[easystreet]

I'm having an issue with my '13 850 Touring. I sunk the front end a couple weeks back deep in a mud, sand, rock hole and punched a hole in a rim. I rode it 8 miles back to the truck on a flat front tire. After about 40ft a strong shutter and whirring sound started. After getting home and washing everything well it seemed fine. I took it out riding today and everything seemed fine for the first five miles. Then the thing felt as though my brakes were dragging hard and the shutter began again. I was driving at about 15 mph and felt like the motor was struggling to over come the drag.

It really felt like maybe the Active Decent Control was seizing me up. I made it back to the truck and let it sit about 15 minutes. I rode it around the parking area and it was about half improved. Packed it up and came home and now it seems fine again.

Could my ADC be turning itself on once the machine is warmed up? I didn't have it in ADC at all today when it started. It was shuttering and dragging in 2x4, 4x4, and 4x4adc.

It doesn't seem to be a brake issue. I put it in neutral and it rolled without resistance. Once back in gear it struggled to move. WTF :gruebel:

 

[neenahlawncare]

Just had this happen on our 08 touring right before we traded it in and what it was was junk in the diff fluid that was messing with the ADC sensor. May want to change the fluid in front diff. I asked and they said front diff fluid should be changed atleast once a year, if you sink it or ride in dusty, wet conditions then it should be changed more often..


Hope it helps you out and it is just a fluid change for you to fix. We took ours in and they changed the fluid 11 times before it came out clean..LOL But I was never scare to get our machine dirty...

 

[RVS Performance]

Yep, seen a few of them doing it with dirty ADC/ front diff fluid. May take a few changes to get it clean.

 

[cwlongshot]

YES. The arc clutches produce a lot of debris when new but should get better with age. Change the fluid but don't be surprised if you need to do this two even three times to flush out the debris. Popo recommends yearly. It's a good idea. At least for the first few years.

CW

 

[easystreet]

Thanks for the input guys. I have 30 hours on the quad and changed the front and rear differential fluid at about 10 hours with the Polaris oem fluid. The only fluid I haven't changed yet is the ADC. I would have done it, but I forgot which fluid it uses and then just forgot to do it entirely.
I was going to take this in as a warranty issue. Am I wrong in thinking they should fix this for free? The manual doesn't state it needing the fluid changed that early so I feel it should be a warranty claim.

 

[RVS Performance]

Did you use the AGL in the front diff? It uses ADC fluid.

 

[cwlongshot]

Yes should be warenty.

No it's not a big deal. Your choice.

CW

 

[bgirard420]

Should be a warranty issue IMO.


Rather be riding, instead I'm using Tapatalk

 

[RVS Performance]

If he put the wrong fluid in the front diff and that is causing it, it's not a warranty issue. It's user error. But not likely the dealer would notice the difference either.

 

[bgirard420]

If he put the wrong fluid in the front diff and that is causing it, it's not a warranty issue. It's user error. But not likely the dealer would notice the difference either.

Agree.

It says he didn't touch the adc fluid but if he didn't use demand drive in the front diff it would indeed be an issue. Not to mention, AGL is purple and demand drive is straw colored.


Rather be riding, instead I'm using Tapatalk

 

[Boburk]

And if they get into it and find water in any of the fluids...

Sean

 

[RVS Performance]

If he put the wrong fluid in the front diff and that is causing it, it's not a warranty issue. It's user error. But not likely the dealer would notice the difference either.

Agree.

It says he didn't touch the adc fluid but if he didn't use demand drive in the front diff it would indeed be an issue. Not to mention, AGL is purple and demand drive is straw colored.


Rather be riding, instead I'm using Tapatalk

It's so confusing I didn't even get it right. :rotflmao: AGL is for the trans. I meant AGF

 

[ScottyMalone101]

The ADC kicks in due to a electrical issue not the fluid clarity or type. Yes, there is a special fluid for that front diff but my ADC kicks in because I go so deep in the water. Whenever I go deep the ADC decides to kick on because some electrical got wet. Anyone know how to delete or bypass the ADC switch? In the meantime I sealed the switch on the handle bars better with silicone.

 

[easystreet]

Update:
I took it up to my dealer and they went over it yesterday. The mechanic couldn't replicate the problem. He stated that its possible my front diff fluid could be so gunked up and causing this even in 2x4. He changed it twice. Said the first batch was real dirty. This is at 30 hours. I had already changed it once around 13 hours and I did use the correct fluid. I will be riding this weekend to see if it is indeed fixed. I'm not very confident.
He said the ADC is activated through the switch on the bars and that its based off the speedometer signal. There is no relay anywhere to go bad or act up. He also said that ADC fluid never has to be changed. I found that odd.

In addition to this issue I mentioned my front wheels had side to side play. He replaced all 4 ball joints under warranty and that's tight again. 30 hours and my ball joints were shot!

 

[bgirard420]

Glad to hear about the ball joints being done under warranty. A few people have had issues with them not being done bec it was considered a "wear" item. 30 hours and worn sounds like cheap product to me.

As for the adc, hope it continues to behave for you!!


Rather be riding, instead I'm using Tapatalk

 

[bobx2]

The ADC kicks in due to a electrical issue not the fluid clarity or type. Yes, there is a special fluid for that front diff but my ADC kicks in because I go so deep in the water. Whenever I go deep the ADC decides to kick on because some electrical got wet. Anyone know how to delete or bypass the ADC switch? In the meantime I sealed the switch on the handle bars better with silicone.

If you take the cover off of your throttle control, only those four screws hold it on, you will see two wires with button head ends on them. When you squeeze the throttle, they will gap each other. When you release the throttle, they will make contact. That contact is what energizes the ADC, which is why it only functions when you are completely off the throttle. I just slipped a small piece of rolled up electrical tape in the gap between the two ends so they can no longer make contact and energize the system. I did it because on occasion, especially when it was wet out, the ADC would engage without sliding the switch over, and would not disengage. I have also inadvertently bumped the switch over while riding some tough terrain.
The only risk or drawback that I can possibly see is that I believe that electrical connection is also part of the throttle safety switch. If the throttle hangs, it won't cut the power if that switch doesn't close. I'm not going to worry about that. I'll take my chances with that one. Haven't heard of anyone's throttle hanging yet.

 

[ScottyMalone101]

Awesome! That is what I'm talking about. Thank you sir. I will do that. You're talking about that small opening with the two metal pads that touch, correct? Just slide something in there to stop the connection.

 

[bobx2]

Awesome! That is what I'm talking about. Thank you sir. I will do that. You're talking about that small opening with the two metal pads that touch, correct? Just slide something in there to stop the connection.

10-4, that's it.