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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I'm a newbie here, and I was wondering if anybody has used Niche cams in their quads. I'm looking at fixing up the farm's old Magnum 500 (1999 I think) that died some time ago. It was a good quad, but it needs a new cam, the recoil needs to be rebuilt (pulled out and won't go in), it needs a new starter and battery and maybe a couple other things I'm missing. It was running when parked, and by the time we got through pricing out parts with the dealer, it was cheaper to buy a new 500 to replace it. I'd like to try and fix it as it would be very useful, but I don't have the $$ to do it through the dealer. I've been looking online, mostly Amazon, and there seems to be a gold mine of cheap parts for this thing. As long as they are of decent quality, I'd be game for picking up a few things and slowly working on it over the course of several months amongst other projects.

Nothing will take place soon, but I'd like to see if anybody else used products of this brand, and what your thoughts are on it.

Thank you
 

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I have and worked just fine , I also used the top end kit on a 500 sportsman and it was good , they were good to order from ,that's was 2 or 3 years ago and the customer still has and uses the atv
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you Shane! I think I will be going with them for the cam and the rocker arms.

This will be the cam:

https://www.amazon.ca/Niche-Industries-Polaris-Camshaft-1995-2003/dp/B01LDNZJ76/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519346889&sr=8-1&keywords=polaris+magnum+500+cam&dpID=41AFoENvtsL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

And these are the rockers I think I'll go with:

https://www.amazon.ca/Niche-Industries-Polaris-Exhaust-1995-2003/dp/B01LBIO0M8/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1519346952&sr=1-4&keywords=polaris+magnum+500+rocker+arms

These rockers, they're just oem replacements right? It says they're adjustable, the factory ones are adjustable though aren't they?

I'm going to phone around and see if I can buy a service manual for this thing before I purchase these parts and disassemble anything.

Thanks again!
 

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There is no feeling like bringing one back from the dead! You can get a paper Haynes manual for around $40 which will cover just about every 500cc machine. Or you can go digital for less.
Personally, I like the paper copy in the shop. Maybe you can free up the recoil instead of replacing it. We see them at the shop all the time. They get water into the housing and booger up the inside. Take it off and spray in some penetrating lube then keep working it. Might take some time, but if it works you save a lot of $$
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I couldn't agree more! I hate to see it sit and rot away when it used to be such a good machine. I too like to have the paperback manual in front of my face when working, it just seems easier to me. I'll have to pull the recoil off to see the timing marks anyway, so I will definitely lube it up and see if it will retract. Thank you for that suggestion stave! I'm on the hunt for a manual now...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I found this one on Amazon for a pretty good price. It's got mixed reviews like all the other Haynes manuals, but it must give instructions on a cam swap eh? I haven't called the dealership to see if I can get a factory service manual, but I'll go with this one if I can't get from the factory. I've been searching on here for a good write up on a cam replacement, but have come up empty handed. I'll keep searching, and choose a manual for it.

https://www.amazon.ca/Polaris-Atvs-1998-2003-Harold-Ahlstrand/dp/1563925087/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519869211&sr=8-1&keywords=polaris+manual&dpID=51P30YYNH5L&preST=_SX198_BO1,204,203,200_QL40_&dpSrc=src
 

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Yes, that manual will work, however there is a 400, 450, 500 specific manual that would be better. It is more expensive, but covers more years and models though too. I have that manual and the later one that covers through 2007. The 500 specific manual goes into more detail on the electronics and wiring diagrams. This is the one I have......

https://www.amazon.com/Polaris-Sportsman-1996-2013-Manual-Manuals/dp/1599696398/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1519872757&sr=1-1&keywords=Sportsman+500+manual
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hey guys I'm back, I've been working on this off and on well, pretty much forever lol. First off, thank you very much for the link to that manual stave, it covers alot on my quad as well as my Dad's and my brother's. I think its way more in-depth than the other manuals I was looking at.

Now, I've got a question regarding the cam chain tensioner. I followed the procedure in the manual; removed big centre bolt and spring, then loosened the two small bolts that hold it on. I lifted the little lever to retract the plunger all the way, then bolted it back on and put the spring and big centre bolt in last. Is that all? It seems the chain has more slap than before as when I was turning the engine by the flywheel (to recheck rocker arm clearance) it makes a clinking noise like its too loose. Will it tighten up on its own when running, or do I need to manually push it out with a screwdriver and then stuff the spring in?

I still have to put the carb on and the rest of that stuff, but hopefully I can get it done in time to check fences on the pastures.

Thanks guys!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'll be honest, I didn't really think too much about the chain guides I was more worried about keeping the timing correct. Here is a picture of the left (rear) chain guide with the chain tensioner installed. It does sit out from the recess, is this because the tensioner is installed or did I miss something?
 

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Number 21 is the chain guide. It sits in a notch down in the case toward the front of the engine.
Number 24 is the tensioner lever. It is attached at the bottom and swivels out against the chain when pushed by the tensioner.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Update:

First off, thank you polman for the pics and info. I got it back together and fired it up for the first time, finding out there is a few extra kinks to work out.

The first and most important is that it will bog down and almost want to backfire but it never does. It starts really quick, idles nice and smooth, but I can't get past half throttle with it bogging down. It runs smooth up until half throttle.

It has a new Niche Industries carb on it, and I put a clear fuel filter in the line from the valve to the fuel pump. The filter is full of fresh premium.

I adjusted the choke and throttle cables to what I think is proper adjustment with minimal play.

It still bogs down with or without the air filter on, and I can see through the boot with a mirror that the gate valve/jet block thing is moving up and down in relation to the throttle. I did work it with my finger and it goes up and down smooth.

When I pull the choke out it stalls. I took the belt off and ran it just to see if that made a difference, but it didn't.

I replaced the spark plug boot and wire too, its the one that threads on to the ignition coil. The spark plug is old but has good spark.

Valves were adjusted to .006 as the book recommends.

I see there is another thread here and the user took the pulse line off the fuel pump and it ran better. I have a new fuel pump that I can put on if need be, but I'll pull that line off and just see.

Any ideas? I'm so close, yet so far.....
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hey guys, I'm back with a good update. The reason it was bogging down and running poor was because I didn't have the airbox lid on..... I had always tried it without the lid, but I reassembled everything properly and it runs! There is a little hesitation just off idle, but I can live with that. This quad hasn't run in probably five years, and I was wheeling around the yard with it yesterday. Damn good feeling. Anyways, on to my two other issues.

I have a decent drip of antifreeze coming from that weep hole down and behind the water pump cover. From what I can gather, that is the oil/antifreeze seal that is shot. It seems like a hassle to replace, until I stumbled on to a thread about a guy putting a Toyota electric water pump on his 400; completely eliminating all that trouble. If I can find one cheap enough, I think thats the route we might go.

Next thing is the starter solenoid. I've been jumping the starter as well as using the recoil because it won't start off the slide switch on the handle bar. I replaced the solenoid with one the parts guy at Napa cross referenced.... and same thing. I can go with a test light and it lights up when I lift the switch on the handle bar; eliminating that and pointing towards the solenoid or bad wiring. What does the little wire going to the smaller terminal on the right side do? How can I properly test the solenoid? The battery box is kinda rusty, if the solenoid grounds through the box that might be our issue... The starter is a new polaris starter, and it fires right up with a cheesy slow pull of the recoil.
 

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Hey guys I'm back with another update, I know its been awhile but I've finally got it together. Had some trouble with the throttle and choke cables pulling tight when putting the front plastic cover on due to me rerouting them wrong somehow. I didn't even know I did it until I went to put the plastic cover on and the quad would rev up. Got them routed properly, and I'm getting pretty quick at disassembling and reassembling the headlight pod lol. Got a few things yet to do, like check oil in the diffs and the transmission, adjust the rear shock stiffer, see why the winch doesn't work, and figure out why my new solenoid won't work. But, on to more important issues.

For some reason I don't have any top end power. Like, anything past half or two-thirds throttle the engine wants to sputter and backfire a little bit. When I pull the choke out it smooths it out a small bit, but it doesn't do too much. It starts great and idles great, it does seem to have a dead spot just off idle, like when I'm slowly backing up or just getting rolling it wants to cut out and bog down. A couple blips of the throttle gets above it and off we go, until we get to half or a little further throttle. The reverse override works, and I'm going too fast in high range to think that it would have any effects. I'm thinking my new carb might not be so good... It's all new fuel hose from the tank to the pump, and then on to the carb. I put a clear inline filter from the tank valve to the fuel pump originally to make sure I had fuel going out, but also to stop any debris from getting to the fuel pump. The original carb has already been rebuilt once, but it was gummed up so I submerged it in diesel fuel and it seems to be free now. I'm debating just taking it apart and cleaning it and then slapping it back on.

Since I had coolant leaking out of the weep hole and I didn't have the time to pull the motor and replace the mechanical seal I opted for the electric coolant pump mod. I was following poor instructions from the comments on a Youtube video and ended up getting it plumbed in backwards. Got everything turned around and put properly and it seems to work alright. I wouldn't be surprised if the T-stat isn't sticking, as the fan came on a few times and it isn't very warm outside. On the plus side, the fan works! I left the old waterpump alone, but now I'm thinking I should have taken out the impeller as there is a mild rattle from that area. I thought it was the cam chain, but it goes away when you blip the throttle and seems loudest down there. Should I take it out, or would that upset the balance of things? I'll touch on that coolant pump mod in a separate thread when I have more time and P/N's handy.
 
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