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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so I bought this machine thinking it was in running condition minus AWD. Guy told me it starts hard when its cold - called it a Polaris thing. Not true. It absolutely would not start when I brought it home.
So I took the valve cover off and adjusted the valve clearance and now the thing starts right up.
Here are my issues that I need help with:
  • Does not shift properly
  • I have removed both shifting linkages per the service manual and lined up the rod ends to drop into the gear case and the shifter. With adjustment I can either get reverse or High - not both. Even the tiniest adjustment will make it so that it doesn't quite go into High, rotate the shift linkage slightly the other way and I can get reverse but it wont go into high.
Low works but and adjustment on the High/Revrse linage will throw it out. What can I do to resolve?

AWD:
  • So I tested the switch and got 12 volts
  • I tested the wires after the electrical board and got 12 volts
  • I determined that the passenger side was good - the magnet was strong - Drivers side, no magnet
  • I replaced the drivers side coil and it is working (magnet)
  • AWD light still does not come on
  • Wheels do not engage when in High gear
  • Battery is fully charged
  • Speedometer is the old cable type - not electronic. Only electric on speedo is the light bulb. Cable is broken and I have ordered a new one but I dont think this would impact the AWD?

Any tips or suggestions would be appreciated. I have had this for a while now and I feel like it is so close to functioning properly but I cant seem to get it over the finish line.
 

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Hopefully I am not stating known info here. But Polaris 4x4 is not true 4x4. A lot of people don’t know that. The front will only engage when the rear slips, as long as everything is working correctly. If you are getting a positive and a negative from the coil harness everything electrical should be good. Do the dash lights for neutral and reverse work? If not the problem could more than likely be the switch in the shifter housing. They break and you can’t get a new one. If your gear position switches are on the transmission those are more reliable. That would be the next thing to check for the awd though.


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Discussion Starter #3
Hopefully I am not stating known info here. But Polaris 4x4 is not true 4x4. A lot of people don’t know that. The front will only engage when the rear slips, as long as everything is working correctly. If you are getting a positive and a negative from the coil harness everything electrical should be good. Do the dash lights for neutral and reverse work? If not the problem could more than likely be the switch in the shifter housing. They break and you can’t get a new one. If your gear position switches are on the transmission those are more reliable. That would be the next thing to check for the awd though.


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I have read that the front wheels only engage when the rears loose traction however the AWD switch does not light up when the button is pushed.
Yes, I have neutral and reverse lights. However with the shifter out of adjustment, sometimes when I put it in high, the reverse light stays on.
And yes, the switch for the gear selector is at the gear shift, not on the tranny. If there is an issue with that switch, would it cause the awd light not to come on?
I will test the wiring of the gearshift switch tonight.
 

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The easy way to check if AWD is working is to get all 4 wheels off the ground (jack stands, etc), and run it. If AWD is working, all 4 will be powered while running with all wheels off the ground.
 

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Well, the AWD light should come on even if the AWD coils do not energize

When in forward (either high or low) 12v is on the gry/wht wire - when the AWD switch is 'ON', 12 is applied to the AWD light and the coils, but the AWD light is connected directly to ground (brn wire) while the coils are looking for ground on the brn/wht wire.

149847


The brn/wht wire is grounded by the 'HUB SAFETY MODULE'
149849


AWD will lose it's ground if the throttle cable is not adjusted properly (white wire), if the engine RPM is too high (yel/red wire) or if the black wire is grounded (engine kill wire).

Maybe this will help?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The easy way to check if AWD is working is to get all 4 wheels off the ground (jack stands, etc), and run it. If AWD is working, all 4 will be powered while running with all wheels off the ground.
Got all 4 off the ground. Front wheels do not engage
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well, the AWD light should come on even if the AWD coils do not energize

When in forward (either high or low) 12v is on the gry/wht wire - when the AWD switch is 'ON', 12 is applied to the AWD light and the coils, but the AWD light is connected directly to ground (brn wire) while the coils are looking for ground on the brn/wht wire.

View attachment 149847

The brn/wht wire is grounded by the 'HUB SAFETY MODULE'
View attachment 149849

AWD will lose it's ground if the throttle cable is not adjusted properly (white wire), if the engine RPM is too high (yel/red wire) or if the black wire is grounded (engine kill wire).

Maybe this will help?
yes I think it will help - just need to get my head around it haha. Question: "ETC Switch" is stated as being in the throttle housing... Where is that located?

The black one is of interest to me as well because the kill switch on the handlebar does not function... Time for more digging!

BTW: For some reason, when the bike is off the ground, the shifter works fine, it goes into the gears properly. Why woildn't it do that when it is planted on the ground?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Update:
Can someone help me understand how this works?
149910


I have what to me appears to be 2 gray wires, 1 brown wire and 1 yellow wire. Am I wrong? The service manual (diagram in quote above) shows 2 Gray wires (I know one is gray/white), and 2 brown wires? So I know you have the main power wire coming in and has 12v, and that when the button is pushed, close the circuit and power to the gray and hubs should engage. 1 wire (brown) looks obvious that it goes to the bulb but shouldn't another wire (brown) be attached to that empty solder point as a ground back to the circuit board? But then what is the yellow wire for?
Also, after the wires leave the switch, the yellow and the gray/white connect and out as 1 gray/ wire?
All have continuity
149912
149913
 

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What's the VIN of the vehicle? I need to verify the model number to assure that I attached the right wiring diagram.
 

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Model Year - 1999
Model Number - A99CH33AA
Purchase Date - 7/7/1998
VIN - 4XACH33A9XA014969
Engine Serial Number - 9901734

That appears to be the AWD/TSS/AWD light module out of the throttle housing - I don't have one to takes pics of, but it is difficult to tell how it works when only looking at 1/2 of the assembly - brown is ground, gry/wht is AWD

This is part of what you are trying to see
149927


I don't know about the yel wire - I believe it was a repair
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Model Year - 1999
Model Number - A99CH33AA
Purchase Date - 7/7/1998
VIN - 4XACH33A9XA014969
Engine Serial Number - 9901734

That appears to be the AWD/TSS/AWD light module out of the throttle housing - I don't have one to takes pics of, but it is difficult to tell how it works when only looking at 1/2 of the assembly - brown is ground, gry/wht is AWD

This is part of what you are trying to see
View attachment 149927

I don't know about the yel wire - I believe it was a repair
But shouldn't the light have 2 wires to complete the circuit?
I'm actually leaning towards the gear shifter wiring or internals. When I adjust the linkage, it shifts perfectly, until I turn it on. It shifts ok for a shift or two but then it messes up and won't go into either forward or reverse. If there is a bad wire which I have not seen at either end, that may cause the awd to think the transmission isn't in gear? Still doesn't explain why it doesn't light up.
 

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Not necessarily - the ground may be by contact to a grounded internal part - there again, the mechanic performing the work is responsible for inspecting and assuring the connection - as the mechanic repairing the unit, you may opt to install a separate ground wire to repair a failed connection - that's your option and decision.

Shifting is mechanical and has nothing to do with the electrical - I suggest you have worn linkage components that need to be replaced or possible worn out internal transmission parts needing replacement - again, the mechanic performing the service will determine the cause and take the appropriate corrective action.

Whether the light illuminates or not will not prevent the AWD from working or the transmission from shifting. It takes many years of mentoring or logic combined with trial and error or trial and success to be a qualified mechanic. Think about it, look at it, study what the engineer accomplished and how he may have erred and correct the problem.

The guy who designed it and developed it was a hell of a lot smarter than either me or you - all we have to do is find out what the weakness was and improve it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ummm yeah so anyway, I took the shifter apart, tested continuity in the wires and reinstalled. The shifter was shifting the same as before; goes into forward fine but when i dropped it down to reverse, its like its not fully engaged and you can feel the gears not quite locked in gear. No idea what to do with that. Would be nice if someone on here could offer suggestions on that.
I confirmed that there is 12 volts going down to the hubs. Still no light, still no AWD.
Now for some reason the reverse light is on in every gear - wtf do I do now?
Would appreciate some help. I know I am not a mechanic thats why I am here seeking advice.
 

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It sounds like you may not have the switch back in the right position when you pulled the shifter apart. There is a chance the shift forks are worn inside the transmission that are not allowing you full engagement of all the gears.


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Remove the linkage from the transmission bellcrank (#9 in the pic) - shift it into forward by hand and test drive it - then shift it into reverse and test ride it - if it's fine with the shifter linkage disconnected, repair the shift linkage or shifter box - if it jumps out of gear, then the transmission is at fault - if the transmission is the problem, it may be fixed by replacing parts (key nummber 14 (NLA - has to be repaired in a machine shop), 22, 23, 24, 25, 26,27 and 28) $479 in parts plus the repair and machining of the shift fork #14 or try to find a used transmission - going price is $250 to $500 USD

Good luck - maybe it will only need a proper adjustment or minor part in the shifter box.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
It doesn't pop out of gear, it just doesn't want to shift completely. If I adjust the linkage one way, it goes into forward perfectly but not reverse. If I adjust the linkage in the opposite direction, reverse works perfectly but then it won't quite go into forward. So frustrating.
 

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So then - the problem is in a sloppy shifter box - once the transmission is in gear the lock (parts 16, 17 and 18) hold it in gear - you just need to replace the parts that it takes to make the shifter box more precise or the linkage parts that have wear and are not moving the designed didtance.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
So then - the problem is in a sloppy shifter box - once the transmission is ion gear the lock (parts 16, 17 and 18) hold it in gear - you just need to replace the parts that it takes to make the shifter box more precise or the linkage parts that have wear and are not moving the designed didtance.
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