I want to make a homemade snorkel kit for my Sportsman 700 but I'm not sure where to start. Anyone have any suggestions...pictures etc.??? :dunno:
mjohnson,I made a kit for my 07 700. You'll need to snorkel the engine intake, and the clutch intake/exhaust vents. While you're doing that I'd suggest rerouting you're breather lines (fr/rr diff., t-case) to one of the clutch vents. There is also a breather hole on the coolant reservior cap. I ended up drilling it out and tapping a breather line to it then running that to a clutch vent as well.
Those are the items that need to be taken care of when building a kit. Other than that. Use you're imagination on where you want your stuff running to. Really, the sky is the limit.
Also, I'd suggest adding a fan kill switch. No sense in burning out a fan motor when trolling around in water..
Thanks for the approval. Took about a week to design, and about another 3 days to install, plus a couple runs to the local river to find the weak areas...mjohnson,
Great work with the snorkels! You mentioned a couple of places that I may have overlooked. Thanks!
One question though, I was under the impression that the fan disengaged when it went underwater. Sort of like the fan clutch on an old car. You can stop them stop your hand. The fan doesn't stop while in the mud or water?
Well, I guess it no longer matters for me because I put the radiator and two (2) fans on the roof of my crew.
Thanks for the insight!
When I was up at Rally Motors picking up my 09 850XP and saw that they had done a snorkel setup on one of their 850XP's. http://www.rallypa.com/How about a snorkel kit (homemade or otherwise) for an '09 Sportsman XP 850?
I understand about where you would put your fan and radiator. You don't have too many options on that little thing. I personally think it is rediculious to have a fan and radiator on these kinds of things! The shoulld be air (or splash) cooled!Thanks for the approval. Took about a week to design, and about another 3 days to install, plus a couple runs to the local river to find the weak areas...
I know exactly what you're saying about the fan being easy to stop, but a couple times in the water I've blown the same 20amp fuse. Not EVERY time I'm deep in the water, but sometimes...perhaps when the fan wanted to kick in??? I'm not sure, but I did look at the wiring schematic and the only thing that stuck out was the fan relay and motor are on that curcuit. The other couple things on the circuit didn't pop out to me as being tempermental in the water.
I've thought about putting my radiator up on the front rack, but I don't want to lose the functionality of the front cubby. Although I have no doubt I could come up with a way to make both work, I also sometimes have friends ride up front if they need to get somewhere..and it's nice to have the extra cargo space if needed..
That sounds a lot easier that filling the connector with dialectic grease and sealing the points where the wire enters the connector with liquid tape.Oh, BTW, we siliconed every electrical connection and joint on the buggy! It looks funky, but hopefully we won't get corrosion or shorts because of it. This was recommended by another friend that used to take his Jeep to the Swamp Buggie Races. So far, so good! If I need to get to that area, a sharp knige and a little scratching with my finger nail uncovers that area. I even found the "ECU". (The Brain) It was hidden behind the wheel fender and side panels! I siliconed the crap out of that!
Ha!That sounds a lot easier that filling the connector with dialectic grease and sealing the points where the wire enters the connector with liquid tape.
Are those bolt holes on your PVC piping? Did you use PVC Glue to seal the pipe? If not, those might be the source of a leak. You still need to silicone the bolts if you haven't already waterproofed them. I am a retired Firefighter/Driver Engineer and I learned that just a pinhole air leak can run the prime of your suction of the firetruck, so even though there is much lower pressure, water will find a way in. What we did was make the piping in sections that could be easily removed in case we need to get to a specific part. We interspersed the PVC with 1" copper pipe and radiator hoses and hose clamps. This way we don't have to disassemble the whole thing for repair. I understand in your case that probably isn't necessary, but check those bolts!That's an interesting concept (silicon). I actually just picked up a tube of dialectric grease with plans to go through all the connects, but maybe I'll take that back and get another tube of silicon instead.
I just went to the river yesterday. Not a bad little run. Played in the water for about 20 min or so. Went about 10 minutes upstream. The entire time the clutch cover was under the water and about half the time the water was above the seat. As I was finishing up, I noticed the belt starting to give way (wet) and what seemed to be a misfire. We got her out of the water and I pulled the clutch cover drain plug and a fair amount of water drained out. Let it idle for a bit to dry and everything was back to normal (except the misfire).
Tomorrow I will likely tear apart the front end and diagnose the bad idle/loss of power, and go over all electrical connections with silicon as well.
I've siliconed the crap out of everything I can see that has to do with the clutch but apparently water can still get in...even though at just a slow rate. Meaning, it is perfectly functional for mud holes or playing in slop, but doesn't meet my standard of being able to park it seat deep in water without issues.
I have an idea that should take care of my 'slow seeping' problem when extended water bogging is expected. Got the idea from my jet ski. The ski is typically waterproof, but in some cases, water gets in the hull and the bildge pump takes care of the issue. I was thinking about taking out the drain plug on the clutch cover and installing a fitting with a hose connected to a mini wet/dry water pump. I'd hook it up to a switch because it won't be needed all the time, just when I intend to play in deep water for a while. The pump would definately have to be capable of running dry, and have enough power to push water against gravity.
What do you guys think?
I would definately put A-arm guards on it and that will cure the problem.I'm sure replacing them gets to be a pain in the butt and expensive.I'll inspect the pipes again.
You should look in to a-arm skid plates... I've seen them for the sportsman so I'm sure there are some available for the ranger
Good Find!Today I tore the beast apart and siliconed the crap out of everything.
I found the issue to the misfire. When I pulled the spark plug wire off the other day, I must have grabbed it by the wire instead of the boot, which coincidently pull the wire further in to the boot (not really noticeable, unless you're looking for it). The wire was able to touch the spark plug with certain vibrations (explains the intermittent full power, then returning to 1 cylinder). I replaced the plugs and reseated the wires.
Before pulling the plugs I noticed there was a ton of mud caked in the hole around the spark plug. I decided to put a bead of high temp silicon around the boot to help keep mud/water out of there.
I finished the day off by siliconing the gauge cluster. The last thing I want is for my digital readout to stop working when going handlebar high in the river...