1) - NO GREASE! - put about 4 oz On Demand Fluid in the hub, turn the hub so the hole is in the 4 o'clock position and let any excess oil drain out then install the plug.

2) - the video is OK, but I just pour in the measured quantity (16 oz) and it's done.

3) -
4) - not necessary, but is an OK mod

The rest was just normal maint. and the only other fluids that might need changed is the brake fluid and the counter balance gear oil.

If you would like the service manual - PM me your email address and I'll send you a PDF copy

 

1) - NO GREASE! - put about 4 oz On Demand Fluid in the hub, turn the hub so the hole is in the 4 o'clock position and let any excess oil drain out then install the plug.

2) - the video is OK, but I just pour in the measured quantity (16 oz) and it's done.
View attachment 139511
View attachment 139512
3) -
4) - not necessary, but is an OK mod

The rest was just normal maint. and the only other fluids that might need changed is the brake fluid and the counter balance gear oil.

If you would like the service manual - PM me your email address and I'll send you a PDF copy

Thanks for the info. For Chaincase Lubricant, can i use 10w30 or should i get that Polaris Chaincase Lubricant. I am seeing different suggestions online.

 

I've been using ATF in the transmission of all my 2 stroke motorcycles since the 60's and my 04 CRF250 gets ATF in it's transmission - I have raced it sine it was new and have never even had the clutch cover off yet - top end has been rebuilt twice a year since new and I run $20 a quart 15w50 synthetic oil in the motor - I change the motor oil after every third race and the transmission oil twice a year.

 

When it says "chaincase" oil, are they referring to the transmission? I never heard of a chaincase before.

 

Yes - some transmissions were internal gear drive and others were internal chain drive

 

Ok i have a question about the oil pump on this 2 stroke. What is the best/easiest way to check to make sure it is working properly. I will be changing all hoses btw to ensure no blockage.

1. I have seen suggestions that you mix the first tank, fill oil tank up and mark the level. After the initial tank if the oil dropped then it's working. Now if i do this will it hurt my engine to run it mixed AND have the oil pump working correctly together? (Too much oil)

2. I have seen someone mention unplugging the outlet and seeing if it drips on idle. Wouldn't that hurt the engine even if it's like that for a little while?

What suggestion you hav @latebird

 

1) - you almost can't hurt the engine with too much oil, but there are instances where too much of a certain oil mixed with a certain fuel chemically created a mixture with a high burn temperature that melted the piston - a rare circumstance, but not impossible.

2) - there is enough oil on the engine parts to run with no oil for upwards of 20 minutes with no damage, but that depends on the amount and type of oil that was being used.

Testing an oil pump is simple; First, if it smokes and the level in the oil tank falls, it's working and I have never seen an oil pump that failed unless it was run dry (no oil) for a long time (months), but I have seen failed oil pump drives. Second, if you need to prime or test a suspected oil pump failure (drive or otherwise), disconnect the oil line from the pump to the engine, plug the port so air will not enter (this is just so the engine will idle normally), start the engine and manually open the pump to it's maximum output and watch the output from the pump - it should drip every 5 seconds or so - if it does, operation has been verified - reconnect the lines and just monitor the level in the oil tank - if you ride a lot, you might use a quart of oil in about a month.

Use a two stroke oil certified for oil injection - any oil can be premixed with non-ethanol fuels, a special oil is needed to mix with ethanol blended fuel and injection approved oil can be premixed, but premix oil is not suitable for injection.

 

Yeah he oil tank is 3/4 full and when i took off the inline oil filter today to change it it poured out quickly, so i am thinking it is fine. Also it doesn't melt or deteriorate the lines unlike the fuel lines that some spots was actually soft and tore apart.

The oil for injection is literally a blueish color. he said he used specific "Injection oil" all the time. The shops around here just say to toss in 2 stroke oil and go. I prefer REAL injection oil. Is it ok if i use synthetic injection oil like "Amsoil 2 stroke injection oil" with whatever is in there now or should i drain/flush/fill.

Hoping tomorrow is the day i start the old girl and see if all my work was worth it. I will advise.

 

Polaris Blue injection oil is synthetic - it does not make a difference if the oil is synthetic or mineral other than synthetic does not burn with the fuel therefore less smoke and the exhaust runs wet - mineral and vegetable oils do burn = more smoke and carbon buildup in the exhaust.

 

@latebird

Ok so it started right up and it's smoking. So that's a good thing. But it's idling awful rough. Here is a video to it idling and me slightly giving it throttle. Backfiring as throttle climbs. Needle is at 1.5 turns and doesn't seem to affect it to 1 full turn either way.The idle screw is al the way in but it doesn't affect the idle to raise it, i need to do it manually with a little pressure. I'm going to check how t adjust the throttle cable. Also when i took the cap off the throttle mechanism there's fluid in there! Like brake fluid. Is that normal?? Never seen such a thing LOL

 

The slide should not hang - free from top to bottom

The old VM carbs developed two common problems - the slide or slide bore could wear causing a catch and the guide pin and pin groove in the side of the slide will wear - the pin can narrow and the groove widen - if the pin develops sharp edges and the groove wears wider in one spot more than the length of the slide, it can hang (thus the throttle safety switch). You need to inspect the carb for notches and sharp edges to discover what's causing the resistance to movement - sometimes some idgit hits or drops the carb and puts a dent in the slide bore - if that's the case, you need to sand out the deformation and polish the bore with steel wool.

Have fun, figure it out and fix it.

 

@latebird i fixed that problem than you!

I edited the post to reflect an idling issue. It might not have updated for you.

 

OK - I was just a bit late replying and didn't see the latest post between opening the thread and posting my reply.

Idle seems pretty much normal for a two stroke and the air screw does not have much effect one - normal to set the air screw at 1 1/2 turns and forget about it.

Backfiring through the intake without an air filter, kinda normal too - backfiring out the exhaust is a spark issue, bad plug, weak spark or a late spark for some yet unknown reason.

Glad to see you have it going.

 

@latebird

That rough idle is normal? It's shaking the whole engine.

Not backfiring through exhaust.

Seems to not be a smooth throttle at all.

How about fluid in the throttle housing, it appears to be brake fluid. Is there suppose to be fluid in there to keep things moving freely perhaps?

Trying to find a compression tester today.

 

The engine is mounted on rubber cushions - you might check that the three mounts are tight and intact (not broken), but the engine movement (shaking) is normal.

Throttle housing is normally dry - no telling what a previous owner did - sop out the fluid and don't fret it.

Compression is a good thing to know, but the way the engine starts, I'm guessing the compression is about normal.

 

Just an update for you @latebird I got it running smoother. But the latest problems are:

1. Rad fan motor is seized, put 12 volt to it and it won't budge. Getting another one tomorrow. Rad fins was filled with 15+ year old mud. Soaked it in hot water overnight and hosed it off, like new.

2. The front brakes aren't grabbing hardly. Told they can be tough to properly bleed so someone suggested reverse bleeding. Going to do it tomorrow.

3. Need to check the rear brakes, they aren't grabbing at all!

 

OK so after a break from repairing the bike and the trails being closed anyway due to extremely high fire risk, i am tackling it again. I am having a heck of a time to get the brakes to be firm in the handle. I took apart the master cylinder but i can't seem to get the baffle and washer that goes IN the reservoir to stay in. No clue what the hell i am doing as i didn't take it out. It kinda fell out when i blew air into it to dry it. Diagram shows the washer goes in the rubber baffle, but it doesn't seat in the hole in the master cylinder and satay there.

After a little run i noticed that the axle that the sprocket and rear brake rotor bolts to was smoking. I am assuming the "output shaft bearing assembly" was seized so i ordered a new one, will be here early next week.

Other than that, it runs pretty good. Just need to get it "fine tuned: by a mechanic that knows how to properly tune the carb.

Any help on that master cylinder would be great. I got a rebuild kit coming for it and want to do it right.