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Discussion Starter #1
The throttle cable seems fine. The oil pump is by passed and the cable to it is rusted and not hooked up but seems to function properly for carb. It's over revving on start up. I pull the plug to kill it.
I guess I'll check compression bc it seems to be sealed at intake connecting and air box connections.
The choke cable is just the cable and when I pull it it does move slightly and I push it down and it just over revs. It's sat for probably two years carb has been cleaned . Any ideas?
 

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Have the carb serviced and be prepared to replace or repair the throttle cable - when the oil pump is removed, the cable should be replaced or modified to eliminate the oil pump side.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
In what way do I need to modify the cable? Can I cut the second one off? I found a crack in air box I'm about to fix. I'm about to try to order rubber boot from air box to carb, an air filter so if I need to order a cable instead of modifying what cable do I need?
 

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Back in the day of racing two strokes, we took the cable off, and removed the oil pump side then plugged the cable socket in the splitter to keep water out and later we started getting custom cables made by Motion Pro that just simply eliminated the junction. You should at the least just remove the oil pump cable to prevent it binding at an inopportune moment.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I cut the cable at the junction then cut it pretty close to the oil pump. Guess I'll unscrew it take it out and put a bolt in it. I'm eventually going to go back to an oil pump if I get around to it bc I know it'll get the proper ratio at the appropriate time. Just trying to get it going. How can I test to see if the needle is sitting all the way in the carb? When the needle is all the way in carb I can wiggle the needle around in the jet is that alright? Or is it worn?
 

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Which needle are you speaking of - the slide needle or the float needle? Regardless, they have to have some side to side movement. ????///only way to tell if they are worn is to remove them and inspect them closely.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The slide needle and ok I got the carb off now. I'll probably go ahead and buy a rebuild kit what kit or brand do you recommend ? I didn't know if the slide needle in bottom position (throttle not pressed) was supposed to have clearance in the bore or not but I imagine it needs some to idle.
 

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The slide needle is a loose fit - it idles off the pilot jet and fuel screw, 1/8 to 1/4 throttle is a combination of pilot circuit and slide needle - 1/4 to 3/4 throttle is primarily slide needle and needle jet - full throttle is 99% main jet

The slide needle and needle jet is a matched set with most carbs, but Polaris sells them separately - a new needle may come in a rebuild kit, but the needle jet is seldom included in a rebuild kit and it is about $36 by itself. I never replace a needle without replacing the jet - part # 3130429.

Polaris never made a 97 Xplorer 400, so I looked up parts for a 96 - the kits I prefer to use (when I use a kit - 90% of all carbs can be repaired with out the installation of a kit and 90% of all carbs needing service suffer from problems not fixed by installing new parts) are Shindy and All Balls - Quad Boss is a re-branded All Balls kit and K&L kits are OK. I'm sure there are other kits out there, but the ones mentioned I am familiar with. No one has 100% coverage so sometimes it a matter of what is available.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yea it's a 95, ole lady's grandad gave it to me thought it was a 97. And this tells me about all I need to know. And yea I was gonna replace the needle jet as well. Thanks for the part number and taking your time to break down how the carb works.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
You got me thinking I should look at it more closely as I am not one to just throw parts at something normally. I'll check it out when I get home from work.
 
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