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Discussion Starter #1
recently my 800 Sportsman EFI began creeping. I thought it was a belt issue so I replaced it with a new one. No luck. It seems that the secondary clutch is grabbing the belt while in idle causing the belt to spin all the time. I thought the belt should be flush with the top of clutch similar to a snowmobile. It sits about 1/8 to 1/4" above it.

There's no manual adjustment for it. I called the dealer and there's no shim kit either. He said to take it apart to see if any washers/rollers are wore out. Sounds good in theory but I don't have the tools for that. I don't think the primary is the issue. Should i just look to get a good used secondary clutch?

any suggestions? It only has 600 miles and 80 hours on it.

thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #5
2005. Also, when I had it idling and holding hand brake there was squealing coming from the belt on the drive clutch. It was actually starting to smoke. This is something that happened right before it got stuck in reverse.

The only way I can shift now is to have bike off, turn driven clutch manually, start it up and shift. I would have to do this every time to shift gears.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
any idea how to take drive clutch apart to get to bushings? Hate messing around with something spring loaded.

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Discussion Starter #10
It appears I need a clutch puller to get the clutch off. Do I have to get one from a dealer? Or can you buy an aftermarket somewhere?

 

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Discussion Starter #16
I forgot to mark spring cover when I removed it. Are there factory markings I can use to align it back up?
 

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I would check your clutch alignment. I just had the exact same problem on my 2005 Sportsman 800. It was creeping when in gear and was very hard to shift. I noticed that the belt was riding on the outer half of the front sheave. Once i got it aligned properly it stopped creeping and is very easy to shift now.
 

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OK I'm late to the party.. Sorry.

First off the secondary is SUPOSED TO GRAB all the time... Belt CANNOT SPIN/move unless PRIMARY is holding it and at idle it should be free.

Creaping is usually an alignment or engagement issue with primary, but shifting can be misadjusted linkages, worn/broken parts OR too hi an idle. Can all cause creaping.

To answer your question, sorry, no there is nothing really there to realign the cover that why you need to do it before hand. Without marks you have a 33% chance of getting it back in position. BUT not all is lost. Its "best" to assemble as you took it apart because things have worn to that position. At such lo miles ill say its a good bet you will see no bad of this small error. Just use your best guess and re assemble.

BTW, Do you have EPS? If so, check the one way bearing in the promary. These can get frozen causing creeping in some machines.

Clean blow out housing and clutches, thoroughly and re surface sheaves (whipe clean with brake cleaner) while your in there. Your new belt should be OK. You can lightly sand scuff this too if its glazed or shiny. Be careful not to make waves in belt. Do slowly by hand. Your just looking to "break" that glazing NOT really remove material.

Good luck,
CW
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The alignment looks good. I wanted to change the washers on the EBS (as suggested on another forum I found) but can't get the front half of clutch off due to need special tools.

Is there a way to check bearing if I can't get the spider off?

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The alignment looks good. I wanted to change the washers on the EBS (as suggested on another forum I found) but can't get the front half of clutch off due to need special tools.

Is there a way to check bearing if I can't get the spider off?

thanks


It's a one way bearing. If its not smooth and easy on one direction its bad.

The way the EBS works is it stops/slows the belt when your off the throttle. Because its driven by the primary and the primary cannot slow any faster then RPMs the engine slows the quad because of that one way bearing. (Simplified) the belt cannot "override" the engine RPMs.

How do the tranny and engine mounts look?

CW
 
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