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Anybody working on installing turf mode to there XP's?



I just finished mine and am very happy with it.



The only thing different I did with mine over CURTWPK is I mounted the PWM in the headlight pod. I set the ON time to about 600 ms and the PW so there is about 3 V (1.9 A) to keep it engaged. So far I have not noticed it even getting warm.



I am going to build a PWM using a TI DRV101T (that's right, DRV101T) and have that drive a Polaris relay (4012829) which in turn will control the solenoid. This configuration should be the same as what Polaris uses on there X2 machines. I will also mount the DRV101T in the headlight pod which will be smaller in size to the SDM950 that's currently there.

Too expensive a mod for me right now. I need new tires first.
 

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Discussion Starter #42 (Edited)
Anybody working on installing turf mode to there XP's?


I am going to build a PWM using a TI DRV101T (that's right, DRV101T) and have that drive a Polaris relay (4012829) which in turn will control the solenoid. This configuration should be the same as what Polaris uses on there X2 machines. I will also mount the DRV101T in the headlight pod which will be smaller in size to the SDM950 that's currently there.
I built a circuit with the DRV101T based on input I got on the RZR forum. I could not make it work reliably. In the midst of that, I discovered the SDM950 so I switched to that.

Why do you want the DRV101T version? Would it be less expensive? Since you have to buy the Polaris relay, that would factor into the cost.

I adjusted my SDM to max engage time and turned the power down to 20%. It works flawlessly and does not get warm. I have used it for about 1000 miles so far.

Good luck with your project - I would like to hear about it.

-curt


PS: Putting the power module in the headlight Pod is a great idea. I'm a little surprised that it will fit in there. Thats a better location than mine. (though I have had zero problems).
 

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Discussion Starter #43
I struggle to understand how you think a locked front diff will turn fine if the rear is open. The outside wheel still needs to turn more revolutions on the front. When it can't the common scrub and hard turn are still going to exist. Two open diffs are the only way you will have a scrub free easy turn without tearing up the turf.

My understanding of the way the Hilliard system works in the front "differential" is that it is not really a "differential" like the rear differential on the X2. So when AWD is ON and the real wheels go faster than the front - then the Hilliard engages to drive ONE or BOTH of the front wheels.

BUT.. when engaged, either wheel can still turn faster than it is being driven. (like the outside wheel in a turn). A true differential that is locked cannot do this. Both wheels are locked to turn at the same speed.

In other words, the front "diff" does not inhibit a turn at all. The outside wheel will turn faster because it can always go faster than its being driven but not slower because of the action of the Hilliard.

So... If I am right about this, then Easystreet's objection re scrub would simply not happen.

Easystreet's declaration that it will still "turn terrible" is wrong. It turns smoothly with no scrub - always.

In practice, it does seem to operate as I describe.

I have another observation - next post.

-curt
 

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Discussion Starter #44 (Edited)
The idea drive configuration

With 1000 miles on my turf mode conversion, I find that I want to leave it set:

+Rear-diff unlocked (turf mode on)
+AWD ON.

I leave it like this almost all the time now. When I am in really challenging terrain or snow, I do lock the rear axle but infrequently. In this configuration I have awesome traction and super easy steering.

Note that configuration is the way almost all cars/SUVs work! Their AWD systems do not have a rear diff lock. There are only a few exceptions to this - like my new Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk.

I am so impressed by the handling when set as above, that I have ordered the electronic parts to make a manual control for my X2. The X2 does not have a setting for AWD ON and Turf Mode ON. With the manual override added, I will be able to do that. My experience is that I will leave the rear unlocked almost always.
 

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I can't even hook up in 4wd on my quad much less one! I think it's a cool idea though. I just turned 24 years young on the 8th and even I like as light of steering as possible. I'm sure for many people its a great option. The 570 rzr my dad was looking at had the turf mode, he really liked that, but ended up with the 800 xc.
I bet the quad doesn't have as much tendancy to slide sideways with the rear unlocked, could actually be quite handy to have the front pulling the direction you want to go and the rear not sliding side to side. Anyways, cool project man
 

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I have an X2 and can see this mod very usefull to those that do not have this option. I live in a subdivision that is out in the country. I use the turf mode while running the streets through the neighborhood. It helps on tire wear, ring and pinion wear, and axle stress on the streets getting to and from my trails. I also use it when spiking my yard for seed (low range for the water filled heavy spiker). Also another great reason is for belt wear and tear. I take my kids camping on some 50 miles of trails into the mountains. I like leaving the diff open and not having to stop if the hill is a little steep for the load. I can leave it in high and keep the momentum rather than having to stop to put it in low range and worry about burning a belt. The diff will slip before the belt. It obviously depends on your riding conditions imo. I recommend it for full out utility use.
 

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Anybody working on installing turf mode to there XP's?


I am going to build a PWM using a TI DRV101T (that's right, DRV101T) and have that drive a Polaris relay (4012829) which in turn will control the solenoid. This configuration should be the same as what Polaris uses on there X2 machines. I will also mount the DRV101T in the headlight pod which will be smaller in size to the SDM950 that's currently there.
I built a circuit with the DRV101T based on input I got on the RZR forum. I could not make it work reliably. In the midst of that, I discovered the SDM950 so I switched to that.

Why do you want the DRV101T version? Would it be less expensive? Since you have to buy the Polaris relay, that would factor into the cost.

I adjusted my SDM to max engage time and turned the power down to 20%. It works flawlessly and does not get warm. I have used it for about 1000 miles so far.

Good luck with your project - I would like to hear about it.

-curt


PS: Putting the power module in the headlight Pod is a great idea. I'm a little surprised that it will fit in there. Thats a better location than mine. (though I have had zero problems).
I have seen circuits on these forums based on the TI DRV102T (not the DRV101T that I am going to build). It was tight getting it mounted in there but it's there.

I figured that some people were having a hard time buying the SDM950 that one could build the same circuit that I am going to try and save about 50 to 75% on size so it would be easier to install in the headlight pod. I also have the Polaris wireless module mounted in there.

From the specs I have seen for the solenoid both in Polaris service manuals and the sticker on the solenoid says not to exceed engage (12 V) time of not more than 1 sec. At almost $200 for a replacement solenoid the last thing I want to do is stress it more than it needs to be. The specs also say the HOLD voltage should be 3 V which is were I have my PW set at.

As far as cost goes the SDM950 is about $110.
The Polaris relay is $40.00
Parts to build the DRV101T should be around $30 to $50.

In the long run I figure it would be cheaper to build the DRV101T than have to worry if the folks who sell the SDM950 will sell you one.

Always looking for more comments/suggestions.
 

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I am another one to say turf mode is well worth the cost, where we ride, there are some paved roads we ride on that connect all of the county trails together, disengaging the rear diff makes it handle like a dream. I don't have the option to run turf mode and AWD at the same time as my machine was factory equipped with turf mode, so I can't comment on that aspect of it, but I have never noticed any type of extreme binding or "tire scrub" even in AWD. I notice the difference in steering radius before I see my lawn getting disturbed.
 

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I am another one to say turf mode is well worth the cost, where we ride, there are some paved roads we ride on that connect all of the county trails together, disengaging the rear diff makes it handle like a dream. I don't have the option to run turf mode and AWD at the same time as my machine was factory equipped with turf mode, so I can't comment on that aspect of it, but I have never noticed any type of extreme binding or "tire scrub" even in AWD. I notice the difference in steering radius before I see my lawn getting disturbed.
And also saving the wear and tear on tires and drive train.
 

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I finally got a PWM circuit built that works for the turf mode mod for anybody who wants to build there own instead of spending $110.00 on the SDM950.

This circuit uses the DRV101T (not the DRV102T) which is a low side power switch that feeds a Polaris electronic relay. The Polaris electronic relay feeds the high current to the solenoid at approx. 10 amps for about 1 second then the PWM drops it to about 2 amps. The DRV101T (and DRV102T) is only spec'd at 2.3 amps so it can not drive the solenoid directly.

For those of you who want to use the SDM950 I will be uploading a diagram which I believe is the best method to wire the module.
 

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touring vs. not

We have a 2012 550 touring and a 2013 550, both are eps. The touring turns nicely on pavement, where the short one doesn't, it wants to push. Is there a difference in the rear ends? From what I read it looks like I really want turf mode for one not the other. thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #52
We have a 2012 550 touring and a 2013 550, both are eps. The touring turns nicely on pavement, where the short one doesn't, it wants to push. Is there a difference in the rear ends? From what I read it looks like I really want turf mode for one not the other. thanks
The 550 xp is not turf mode unless it was an international (europe) model.
THe touring - I don't know. Touring used to have Turf Mode but then they dropped it. (big mistake). If it has turf mode, there should be a turf mode switch on the handlebar and there is a black solenoid sticking out from the left/lower side of the rear gearcase.

If the touring is more civilized but does not have Turf Mode, it might be just the longer wheelbase.

Either can be converted by changing the gearcase for one that has a differential. You also have to add the electric control circuit.
 

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Thanks for the help, I don't think the touring has the turf mode, but it handles way better, must be the length. The XP really needs it!
 

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I know this is an old topic but the turf mode is the way to go. I have the X2 with turf and a XP and a new 570 without. No matter what trails are ridden the turf mode does make for a much better ride. It just flat out turns better and with so much less effort. Turf ought to be on all models no matter what they are.

Ronnie
 

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Curious if this would work on the newer Touring 16 models.


What I saw Fredbear struggling with was push in loose snow etc. It never really dawned on me that much of this was the rear diff. but then it clicked. I have a diff lock on my Deere 455 garden tractor. I use it on occasion when tilling gardens etc, but if I forget to release it or it sticks the tractor simply will not steer it just pushes forward.

My perfect unit is not made, but I'd prefer

850 touring
turf mode rear
camo color,
EPS,
and I'd really like a true differential with selectable locking in front as well
 

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Why are we making a PWM? The X2 uses the same wiring harness. If you buy a throttle assembly from an X2, a solid state relay from an X2, and a turf mode rear diff from an X2 it should be plug and play. The only component that is different is the Cluster. Is the PWM built into the X2 cluster?
 
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