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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone
I am new to this forum and am desperately seek advice as what to do. My 425 magnum AWD has stopped working. Both switches are working I have 11.5 volts coming out of wiring harness to magnets and I have purchased all new parts in hub ( armature plate, Hillary clutch & magnet coil with new sleeves). I checked armature before installing hubs and it appears be holding but I feel not hard enough to force Hillary clutch to expand out enough to engage hubs. I have insured that I have proper clearance between inner strut ring and the outer coil sleeve. All bearing appear in good condition and seals are new. When I install hub I tighten axle nut snug to seat everything then back off a 1/4 turn to allow free movement. I am at a loss as to what else to do, any help or advice will be greatly appreciated.
 

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You didn't mention what kind of oil you put in the hubs.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi latebird
I am using ATF fluid. But before I fully assemble hubs I turn key on and manually turn rear tire while ATV is in gear to see if the hubs will move and I have nothing. I have all 4 tires off the floor started ATV, put into gear and still nothing. I pulled the hubs back apart this morning and placed Hillary clutch in the hub to see what kind of clearance there is between hub and clutch which there seems to be a lot of room. Not sure how tight the clutch is supposed to fit in the hub? Your insight as to what I should do next would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
 

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I'm not a AWD guru - I know the drive is simplistic and not overly complicated - my first suggestion is to assure a good ground to the brown wire on the hub coil - next, the operation of the Hilliard can be observed with the hubs off - install the Hilliard, outer bearing cone all washers and spacers, tighten the nut - you can now engage the AWD and rotate the axle to see the Hilliard in operation - the magnet should attract the armature plate - the armature plate will resist turning because it's in contact with the magnet - the axle will rotate the inner cam, the magnet will hold the roller cage and the rollers will move outward - if you rotate the roller cage with your hand so the rollers are on top of the cam lobes, you can use calipers to measure the distance across the rollers - the hub diameter has to be something less than that measurement (I could not find a published measurement on the inner diameter of the hub).

Let me know if this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks latebird I have done all that except to measure clutch at its fullest. That is a good idea will try that thanks
 

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Hi Latebird
Well I took your idea and measured hub and clutch and everything is good with them. The magnets came with new wiring and they have a connector so I unplugged connector and checked voltage there and I am getting 11.5 volts on both so I don't think it is a ground issue. I did as you suggested and put plate, clutch, bearings washer and used the bearing from other side to have tight fit. I started ATV put in gear and gently added power until front axle started to turn and the clutch does not fully expand out so I am thinking the magnet is not strong enough to resist the clutch enough to fully engage. The only thing I can think of is I do not have the strut ring and outer sleeve flush with each other. Tomorrow I am taking strut off machine and pulling outer sleeve back off cleaning everything up and reinstalling it. With strut flat on bench I feel I can seat the outer sleeve properly with it being flush with strut ring hopefully. There is nothing else I can think of. I will keep you updated to my progress. Thanks for your advice.
 

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You may have voltage with a bad ground (voltage is only the push), but you can loose amperage if the ground is bad - try checking the voltage when the magnet is active - and the voltage drop will be different when there is no armature attracted to the magnet and when the armature is in contact with it. For testing you might attach a wire from the neg terminal of the battery to the brown wire going to the magnet just to rule out a bad ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi Latebird
Sorry took me so long to reply needed a break from the ATV and had home project to take care of. I unplugged wire from harness and wired it directly to a car battery with the same results. I took the strut off and took it to a machine shop on a hunch. I was thinking maybe the strut ring has worn unevenly and I am not getting consistent contact with the armature plate. Well this is the case, using a straight edge and feeler gauges we determined that at 2 to 5 o'clock position the strut is worn down ever so slightly. So we tried adjusting the sleeve but it thru off the other sides adjustment (9 to 11 o'clock). Not sure if my next move is the smart thing to do but the machinist said he could use sanding stones set the sleeve to the lowest level of the strut ring and fine sand the strut rings high spot down. At this point I am about ready to put it back together and just run it as a 2x4. I am curious what your thought is? Thanks for your input it is nice to have a second opinion.
 

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IDK - they are not that hard to fix and not as critical as a machinist will make it out to be - as long as the magnet is attracting the armature plate to it, it does not need 100% contact to work - the Hilliard only needs enough resistance to cause the rollers to run up the ramp where they bind against the cam and hub to drive the front wheel.
Of course it can be used as a 2x4 which it is even when the AWD is active - the front only pulls when the rear slips.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well I am at a loss that is the only thing I can think of. The armature plate does attract to magnet hard from about 7 o'clock position to 1 ,2 o'clock postion. When I say hard i mean you have to pull hard to pull it free not so at other positions. So I guess I am think if I do not have good contact with 1/3 of the magnet there is not enough resistance on the plate to fully engage the clutch. I took your suggestion about installing all the bearings,clutch without hub on and visual watch the clutch and the lobes only go about 1/2 way to rollers before plate slips on magnet. Not sure if I am right but if everything is working properly I would think that the clutch lobes would jump right pass the rollers. My other option is I found a guy whose family used to have a Polaris dealership and he is doing repairs out of his garage. He said bring it over and he would take a look at it. I probably should swallow my pride and take it over to him.
 

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latebird, do you think 11.5 volts enough? Machine running, it should get 13.8+
 

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11.5 should be good - it should work even at 9v - maybe a guy with experience will see the problem right away and get it fixed in short order. Most people (including experienced mechanics) struggle with electrical problems - I have a degree in electronics and electrical problems seem much easier for me, but I do have one problem - electricity flows from neg to pos and I struggle with neg ground (power flows from ground back to the battery) and all vehicles (except some pre-1980's english motorcycles) are neg ground. I have to forget my education and trouble shoot backwards pretending that pos is the source and it returns to ground. This is fine until diodes are installed in circuits to allow current in some cases, but not others. I have to look at the circuit in forward bias then.
 
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