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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I wanted to go this route in case I ever decided to remove the hydraulic rear brakes and go back to the original.

I know many have done this before, and while I have a welder, I was looking to just cut and drill process to make this work. I used a grinder a lot to make the bracket and wound up taking off the guard and getting an oversized wheel to reach tough areas.

Parts list:

Overall, my 8-year old son just has to slightly pull on the handle to lock up the rear. A much needed upgrade.

  • Remove:
  • Tire
  • Hub
  • spacer sleeve
  • drum brake, cable and handle assembly, and inner axle seal.
  • Print off this pdf template and trace the outline on a piece of steel. Only cut the outside.
  • Dry fit it over the axles like in this pic. If it clears good and covers the 2 main mounting bolt holes, then take a marker and mark from the inside hole onto the metal plate. I used a stubby Sharpie for clearance.
  • First drill a starter hole so it doesn’t move on you much (I used a ¼”)
  • Then, using a stepper drill bit, drill a hole that will clear the M12 bolt.
  • If the bolt looks like it will just fit, but gets stuck, flip over the plate and drill through the back to clean up any lip. I used this Titanium High Speed Steel Step Bit, 1 Pc.
  • Drill the top hole for the caliper mount only to clear M8 bolt (5/16”)
  • Mount the bracket using a single bolt. Get it lined up and tightened. Then mark through the second hole onto the plate. Follow the same procedures to fill that hole up.
  • 145715
  • Mount new disc rotor onto brake rotor mount.
  • Slide rotor and mount onto the hub (disc first).

  • Install the caliper over the rotor (bleeder facing inside of machine)
  • Ensure that the brake pads cover enough of the rotor
  • If not, remove bracket and grind down area so caliper clears.
  • Remount bracket and rotor.
  • Install single bolt. If it doesn’t clear, expand the hole in the bracket some.
  • Remove caliper, rotor and bracket
  • Hold caliper up to bracket, and install bolt
  • Mark the second hold, through caliper onto bracket and drill last caliper mount.
  • Reinstall:
    • Bracket
    • Rotor and mount
    • 145717
  • Install new brake lever assembly
    • I removed the line at the caliper and fed it through from the front to the back.
    • You will need to cut the grip off in order to slide the old brake mount off, or you can just break the mount and leave the stock grip on.
    • I was replacing with ODI grips so didn’t matter to me.
    • Cut the two wires going into old brake, and install new terminals . Pic
  • Cut black axle spacer sleeve (approx. 1”), but cut less and re-measure so you don't overcut
    • I slid on the disc hub, the put on the rear hub to measure between them and then cut the spacer sleeve to fit.
    • 145713
    • Mount the rear tire
  • Install brake line to caliper and bleed. (I used a small silver washer in pic to properly space. reminder, your axle can slide left to right based on depth of axle nuts to help fine tune).
  • 145719
    • You will either need to pump and bleed a LOT or unbolt the caliper from the bracket and angle it up so bleeder is at the highest point.
    • Crack open the bleeder, squeeze in the lever (don’t let go) and tighten. I did this 2x and all the air was gone.
    • If you get one of these, they’re life savers. They have a valve so you don’t need to constantly open/close the bleeder
    • https://www.amazon.com/Allstar-Perf...ocphy=9013144&hvtargid=pla-448887493813&psc=1
  • You should be done, unless you want to adjust brake lever handle for smaller hands.
  • When I originally bent in the stock brake lever and the 4th bend, it snapped.
Hope this helps and message me if any questions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Do you have an updated link to the rotor mou t? And btw that was amazing work. And have you updated the front brakes?
I didn’t change the front brakes. That would be a lot more complicated, but I did put a spacer to push the lever closer to the grip and that works well.


This fits multiple eton bikes. I think a 50, 70, 90 Ave maybe a 150. If you are able, the other option is to just cut up your drum and bolt a rotor to that.
 

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I am very thankful for you posting this! Parts are not spendy at all and were accessable! My question is I got the rotor hub and a disc but no screw/bolts to connect the disc to the rotor. Where did you source those or did they come already assembled?
Cheers!
 

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I am very thankful for you posting this! Parts are not spendy at all and were accessable! My question is I got the rotor hub and a disc but no screw/bolts to connect the disc to the rotor. Where did you source those or did they come already assembled?
Cheers!
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Thank you FPD! Late to this show but the info has been great! My only hang up is the bolts that hold the disc to the rotor. They are not conventional Dia/size. I pulled a set out of an old Honda 400ex hub and they are smaller than what the Eton hub requires. They are infact size thread pitch of the bolts that hold on the tire to the hub.
 
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