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Discussion Starter #1
I've cross posted this on a sled forum as well but I figure I'd post here as well since there is bound to be sled knowledge here as well.

I'll start by saying I've never really torn into these engines but am willing to try if not to hard.

I've obviously got a gasket leak and hopefully nothing is cracked.

•She smokes a ton during startup until it finally goes away after a few miles.

•Compression is great at 125PSI

• I'm not seeing coolant buildup in the exhaust pipe. It is clean

•Clutch side cylinder though has some obvious milkshake looking oil in that side exhaust valve.

• Spark plugs are clean and normal

•Coolant loss is not occurring at any noticeable rate

I've heard people talk about head gasket, some small coolant o-rings in the top end, etc. What should I specifically go after first? Please correct any terminology mistakes as well! :) I do have a factory service manual.

Here are some pics of what i saw today. I cleaned up a little bit before I took pic.





Recoil side is normal



I'll also add.. I have had this sled since it was new and it now has about 3K miles on it.

Here are few pics from FSM. Could my issue be one of these gaskets if it is on top end?





Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Looking at Polaris parts site should I be looking at replacing 8,9,11,12 first? Would cylinder and spark plug be clean if 25 (base gasket) was bad?



 

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Most likely a base gasket for it to get into the exhaust valve. 600ves? Very common on them. Get the updated metal base gaskets from the dealer, and an aftermarket top end gasket kit. Half the cost of getting the orings for the head from the dealer separate. Torque the head before the base nuts with the base nuts snug. Built my shop on 2 stroke, mostly Polaris sleds and did 2years at a Polaris dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks!! Great info.

It is a 600 with VES.

- Any recommendations on the best way to drain the coolant? I saw someone suggest using a shop vac since it will just drain out everywhere no matter where you open it up at.

- I have taken down a motor (just to look at damage on a burned up Phazer) but never really done any minor rebuilding like this. Anything special I need to do to piston position when I remove the cylinder? Will piston easily slide back in or do a need to use piston ring compressor to get them back in during re-assembly?

Thanks again!
 

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Shop vac works great. right out the thermostat hole. Will suck the whole thing dry. But the antifreeze is hard on shop vac motors. I have a little pump up suction container I got at Northern Tool for about $50 that I use. Holds the coolant and I can reuse it if wanted. You can't use a ring compressor because the pistons go it from the bottom. Have to use your fingers. Not that hard. There are pins in the ring grooves to align the ring gaps. Also remove the 2 drain plugs below the Y pipe and flush the crank case out once you ge the cylinders off and spry some fogging oil or get a little fresh 2 stroke oil in the crank bearings to make sure all the coolant is out. Very hard on crank bearings.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Shop vac works great. right out the thermostat hole. Will suck the whole thing dry. But the antifreeze is hard on shop vac motors. I have a little pump up suction container I got at Northern Tool for about $50 that I use. Holds the coolant and I can reuse it if wanted. You can't use a ring compressor because the pistons go it from the bottom. Have to use your fingers. Not that hard. There are pins in the ring grooves to align the ring gaps. Also remove the 2 drain plugs below the Y pipe and flush the crank case out once you ge the cylinders off and spry some fogging oil or get a little fresh 2 stroke oil in the crank bearings to make sure all the coolant is out. Very hard on crank bearings.


Good to know on the pins for the ring grooves. I probably would have shrugged my should last year but rebuilt a little weed eater and remember that part now.

My local Lowes has one of those cheap 2.5HP shop vacs for about $30 instead of using my good one.

I really appreciate the tips. I was thinking about the need to clean out stuff once I got in there. Would you just flush out with additional 2-stroke oil or some other kind of degreaser like brake cleaner?

I might be posting some pics if I have further questions.

Thanks again!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Also remove the 2 drain plugs below the Y pipe and flush the crank case out once you ge the cylinders off and spry some fogging oil or get a little fresh 2 stroke oil in the crank bearings to make sure all the coolant is out. Very hard on crank bearings.
Do these drain plugs show up in any of my pics or pics from FSM? Are they really obvious to see when I pull off the exhaust Y pipe off the head?

Sorry to hit you with so many pics.

Thanks!











 

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2 hex head bolts bottom center of each cylinder in the lower crank case half. 10mm I think. Maybe 8mm. Don't remember. They will be pretty obvious once you clean things up.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
What specific areas will need RTV? I noticed on a video on youtube guy was using it in the head bolts.

Do base gaskets go on dry?

What RTV do you recommend?

Is this Three Bond any good?



Thanks!
 

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Base gaskets go on dry, Orings all go in dry, but sometimes a little dab of 3bond to hold them in place is in order on a couple spots. 3 bond is what Polaris uses on the cases to seal them, I typically use Yamabond as it's more readily available to me and does the same thing. A dab on the head bolts is good too as a couple of them go through water passages. Let It sit for about 4-5 hours after assembly before filling with coolant so it cures properly. Almost any RTV type sealant will work on the bolts, so don't go getting 3 bond if you already have something around.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks!

You are a wealth of knowledge!!!

I brought the sled home today so plan to start tearing into it tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Looking at bolt torque sequence...



Is that from the orientation of pic 1 or pic 2?

[Pic 1]


[Pic 2]


Thanks!
 

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Doesn't matter which way you look at it. It ends up being the same either way. And it's toy haven't already put it together it's a good idea to put some 2 stroke oil on the crank bearings before putting back together so they are well lubed on startup. And run your first tank premixed to make sure the pool injection is working properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Cool. Thanks for clarification and info!

Is 50:1 pre-mix good enough or heavier?
 

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I know you said compression is good but if you are going to have the cylinders off I would put a new set of rings in. I always did this when working on my 2 stroke ATV's. It will cost you a little more for rings but when you are this far into the tear down it wouldn't hurt. Run a light hone through the cylinders a couple of times and clean them up real good and you are set.

Ronnie
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I know you said compression is good but if you are going to have the cylinders off I would put a new set of rings in. I always did this when working on my 2 stroke ATV's. It will cost you a little more for rings but when you are this far into the tear down it wouldn't hurt. Run a light hone through the cylinders a couple of times and clean them up real good and you are set.

Ronnie
I might wait to do that on a Phazer project I plan to do in the spring. This is all a little bit new to me. At least I can take my time in garage. I just want to get done by mid-December.

Anyone got any tips to get old gasket off or is it just a long tedious process? :)

Using a plastic scraper and I've tried gasoline, Sea Foam and some product I got at NAPA.

Should I leave something on it overnight or other options?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I was wondering the best way to torque those nuts on the rear of head so picked up one of these.

 
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