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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
I am not sure what happenned but I did check the bolt and it was tight. The AWD is now working however the AWD light is not working - bad bulb?

So I had the bike running, backed it out of the garage and when I would shift from reverse to High, I needed to rock the bike a little bit and push on the shifter until it locked into gear. Is this a problem with the shift forks? Could it possibly be an issue with the clutches? I have yet to look at the clutches, as I stated before, when just barely idiling the secondary clutch is grabbing the belt and spinning.
 

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Sounds pretty normal to me - might want to increase the idle speed slightly
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Having to rock the bike is normal? That would save me $$$ and frustration if I don't have to dig into the transmission.
I haven't really gotten it out for a run because I need a new battery. I am using a larger battery at the moment which I removed the seat and airbox so I could set it on top of the transmission. Need to get the right size battery so I can get the bike in driving condition!
 

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As long as the transmission locks into gear and stays there, then no tranny work is needed at this time
 

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Primary clutch not opening fully, incorrect width belt or idle too high
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
The belt is new and it is less than 1/16" wider than the one I took off.
That one was in rough shape, not sure what caused the damage.
Shouldn't the belt just slip on the primary clutch until power is applied?
I have at least 1 1/4" deflection in the belt.
Bike still will not go into gear and hard to pull out of gear. Thinking it's because the belt is putting tension on the gears of the transmission.
151350
 

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If you have the correct belt and the clutch opens fully and it has the correct clutch on it, the belt should not touch either sheave at idle and the belt will slip over the sleeve the sheaves slide on as it closes with engine acceleration.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
OK I made a video showing the position of the clutch and belt both with bike of and on as well as adding throttle.

Belt is correct belt - verified the part #
There are 2 shims in the rear of the driven clutch

It appears to me that the drive clutch does not extend all the way out when power is decreased or at idle.
When i pull it out, it feels like at the shaft is tapered and makes the clutch harder to pull out as it nears full disengagement. There is about 1/8" as seen at the end of the video - should the clutch extend out further to cover that?
 

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I don't know - I would need the vehicle in my possession to get a look at and feel of - maybe one of the others can help out
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Pulled both clutches off. Will take them in to the dealer and get their opinion. All the buttons are there, bushings seem good, weights are not sloppy. Something is up. Seems that the bearing is siezed. It should be able to spin freely, correct?
 

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Pulled both clutches off. Will take them in to the dealer and get their opinion. All the buttons are there, bushings seem good, weights are not sloppy. Something is up. Seems that the bearing is siezed. It should be able to spin freely, correct?
There is no bearing in a 99 335 clutch
151487


Now if a PO put on a clutch with a one way bearing, then the driven clutch and the belt need to be changed as well - good luck and let us know what you find out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
There is no bearing in a 99 335 clutch
View attachment 151487

Now if a PO put on a clutch with a one way bearing, then the driven clutch and the belt need to be changed as well - good luck and let us know what you find out.
Yeah I don't think it is EBS type. I dropped it at the Polaris dealer but I honestly don't think they know it is non ebs. I honestly don't know what they will find. But I don't have the spider tool so unfortunately I am at their mercy.
 
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