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Hope my experience can help someone else.

Polaris kept the theme of "what were they thinking" for stuff like the battery when they designed the valve cover and that heat shield.

So anyway, decided to do mine at 2600 miles/130 hours or so. The spec on exhuast .008 +- .002, and mine are at .010 (perfect! because they usually tighten up). The intake spec is .006 +- .002, and mine was .004 and .001 (sucks).

Remove the clutch cover, as you will need to turn the engine to get to TDC.

So, the first thing to know is getting the valve cover off. I didn't remove the front plastic or fuel tank, so removing the cover and parts were difficult.

The valve cover has 3 T40 torx fasteners. You need to have a 90 degree torx key to get the 2 off the top on the right side. The left side can be done with a T40 bit on a ratchet..Note.be careful!! These screw into the cam carrier and head. You can only partially remove these and install with the T40 90 degree key and must use your fingers to completely remove/install.

Remove the spark plug, and then set it back in the hole (do not tighten). This way you can still turn the clutch but it will block if something should fall when you are working.

Remove the fuel injector from the head. Don't disconnect the fuel line, just disconnect the power connector and set it aside.

If you need to remove the carrier to adjust them, you will need to remove the timing chain tensioner. Set the engine at TDC, and mark a spot on each cam where a specific chain link is. You want to do this to make it easy to re-install the cam at the same place you removed it (it would have been nice if the cam gear had holes, you could use a zip tie). The chain will NOT fall off the bottom, so don't freak if it falls (but try not to).

To get to the chain tensioner, you must remove the air box, throttle body, and intake manifold. Just disconnect the connectors needed, and move the throttle to the side. Don't mess with your cable.

Use a adjustable wrench to remove the tensioner. It's not very tight.

To remove the buckets, use a magnet.

For the 3 valve cover bolts, test installing these by hand before installing after the cover. You must be able to easily finger tighten them without any resistance. Be absolutely sure you do not cross thread these. I had to take my bolts and run a 6MMx 1.00MM die over the bolts and a 6MMx1.00MM tap on the carrier (take my word, do this before installing the carrier!).

When you install new buckets, be sure to coat the cam journals, outside of the buckets, and top of the buckets with some assembly lube.

When re-installing the carrier. torque to 84 inch pounds (the spec is 7 foot pounds). Use the sequence in the service manual. Note-This is a very critical measurement, so I don't trust harbor freight torque wrenches. I used a gear wrench electronic one(Tool on Amazon). Unfortunately this one doesn't have a ratchet, so it can be difficult to get enough swing..But I did it.

In the service manual it recommends changing the valve cover gasket. It was $33. Looked fine to me for $33. So I coated the cover and the head with Permatex permashield (like hylomar) to help it seal. I replaced the rubber seals on the valve cover bolts (also a smear of permashield).
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