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Discussion Starter #1
My sister-in-law has been begging us to go four wheeling for some time. She has an old Trail Boss that I pushed out of her shed this afternoon. Haven't tried to start it as the battery was dead and didn't have time to put it on a charger. She says it ran previously "awhile ago".

Guessing it is a 95 model and wondering if it would be worth having a shop give it a once over. She can't find any paperwork for it. Not even sure where the VIN is on these. Aren't these a 2-stroke?
Any information would be helpful.
 

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Yes the 250 is a 2 stroke. Where in NW Illinois are you? I am between Lena and Freeport. I can work on it cheaper than the shop. Send me a PM if you want some help.
On the older ones, you can find the VIN on the frame up behind the right front tire. Newer ones with the 17 digit VIN will be on the bottom left frame rail just behind the LF tire.
 

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The part number on the gearbox indicates it was installed on 95 Trail Blazer and 95 - 99 Trail Boss 250

For the 95/96 models, look for the model number on the RH frame tube around or below the shift lever - it will start with W followed by 95 or 96 followed by the 4 digit model number 8527 - on the 97-99 models it will be a 17 digit VIN on the LH lower frame tube in front of the floorboard and behind the front wheel
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I will try and go down and hose it off Thursday. I will look for the VIN then. So what kind of fuel mixture does this require? Doesn't sound like it would be easy to run it down the Cheese Trail without bringing it's own gas. Is there somewhere you can find a owner's manual for these?

stave7119 - I was thinking of dropping it off at Full Throttle in Lena, but I will keep your offer in mind. It's not mine, but I saw another thread on here, where kayakextreme had a similar machine with a $2200 estimate. Hoping that it just needs a battery, fluids and a filter, but it has been sitting for sometime.
 

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Fuel oil ratio should be about 20:1 - if it has the oil pump in place and operational, all you need is gas in the gas tank and injector oil in the oil tank.

I found an owners manual for a 2003 model, but nothing older.

stave might be your best option for the older model repairs - the kids in the dealership don't know anything about carbs - the new crop of mechanics only know fuel injection and computers - if they can't plug a computer into it, they can't fix it
 

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I work part time at Full Throttle building the side by sides. The kids in the shop do know their stuff. We work on this kind of stuff all the time. The shop foreman is Mike and he has been around for a long time. Very capable young men. Most likely needs a battery and carb cleaning which would be pretty reasonable. If its more than that let me know, I just live about 10 minutes from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
stave7119 I hope so. I have been happy with Full Throttle with servicing mine so far.

Any ideas on where I could find a owner's manual for this. I really don't know much about these older 2-strokes and never heard of one that mixes itself. Would make it easier for her to ride the trails.
 

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The oil injected 2 strokes have been around for quite a while and are very reliable. While you are in there, look at the flyer for the Southern Wisconsin Guided Trail Ride that I put on the bulletin board in the showroom. Middleton fall rides are coming up next month. Dan puts on a great Ride, all on private property! You can also find it on Facebook.
 

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I work part time at Full Throttle building the side by sides. The kids in the shop do know their stuff. We work on this kind of stuff all the time. The shop foreman is Mike and he has been around for a long time. Very capable young men. Most likely needs a battery and carb cleaning which would be pretty reasonable. If its more than that let me know, I just live about 10 minutes from there.
stave - everyone knows I have a bad attitude and here's why I have the opinion about the 'kids' who man the shops:

I hired a guy who graduated MMI - I thought he was a trained mechanic - I found out he was a trained student - he knew which way to turn nuts and bolts - he knew the difference between a #2 and #3 phillips screws and had heard of posi-drive, but he knew nothing of point type ignition and was baffled when he had to work on an early model Kawasaki Ninja with electronic ignition. The early Ninja used an Ignition Control Module (electronic set of points) to operate the ignition. Some Polaris models use the same design of ignition that is described as CDI although it is not CDI. Once he understood how a point type ignition worked, then he could understand how the ECM system worked, but he still wanted a diagnostic tool to plug into it to determine what the problem was instead of using his brain to figure it out.

I spent 3 years training him and then he decided he didn't like working on motorcycles and ATV's - when he left, I looked for someone to replace him, but when I found that I was getting things done faster without an 'employee' to interrupt me, I quit looking.

Have you noticed that the kids manning the cash registers at various places of business can't make change without the display showing what the change should be?
 

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Yeah, I understand your frustration....For the most part the younger kids just don't have the experience that we older guys do. They have never seen point style ignition and have no idea what a dwell meter is for. Since the technology is so outdated that I am not sure it even gets taught in the schools. The 20 somethings have never worked on anything that wasn't computer controlled. Both these pony tail kids are pretty sharp. Both local kids that I think did graduate from MMI or a similar school. There is an older guy in the shop too, but he does mostly oil changes and easier stuff. Kids have rebuild some engines and transmissions and we get all brands of machines in the shop, not just Polaris. Scooters, Bikes, Snowmobiles, ATV and UTV

And the head of the shop, Mike, is closer to my age and has been around it for a while. Spends a lot of time on the phone telling people how to fix their stuff.
 

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Lucky You those old 250's are my favorite.
You will need the two clutch pullers if you have to change the starter.
Not too tough you can Youtube the entire process.
Plug the intake to the oil injector pump and mix the oil and gas yourself.
The old oil pump gives less and less oil as they wear...then you loose compression.
They all do it.
I Use a 50:1
Just looking @ the picture I would guess the age to be a 94 to 99 model.
Remove the little trunk under the flap in the back and stick in a lawn mower battery .
You will have to change the cables too.
Most parts are on the Ebay like a new carb is 30$
Mud in your eye.

Polaris the original CVT
 

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I have a 2000 Xplorer 250 4x4...2 cycle...Does the oiler pump feed the head directly?...which it does have a oiler line to the back of the head.
..or is it suppose to hook to the carburetor somewhere... Rebuilding one that was kind of a basket case and want to make sure I have the oiler running correctly..Thanks In advance
 

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I have a 2000 Xplorer 250 4x4...2 cycle...Does the oiler pump feed the head directly?...which it does have a oiler line to the back of the head.
..or is it suppose to hook to the carburetor somewhere... Rebuilding one that was kind of a basket case and want to make sure I have the oiler running correctly..Thanks In advance
Just answered your other thread... directly to the head.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I am thinking about loading it up and taking it to Lena today. The sister-in-law told me this morning that it ran last fall before being put in the shed, so it has sat for about a year. Would it be safe to pull start it and load it on a trailer or should I just push it on there? She also thinks someone put mixed gas in it last year sometime, but isn't sure. No idea if anyone used a fuel stabilizer in it or not. She didn't know about it having an oil injector.
 

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Plug the intake to the oil injector pump and mix the oil and gas yourself.
The old oil pump gives less and less oil as they wear...then you loose compression.
They all do it. I Use a 50:1
Don't use a 50:1 ratio unless you just like to rebuild crankshafts - the more oil you can run without fouling spark plug; the more power the engine will produce and the longer it will last - using a synthetic two stroke oil means less smoke as synthetics do not burn during the combustion process, but because synthetic oil does not burn it means the exhaust will run wet and will drip splooge (splooge is a mixture of oil, carbon, soot and other combustion by-products - it is black, gooey and hard to remove).

For engines with cast iron cylinder liners (your 250) and using mineral oil, run a 20 or 24:1 fuel to oil ratio or if using a premium synthetic oil, 28 to 30:1 ratio - for engines with plated cylinders, you can run 30 or 32:1 and with premium synthetic 40:1 - use non-ethanol fuel unless you are using an oil that will mix with alcohol. Get your gas at a boat dock - most states ban the use of ethanol fuel in boat motors as the ethanol is poisonous to marine life - or search out ethanol free retailers in your area. Our local Casey's General Store has 91 octane ethanol free gasoline. Prior to Casey's offering, I was using 94 octane VP Racing SEF @ $20 a gallon in all my seasonal and stand-by engines. Ethanol blended fuel is only good for about 3 weeks before the ethanol starts separating from the gas and the non-ethanol fuel is good for more than 100 days depending on storage conditions.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Well hosed the dust off it and found the VIN# on the frame below the gear shifter. W958527 so 1995 model 8527 right? Anyway didn't appear to have much, if any gas in it and no oil either. So I pushed it onto a trailer and hauled it to Full Throttle.

He said it looked to be in really good shape. Here's hoping all it needs is filters, gas, oil, possibly a battery and maybe a bit of brake fluid to get it running again. I was told they are really busy and I told him no rush. He did say something about checking the compression on it, however you do that. Stave let me know if you get to work on it and maybe give me an update or two on here.

Now if I can just find an owner's manual for the thing.
 

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Well hosed the dust off it and found the VIN# on the frame below the gear shifter. W958527 so 1995 model 8527 right? Anyway didn't appear to have much, if any gas in it and no oil either. So I pushed it onto a trailer and hauled it to Full Throttle.

He said it looked to be in really good shape. Here's hoping all it needs is filters, gas, oil, possibly a battery and maybe a bit of brake fluid to get it running again. I was told they are really busy and I told him no rush. He did say something about checking the compression on it, however you do that. Stave let me know if you get to work on it and maybe give me an update or two on here.

Now if I can just find an owner's manual for the thing.
.

I won't be working on it. They have young kids in the shop for that. I am retired so I just build the side by sides and drive the truck. All my tools are at home in my shop. I can keep track of it for you thought. Compression test is done with a gauge threaded into the cylinder head then cranking the engine.
 
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