It does not require a special tool, turn the carb upside down, make sure the float yoke arms are level with the body of the carb. Replace the needle and seat.

 

This is great help, thank you!

 

The needle and seat is worn. Any Chinese rebuild kit will have a needle that will work. It’s a little piece with a pointy rubber ish tip, and when the bowl is full the floats push the needle Into the seat and stop fuel flow. Once the bowl empties as it runs, the floats lower with the fuel level and the needle comes away from the seat allowing more fuel to flow in, and you get the point. A worn needle and/or seat won’t stop fuel flow and the fuel level will rise above the overflow and flow out the bottom of the carb and possibly run rough.

 

Thanks scrappy. I've rebuilt a few carbs, and was surprised to see the manual call for a caliper to measure float height.

 

The OEM carb probably just needs the o-ring #40 under the needle seat replaced. Part number 3130533 And/or the needle valve assembly #39. Part number 3130531 They are expensive bought individually from Polaris, but you can get an entire carb kit from Shindy and others for around $25
Forget about trying to make a cheap Chinese junk carb work. They seldom do.

 

Agreed, especially on the cheap China carbs. I have yet to replace one on an ATV that worked properly. If it did work okay, it didn't last for long. I replaced one on an Arctic Cat ATV I used to own and it ran well right up to just after the warranty expired. So I pulled the float bowl and was astonished to find metal shavings in the bottom, and lots of it too. The only way I can see that happening is either someone deliberately did that, or they installed the float bowl on with the carb above their head. No way all that metal shavings could have remained in there if the float bowl was turned upside down, as one would expect, during assembly.

Have a neighbor down the road that purchased a China carb for his ATV. It cuts out and barely runs now.

Also, I have purchased and installed many cheap China carbs for small engine equipment that I have worked on for other people. One of which is a friend. I told him that I could get a new OEM carb for that piece of equipment but it would cost him ~ $100.00. I gave him the option of taking a $25.00 chance on a cheap China carb. He chose the latter. I installed the China carb and it ran fairly well at first but it only made it about an hour before it went belly up. I was there when he was running it when it died.

I do not recommend a cheap China carb for anything. Much better off buying an OEM carb, even though they are more expensive. Buy once, cry once.

Cheap China carburetors are so problematic (reads junk) that I will no longer purchase them or install them for anyone.

 

Thanks again. I have been using non-ethanol the last year and a half after reading posts by you and Latebird. It's all I use on all my stuff now (except my truck and my '88 bow rider.)

 

Isn't the CFMoto all Chinese parts? I see quite a few around here including somes friends of mine own them, they are carbureted, they seem to have no issues with their carbs.

 

The carbs on those CFMoto machines are designed specifically for the machines they're installed on. How good they are or how long they last I can not say. I would assume they probably make sure those machines will run before they ship them out. The cheap generic carbs found on Amazon and ebay for $25 that are advertised to "fit", most likely will. They may "fit" the machines they're advertised for but fitting onto the machine and working correctly once installed are two TOTALLY different things.

 

I tie down empty Gatorade bottle to bottom frame and let them drain down to gatorade bottle when it gets full pour back to your fuel tank and keep riding and enjoy 😂 👍

 

And this is why I will never buy Polaris again... Ridiculus that this happens continuously even AFTER rebuilding the carb twice. Back to Honda or CanAm for me. At least I know I won't have to rebuild the carb every year

 

You shouldn't have to rebuild the carb every year. I'm not trying to be mean, but the reality is that a properly rebuilt carburetor should work fine for many years. There are lots of great videos out there about how to set the needle and floats. To be honest, that o-ring and really is the only thing that needs to be swapped out if the fuel leak is your only problem. Most kits come with the needles and some with the floats. Easy to replace. As long as you don't bend anything when removing, you shouldn't have to measure the floats with a caliper. The only time I measured, I did it with a small ruler.