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Hi all,

I have been fighting with this for months now, I replaced the rear caliper, front calipers and tried a new master cylinder on the front. (Verified my old master cylinder on the front is good after doing this so put that one back on.) So my issue is this, if I have the rear brake connected to the junction block for the front brakes, I cannot get pressure through the system, so no brakes at all work, front or rear. If I disconnect the brake line going from the front master cylinder to the rear caliper and plug that hole on the junction block, I can bleed the front brakes and get pressure and get front brakes. But once I hook the rear line back I cannot get front or rear brakes to work again. Again I have installed a new caliper in the rear as well, I did notice that even after installing the new rear caliper I still get fluid back pressure up to the front master cylinder if I pump too much on the rear. I have tried bleeding the front line on the rear caliper, then bleeding the rear line, no pressure, I have tried bleeding both the front and rear lines to the rear caliper at the same time, and while the brakes do get tight and work if you pump both the front brake and rear brake, and the pressure goes down like it should once you bleed, it will not build pressure back up using one or the other. Am I missing something here? If memory serves me correctly, I should be able to either push the front brakes or the rear brake seperate of each other and have brakes, I shouldn't have to push both the front brake and rear brake at the same time to stop? Any ideas? I have rebuilt literally 75% of this 4-wheeler and this is holding me up from being finished... (List at the bottom of whats been done for those interested)

Thanks in advance!

Motor rebuilt about a year ago and has roughly 5 hours on it - ITP Aluminum Rims - Vampire Super Swamper Tires (Low PSI tires that won't go flat) - Replaced rear right hub (less then 2 hours on it) - New Chain - New Front and Rear sprocket - New Transmission chain guard - New Rear chain guard - New petcock valve in gas tank - Carb has been resealed (no leaks) - New Airfilter - New Carb Boot - New N/R indicator light - New Hi-Temp indicator light - New Wiring harness for indicator lights - New Wheel bearings / hub bearings on front right & left - New axle/cv joint on front left (used bolt/nylon nut rather then roll pin for easier removal) - New fuel line to gas tank - New radiator overflow bottle - Newly upholstered seat (plastic in excellent shape on seat) - New handgrips (Odi Rogue lock-on series) - New upper steering console bushing - New AGM battery - New Brake pads all around - New inner/outter tie rods for front - New Front Calipers - New Rear Caliper - New Ignition Switch
135736
 

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The only thing left is the rear brake master cylinder. And yes you should be able to pull the front brake lever and get both the front and rear brakes to work. The rear brake pedal only operates the rear caliper. But they are all interconnected. I just don't remember the routing of the lines right now.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah, there is a line from the junction block on the front master cylinder to the top bolt hole on rear caliper, and the rear line goes to the bottom hole, that was my thoughts as well, nothing left but master cylinder... I am going to try plugging the front line on the rear caliper and see if I can get pressure on the rear brake that way, which I would assume I should be able to, if all is well with the rear...
 
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