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Discussion Starter #1
Was getting just a click when I turned the ignition key, so after reading some threads within this forum, I decided to take a look inside the starter to see what I could see. I'm no electrician, especially when it comes to auto electrical systems, and I've never torn apart a starter before, so my terminology may be a bit strange . . . if so, please forgive me.

Anyway, I removed it from the bike, and took it apart. The splined shaft that meshes with the pullstart flywheel is extremely rusty. After disassembly, I noticed the brush connected to the positive stud is noticeably shorter than the other brush. Both brushes are a little grrr'd up with slight nicks and scratches in them. Here's my questions . . .

1. Can I wire brush the rusty splined shaft and then put a little grease on it once I reassemble this little beast and re-install it into the flywheel, or is greasing it a bad idea?

2. Is the fact that the brushes are different lengths my main problem with this starter (the battery is only a couple of months old).

3. Is there somewhere I can find or order new brushes only, or should I just go with DB Electric (or similar vendor) and order another starter?

4. What the hell is the "bendix," what does it do, and do I need to replace it on this bike? Some threads I've read recommended replacing it since the starter is already off.

Thanks for any info you can spare, and for your patience and time.

Regards,
Ed
 

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Buy a new starter from dbelectrical I have purchased several and all work great. The bendix is the stater drive. To replace it you have to remove the recoil assembly. It is the gear that the stater spins and it engages connecting the gear to the flywheel making the engine rotate. Wire brush the flywheel and gears free of rust. Doing this will prevent the bendix from staying engaged.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Buy a new starter from dbelectrical I have purchased several and all work great. The bendix is the stater drive. To replace it you have to remove the recoil assembly. It is the gear that the stater spins and it engages connecting the gear to the flywheel making the engine rotate. Wire brush the flywheel and gears free of rust. Doing this will prevent the bendix from staying engaged.
Thanks for the info, TT! Shortly after I posted this thread, I removed the recoil assembly and also the bendix. Rust was everywhere. I'll get a new starter and bendix from DB Electrical and clean up the teeth on the flywheel. Thanks again for your time!

Regards,
Ed
 

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You are welcome.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Something else to fix . . .

Well, replaced the starter and bendix with the DB Electrical kit. Fired right up and runs fine. But the next day . . .

Turned the ignition key on and hit the starter button. The starter sounded like it turned once, then stopped. Had to bump the starter button a couple of times before the flywheel finally spun and the motor started. There was no clicking or anything when the button was pushed, just that sound as if the starter and bendix didn't have enough oomph to rotate the flywheel. Maybe too much compression? Hell, I don't know . . .

Anyone else have this issue, or know what the cause of this "starter interruptus" might be? Please let me know.

Thanks,
Ed
 

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When you had the recoil assembly off did you happen to take a glance at the flywheel. The 500's were bad about the flywheel magnets coming off. The magnets are to the inside of the flywheel. Just a thought. Make sure you have a fully charged battery and all gound connections are clean and free of rust. Another possiblity is exhaust restriction.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Didn't notice anything missing off the flywheel. I'll double-check the ground connections and exhaust system.

Many thanks,
Ed
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Still tryin' . . .

Well, just tried again to start the thing. Same result - thumbed the starter button, starter grunted and then stopped. Thumbed it some more, then stopped. Grounds are good and clean, battery's good, and no obstructions of the exhaust system.

Took off the right side plastic, pulled on the recoil rope a couple of times, then turned the ignition on and thumbed the starter button again. Bingo! Fired right up.

So, what exactly does it mean when I seem to "free up" the flywheel by manually rotating it with the recoil rope and then start the motor using the electric start? I'm at a total loss as to understanding what's going on here.

Thanks for your time.
Ed
 

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How much compression does your 500 have? Sounds like you don't have enough snot to turn it over just with the starter.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Have no idea how much compression is there. Don't have a tester or anything, but I reckon I can find one somewhere nearby.

If it is low compression, what might be the cause for such a condition, and how would I correct it?
 

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I'm saying if a previous owner put in a high compression piston (or cut the head, etc), your battery may not have enough power to turn the motor over without the help of the pull start.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You may be on to something, dwhst9. The bike was a gift from my GF's father to her. He bought it from the PO, who kept it and used it at a hunting camp in upstate NY. Don't know if he replaced the piston or anything, though.

Anyway, we brought it home, and I started cleaning it up. One of the things I changed out was this HUGE non-OEM battery the PO had installed outside the battery box (on the rear rack, actually). The battery was pretty old, so I changed it out for the smaller OEM-spec'd battery, which I put back into the battery box under the wheelwell.

Now I'm wondering if the PO had installed that big-ass battery for the very reason about which I'm complaining - hard cranking. If so, is it reasonable to say that a battery with more cranking amps might solve my problem with turning over the flywheel?
 
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