stay broken for more than a couple minutes so doesn't pop a code for them. I have even left it for them to ride and it won't fail when they exercise it. My fear is that one day, along way from my camp, this thing is going to fail permanently and I'll have a very long walk ahead of me. Any ideas? I hate to replace the ECU if it could be something else, as they are not returnable. Thx in advance for your help!!!! Dave
Hey did any one ot those guys check the throttle cable adjustment? You know that it sounds like at a little bit of throttle you hit the sweet spot and it wan't to shutdown on you because if there is any slack at all in that cable when you release the throttle and stays hung up a little bit it will do that beleive I live in Northern Ontario Canada. Have had this happen to me before and forsure it's not going to happen at the dealer because it sat in the shop overnight in the heated garage.
 

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I have the same year/model EFI version. I am replacing the pump today and they certainly aren't cheap. The fuel pressure is supposed to be 39lbs +/- 3lbs. Mine was shooting up to 70-80lbs. So hoping this is the problem since I haven't put the new pump in yet.
 

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If it was cold, it started up and ran fine. But after it got hot, it started missing and sputtering and acted like it was running on one cylinder. If I kept it going, it eventually died. I had to wait for it to cool for it to run right again.
 

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Interesting...........but mine will start up and run fine after only a couple minutes and then run the rest of the day without any other problems. May even go a couple days without it happening again. Same thing????? Not sure.
 

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Mine did that when it first started acting up, which was in the winter. It would start sputtering, I would turn it off, and then start it back up and it was fine. I purchased a fuel injection gauge from Harbor Freight for about $15. This is cheap and a simple way to check your fuel pressure. My tank is here now and I am going to install it now. Hope it solves the problem.
 

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I put the new tank in with the new fuel pump. Boy what a difference. The pump is very quiet now. The old one was very noisy. The fuel pressure is about 44lbs and holds steady. I assumed the regulator in my old one went bad since the fuel pressure rose to 70-80lbs. I drove it around last night and I also noticed an increase in performance or get up and go. I didn't drive around too much, but so far everything is running great.

Another story. I bought a used 2006 Sportsman 450 last night for the wife. I paid 3k for it. It would not start with the key, but started right up with the recoil on first pull. The guy said it is the battery. My short analysis of it when I got home is that the battery is fine, I think the starter is bad. It clicks at the solenoid and I am getting 12+ voltage to the starter, but nothing from the starter. I am going to take it out tonight and see if I can get the starter to work; otherwise I need a new starter. One other thing I found bad on it too is the fan. I think the bearing is shot in the fan. Oh well, hope I still got a good deal. I haven't checked the prices on those parts yet.
 

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I just had the same problem on my 07 Sportsman 500(clicking at the solenoid but not starting)and it ended up being the starter wire on the starter was so loose that the nut came off when I pulled the boot off.The only thing that held it on was the boot.
 

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The nut is tight, but it is pretty dirty. I am getting power to it becuase I put the voltmeter on the connection and am getting 12+ volts when I turn the ignition on. So first think I am going to do is to take the cable off and clean it up and see if I can jump it to get the starter to turn. If not, I will take it apart and clean it up. Lastly a starter rebuild kit if necessary. Now the fan I see is about $200. Not sure if I can repair that without buying a new one.
 

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Parts cost way too much for these things.If it is the starter,it may be the bendix.I hope you plan on doing it yourself or take it to a auto place that rebuilds them.I asked a dealer how much a new starter was and I just about sheet myself when they said $350 bucks.A bendix is about probably around 40-50 bucks maybe a little more or less depending on where you get it.
 

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Tell me about the cost of parts. I just spent $450 plus more on diagnosis for my 700 EFI. I replaced the fuel injection pump.
 

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Just the efi pump was $450? Good gravy are these things made by Ferrari or Porsche or something and we just dont know it? :wtf1:
 

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You can't just buy the pump. You have to buy the whole tank with the pump installed. Most places it is almost $500, but I found it for $409 plus shipping.
 

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Parts cost way too much for these things.If it is the starter,it may be the bendix.I hope you plan on doing it yourself or take it to a auto place that rebuilds them.I asked a dealer how much a new starter was and I just about sheet myself when they said $350 bucks.A bendix is about probably around 40-50 bucks maybe a little more or less depending on where you get it.
I haven't found one for less than $104. I'll probably do a rebuild on mine, but I don't know if it is 2 or 4 brush starter.
 

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I saw some for $99 but not sure where it was.I think the one from mfg has a 6 month warranty and thats probably the normal warranty period.
 
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