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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone have the resistance/voltage specs for the starting system.

Turns over but no spark. I have everything ripped open and can measure everything but I don't know what voltages/resistances are acceptable. Any help is greatly appreciated.

DRN
 

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Simple - you are not looking for voltages yet and when you do, you need either a peak voltage meter or oscilloscope

First - the battery is not part of the ignition system - it just runs the starter motor to turn the engine over (or crank as some prefer to refer to it)

Start by unplugging the black wire from the CDI unit and see if spark is restored - if not then get your trusty peak voltage meter and I'll guide you through the troubleshooting procedure - if spark is restored by unplugging the black wire, connect an ohm meter to the black wire in the wiring harness and the other meter lead to a good ground (brown wires are ground) - find out which switch is connected to ground (key switch, handlebar switch, throttle safety switch or reverse speed limiter module)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Simple - you are not looking for voltages yet and when you do, you need either a peak voltage meter or oscilloscope

First - the battery is not part of the ignition system - it just runs the starter motor to turn the engine over (or crank as some prefer to refer to it)

Start by unplugging the black wire from the CDI unit and see if spark is restored - if not then get your trusty peak voltage meter and I'll guide you through the troubleshooting procedure - if spark is restored by unplugging the black wire, connect an ohm meter to the black wire in the wiring harness and the other meter lead to a good ground (brown wires are ground) - find out which switch is connected to ground (key switch, handlebar switch, throttle safety switch or reverse speed limiter module)
I pulled the kill switch wire and still no spark. I’ve got a meter with min/max so I can catch the peaks and such.
Thx for taking the time Latebird
 

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You need to pull the Black wire at the CDI box, not by the kill switch.
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The black wire near the coil that connects to the spark plug? I saw online that it was a shutdown wire and to disconnect that one and try for spark. I’m not home but I can post pics here shortly.
 

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Find the CDI box wherever it migh be located and just unplug that one black wire

144634
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
This is the wire, it comes from the CDI. And this diagram is a bonus, but same story, when disconnected it did not spark.

I pulled the blue/white wire off to measure ohms on the ignition coil to ground and I also measured the plug wire to ground but I don't have any reference to what is acceptable or not. The battery is garbage too, can I jump it to my truck and try for measurements or do I need to connect a battery to it for testing purposes? I can rig up a battery from another quad or whatever for troubleshooting if necessary.

Brake lever is just flipping back and forth, zero engagement, reservoir is empty. That needs advice if anyone want to offer. Feels like the lever is not connected to anything.

Pulled the oil drain plug, nothing came out. Great...

Trying to get my brothers quad running but I'm not experienced with Polaris quads.

DRN
 

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You don't need a battery for spark - it's a magneto ignition

Here's the resistances to get you started
144644
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
GRN TO BLK/R: 454 OHMS
GRN TO R: 2.6 OMS
GN TO GND: 4 MEGAOHM

W TO W/R: 99.3 OHMS
W TO GND: 6.3 MEGAOHM

Y TO Y/R: 0.3 OHMS
Y TO GND: OL

PRIMARY: 0.3 OHMS
SECONDARY: OL

Looks like the secondary on the Ignition coil. Measured it at the plug end to the gnd connection on the coil itself.

Anything else to check out as a double check?

Thanks for the table Latebird, awesome work.
 

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Did you check the secondary with the spark plug cap on or off? The plug cap can go bad and the coil still be good. The plug cap has a 5K ohm resistor built into it and it screws onto the wire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Did you check the secondary with the spark plug cap on or off? The plug cap can go bad and the coil still be good. The plug cap has a 5K ohm resistor built into it and it screws onto the wire.
I did not, I was goin to get after it again today after looking up parts last night. I didn’t know the plug cap could come off or go bad on it’s own so I’ll check it out.

Brakes are no longer seized and battery is back so I’ll update later.

Thank you again Latebird.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Once the plug cap was off the resistance on the cable was 5.75k ohms to ground on the ignition coil. The plug hit OL while disconnected so there was no conductivity there from end to end.

Anything else to check out?
 

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With the plug cap off the wire, it there spark from the wire to the cylinder head - if yes, replace the plug cap - if no, it's getting a bit deeper
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok so with the cap on and the plug in it there was no spark when held against the frame (ground a bare spot), this was how it started. Now I removed the cap and I need to test the wire itself in the same fashion correct? It seems like my meter probe went into the cap a ways, will it jump out so I can see it? Sorry for the hassle, I'm just trying to get my head around this...
 

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Now I removed the cap and I need to test the wire itself in the same fashion correct?
Correct, but using the engine is a better test - the frame is a better ground, but the spark has to ground to the engine - if spark jumps from the wire to the frame it should also jump from the wire to the engine. If it does not jump to the engine, the engine has lost it's ground.

It seems like my meter probe went into the cap a ways, will it jump out so I can see it? Sorry for the hassle, I'm just trying to get my head around this...
The cap is tested with a meter - one lead has to contact the terminal that connects to the plug and the other lead to the screw that secures it to the wire - ohms will be around 5000 plus 1000 and minus 4000 is fine - OL is bad and over 6000 is bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So here is the plug and the cable, resistance is ok on one and bad on the other, however, I get no spark from anything to the frame or the engine Latebird. I never got a spark to anything from the get go so I was hoping it was the ignition coil but maybe not? The CDI next? Do you have any info on that?

Sorry to keep up with this but I appreciate any help.

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So here is the plug and the cable, resistance is ok on one and bad on the other, however, I get no spark from anything to the frame or the engine Latebird. I never got a spark to anything from the get go so I was hoping it was the ignition coil but maybe not? The CDI next? Do you have any info on that?

Sorry to keep up with this but I appreciate any help.
Good, you have a meter with peak voltage function

I presume you are doing this with the black wire of the CDI box unplugged?

144819


With the black wire disconnected at the CDI box and the engine at normal cranking speed
You need to check peak voltage on the wht/blu wire - typically about 100 volts
Check PV on the wht to wht/red wires - typically 3 to 5 volts
Check PV on the blk/red to grn, red to grn and blk/red to red - no published values so it seat of the pants, but Something on each pair of wires in the neighbor hood of 35 volts or more

My seat of the pants guess is the stator failed - it's the most common failure
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well Latebird I swapped out the ignition coil as all other measurements were up to snuff and it now has spark but won't fire up. Cranks over but won't fire.

Additional input, I pulled the oil plug and nothing came out the day I got it to the house, ok not good. I pulled it again a day or so later and water poured out, extra not good, I assume that the water was frozen which was why nothing drained out originally. I found out that this thing was swamped and has been cranked over about 100 times by my brother prior to me getting to look at it (he can be a fool). I believe there is water in the quad but unfortunately I am not sure the next step, pull the carb and clean it out? I should also add that this thing has sat for months after said swamping so I am not sure just what I may be getting into. I will continue to try if I can get some sound advise but if not, I'm booting it to the local mechanic...
 

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Good, you have a meter with peak voltage function

I presume you are doing this with the black wire of the CDI box unplugged?

View attachment 144819

With the black wire disconnected at the CDI box and the engine at normal cranking speed
You need to check peak voltage on the wht/blu wire - typically about 100 volts
Check PV on the wht to wht/red wires - typically 3 to 5 volts
Check PV on the blk/red to grn, red to grn and blk/red to red - no published values so it seat of the pants, but Something on each pair of wires in the neighbor hood of 35 volts or more

My seat of the pants guess is the stator failed - it's the most common failure
hi i have a polaris sportsman 500 h.o 2003 carburetor no 100 volts on the blue white wire that comes out with the cdi unit what could be the problem
 

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hi i have a polaris sportsman 500 h.o 2003 carburetor no 100 volts on the blue white wire that comes out with the cdi unit what could be the problem
That's 100 PEAK volts - it's just a pulse about a millisecond in duration of about 100v - 80 to 120v or more is acceptable.

The first thing to do when spark is lost is to unplug the black wire from the CDI unit - if that restores spark, the problem is connection related - if not, then it is ignition system component related.
 
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