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Discussion Starter #1
I did a bunch of research in the forums but still have a persistent issue that boggles me.

2001 sportsman 500
new battery
new voltage regulator
regulator -At idle I get 13.5-13.75 .....When revving it goes up as it should
Battery - I get 12.5-12.75 (about 1 full volt less) when revving it will go up a little (about .25 higher)
With headlight on and revving voltage slowly drops at battery, but not at voltage regulator.

I cant find anything wrong with the wiring between battery and regulator.

Any ideas and help are greatly appreciated
 

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Test your stator first. 3 yellow wires. Should be continuity between any 2 of the 3 of them but nothing to ground
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If my regulator is putting out the voltage shouldn't that mean my stator is doing its job ?

I can't seem to locate the three yellow wires/plug coming out of the engine.
And my rectifier only has 2 yellow then 1 red and 1 brown
 

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You have a single phase rectifier and stator - you should have 30 to 45 volts AC between the two yellow wires at the rec/reg with the engine running about 2500 RPM - you could have a bad battery not accepting charge - or you might have a stator with a short to ground giving you AC voltage riding on the DC which will register an increase in display voltage and discharge the battery at the same time - batteries do not like AC
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for your reply Latebird.
I do have 35 volts AC between the yellow wires.
And I'm getting 13.75-14 DC volts exiting the rec/reg , but less at the battery.
Even less when I turn on headlights.
Shouldn't the system show more charging with my lights on ?
 

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No - 14.8 is the max, but you should have the same voltage at the battery wire as the rec/reg wire

Unplug the red wire at the rec/reg and test for battery voltage on it - if there is a break in the wire or a bad connection you might have voltage wanting to get to the battery without a clear road to get there.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well, I just went to go test it again and I seem to be getting the same voltage at the battery as the rectifier. But, the new problem is when I rev it up it will go up to 16.5 to 17 V and stay there after RPMs come back down. Does this mean that I toasted the rectifier? Are they that sensitive to some testing?


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It means you have a bad regulator - the rectifier changes the AC from the stator into DC and the regulator limits the DC to 14.8 volts to prevent overcharging the battery (which will damage it) and if the voltage is totally unregulated, it will burn out the lights and other accessories.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
UPDATE :
Finally got my replacement reg/rec. ESR951 from ElectroSport

Installed it and nothing changed.
-While idling I get 13.2-13.5v
-When I raise rpm's, volts will rise also and when they get to about 14.5 they jump up to 16.5 and keep going up (more steadily)
-If I turn on my lights then voltage starts to decline steadily

I have correct readings when I test the stator ....
-1 ohm resistance between yellow wires (engine off)
- about 35 volts AC (engine on)

Why is the regulator not regulating ?
Could it be that this rectifier/regulator is not correct for my machine ?

I'm pulling my hair out
 

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Rec/reg are such simple devices (electrically speaking) - the basics is a bridge of diodes to change the AC from the alternator to DC and the regulator is a FET limiting the voltage to the battery to 14.8 volts. There are variations on the regulator, but the rectifier portion stays the same. A rec/reg from a Honda motorcycle or Kawasaki ATV can be adapted to work on anything. I installed a Honda unit on a Linhai (Chinese Yamaha) scooter because it was readily available and cheap. I just had to change the plug so it would connect to the wiring harness. It's physical size was about the same and the mounting bolt holes had the same spacing.

Biggest reason for a regulator to not work is a faulty ground - could be a battery terminal connection, a frame connection or a faulty wire in the wiring harness. It could also be an alternator winding shorting to ground causing AC to backfeed to the battery. In that case the voltage would be high, but the battery will discharge while running and while it does not affect the lights, AC on the DC will mess with ignition of DC CDI systems and electronic displays.

Did you check the stator windings to ground? Should be infinite.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Rec/reg are such simple devices (electrically speaking) - the basics is a bridge of diodes to change the AC from the alternator to DC and the regulator is a FET limiting the voltage to the battery to 14.8 volts. There are variations on the regulator, but the rectifier portion stays the same. A rec/reg from a Honda motorcycle or Kawasaki ATV can be adapted to work on anything. I installed a Honda unit on a Linhai (Chinese Yamaha) scooter because it was readily available and cheap. I just had to change the plug so it would connect to the wiring harness. It's physical size was about the same and the mounting bolt holes had the same spacing.

Biggest reason for a regulator to not work is a faulty ground - could be a battery terminal connection, a frame connection or a faulty wire in the wiring harness. It could also be an alternator winding shorting to ground causing AC to backfeed to the battery. In that case the voltage would be high, but the battery will discharge while running and while it does not affect the lights, AC on the DC will mess with ignition of DC CDI systems and electronic displays.

Did you check the stator windings to ground? Should be infinite.
I did check the stater to ground and the reading is zero on both yellow wires.

From the information you have given I would first think the alternator shorting to ground because like I said when I turn the lights on the voltage at the battery steadily drops lower and lower.
But, I don’t have any other electronic display problems so maybe this is not the issue.

Is there anyway to check this condition?

With a little further inspection I did discover that the stater cover has been removed once before because there is rtv in place of the gasket and the top bolt is broken off. (Most likely from over torque)

I guess I will need to open it up and see if there’s a bad connection in the stator area.



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Discussion Starter #14
If you measure zero ohms to ground, the stator needs replaced
Thanks for your expert assistance latebird.
I misunderstood the procedure, by thinking that getting a 0 reading I was OK.
Obviously that's not the case. I know now that I should get 'no reading whatsoever'.

Time to spend some money on a new stator.
I will update afterwards. (might be a while, lol)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Update.... and question
I received my new stator and I flywheel ( I bought an upgraded flywheel from RMStator )
Question - Do you guys think I should use a dab of thread locker on the bolts that hold the stator in place or is it needed ?
I really dont want those things coming loose.

Thanks in advance
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Update.....
I completed my new stator and flywheel installation and went for a long test ride yesterday.
Everything seems to be working perfectly.

Thank you latebird for all your knowledge and help.

Now i want to see if I can soften up the suspension because it seems really stiff and bouncy at higher speeds.
 

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Great news - glad to hear it is repaired and functioning

As to the stiff suspension and bouncy at high speed, how much air do you have in the tires? Std inflation is about 4 PSI. It will get bouncy at both lower and higher pressure depending on other factors. Tire pressure above 8 psi is dangerously high and can cause a loss of control.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
The tires are labeled max operating pressure of 14psi so I used this as a starting point. I was running at 8-10psi.
I will lower to 4 and try again. Will this give me risk of breaking the bead ?
 
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