Would those marks on the shifter be enough to not allow full engagement of the gears?
I will disassemble tonight and take pics. The High/Reverse shift rod (in the shifter assembly) is dinged up more than the shifter lug.Can't say for sure - I usually find loose bellcranks and worn out heim joints on the linkage rods cause most problems - one way to find out is to move the shift lever to the gear you desire and then try moving the shift rod in the same direction as the shifter moved by grasping it with your hand and checking to see if it will move more than the shifter moved it.
If there is marks on the shift box rods that are as bad or worse than the marks on the shift lug, then the cumulative wear may be the cause of the problem.
Yes - it is a short lever (bellcrank) on the shift shaft - you have to overcome the spring loaded detent shift lock to get out of one position before it locks into the next position.I will disassemble tonight and take pics. The High/Reverse shift rod (in the shifter assembly) is dinged up more than the shifter lug.
I will also see how it shifts by hand on the bell crank. Those are not easy to move by hand. Are they meant to need force to shift the gears?
The switch is NLA, so it won't set you back a dime unless you can find a used one. If the transmission shifts and locks when using vice grips, there is nothing wrong with it. The transmission shafts have to turn either from the belt drive or rear wheel movement to fully engage and lock in gear - you may only need to apply pressure to the shift lever when shifted into gear as you try to accelerate to complete the shift. You may just need a new belt or the clutches may need to be serviced or all of it together. It's over 20 years old and has probably never been properly serviced. It's your now and you get to perform all the maintenance that has been neglected. Have fun.So it looks like I have been chasing the wrong end of this. I tried using vice grips on the bell crank to go through the gears. The issue is actually in the transmission. from the bell crank, the transmission would not consistently lock in place. If I rocked the bike and push on the vice grips, it would rotate the bell crank further and lock into gear. So it would appear that I need to tear the transmission apart?
On a positive note, my transmission switch is no longer working. it will physically switch but I belive its the electronics of the switch that is pooched. Powered on, it just lights up the reverse light. And to buy just the switch and harness will probably set me back about $200.00
I’m not familiar with the setup, but did you spin the front at all with your hand to see if it needed to lock into gear? Thinking maybe that under normal use, it may need a small amount of movement on the front to engage the front. Just an ideaSo kind of differrent topic and yet related; I decided to bypass the transmission switch by pulling the grey/white wire (coming out of the awd switch to the circuit board) off the circuit board and attaching it directly to a hot red/black wire to give the awd switch direct 12v. I placed one probe on the brown ground in the awd switch and one on the grey/white coming in. Got 12.9V
I turned the awd switch on and placed one probe on the brown wire inside the switch and the other probe on the yellow wire inside the switch, and the grey wire inside the switch and each read 12.9V
I then dismantled my hubs, ensured that the armatures were allind with the clutches (in the hub)
I turned the awd switch on and the magnets were definetly grabbing the clutches - no question they had power. I put the hubs back together, filled them with fuid, started the bike, put it in gear (all 4 wheels off the ground, ensured rear wheels were stopped. I hit the awd switch to on and rev the engine a few times and... Absolutely no action from the front wheels. How is that even possible?
@latebird is probably the best one to answer this. Without having any experience with that system, and not being there to see it, it’s hard to conceptualize. That said, latebird said above “The transmission shafts have to turn either from the belt drive or rear wheel movement to fully engage and lock in gear - you may only need to apply pressure to the shift lever when shifted into gear as you try to accelerate to complete the shift.” I don’t know. Good luck with it though, wish I could help. Let us know when you get it figured out.So disconnected the property shaft from the front diff and the property shaft spins freely in the transmission.
Started the bike on gear and the back wheels move but the property shaft still does not spin.
After removing the front diff, axels and diff spin freely.
Is this an internal issue with the transmission?
Can you post some pictures? Are you saying a male spline needed to be pushed into the female? I’m a little confused by your post. Either way good work getting it back functional. Before you finish you should figure out how to ensure it doesn’t come out again.Well that was strange. I really didn't want to pull the transmission so I figured if I took that inspection cover off that sits directly under the front shaft, I might be able to see something, and I did.
Sorry for butchering the terminology but here goes:
The out put shaft is connected to a large gear. Nothing was missing or damaged but there was nothing for it to turn against. It just spun freely. Confusing until I looked deeper, there was a ring gear? The 2 were not meshing, the output shaft was too far out of the transmission for the 2 gears to spin on each other.
I spun the snorkel until the 2 gears meshed, spun the rear wheels and the front shaft spun! Reinstalled the front diff and axels and they now spin!
Ran out of time to reinstall the hubs so will tomorrow