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Discussion Starter #1
I know this isn't exactly the right place to ask, but I thought maybe somebody might have a suggestion. I just helped a friend replace the stator on his 2000 Arctic Cat 300. It wasn't charging at all before. We got it back together but it won't accelerate. It will idle fine, but as soon as you try to give it throttle it starts to missfire like crazy and won't rev much beyond idle. First thought is carb, but no amount of choke or even cutting off the air flow with my hand will improve it. It feels electrical - almost like when a reverse rev limiter kicks in. I read on the Arctic Cat site that the voltage regulator is the problem which seems really strange to me. Anybody ever experience something like this?
 

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Can't see how the voltage regulator would cause it to not rev up, but I've seen in most cases that when the stator goes out it will take out the cdi and/or voltage regulator with it.
 

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I have once worked on a cat 400 and it did something similer it turned out to be the magnets on the fly wheel has came un glued and shifted there position once they get far enough out it would get harder to start ...I think they had a tsb or a service bulletin out on them for a while not sure if the 300 would fall into that ?
 

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I didn't remove the flywheel (just the stator) but it looked solid and in good shape. If the magnets had moved I would expect to see something.
 

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I didn't remove the flywheel (just the stator) but it looked solid and in good shape. If the magnets had moved I would expect to see something.
I don't know anything about a Cat, but how exactly could you remove/replace the stator without removing the flywheel?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You remove the recoil assembly and then remove the left side engine cover. The stator is bolted to the inside of the cover and comes off when you remove it. The flywheel stays bolted to the crankshaft.
 

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Do the Cat's have a stuck throttle cable interlock switch like our bikes? Could be some kind of a cutout.

Mark
 

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Sounds like a fuel delivery issue to me. With it warmed up and at idle, try shooting a 5 sec shot of starting fluid through the carb. If it comes up to speed I'd look towards the carb.; a rebuild or good cleaning may be in order especially if the fuel contained ethanol. (CAUTION: Do not spray starting fluid on Hot exhaust). Ethanol is hell on carbs and fuel lines, esp. if the ATV has not ran in a while. IF using ethanol and its been sitting, drain the fuel tank and replace the inline filter and fuel lines.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
That would normally be my first thought. However it was running fine two weeks ago before we replaced the stator and it's been in a garage. I have to believe it's related to what we did. Besides it really acts like someone is flipping a switch on and off. Generally a carb misfire tends to be more erratic. I read on another site that if the voltage regulator is bad the excessive voltage causes the CDI to shut off. Which is exactly what it feels like. I'm told turning the lights on will suck up some of the voltage and reduce the problem some. I'm going to try it this week and see if it makes a difference. If it does, then the voltage regulator is likely bad. I'll also check the voltage output.
 

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Hey i'm having the same problem with my 2000 arctic cat 300. I just replaced the stator as well and now this is happening. i just changed the voltage regulator and that did nothing to solve the issue. Have you found a solution yet?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Same here. My friend replaced the regulator and it's still doing the same thing. It will idle fine, but even the slightest amount of throttle and it dies like somebody shorted out the plug. Let off the throttle and it goes back to idling fine. Let me know if you come up with something. I'm busy this week but plan to get back on it Saturday.
 

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Buddy of mine had alot of problems with his 2002 400 Cat. Same symptoms. Replaced Stator, regulator, cdi, plug, wire....still same results.

Turns out the spark regulator was a bit off and too far from pickup in stator housing. Slight adjustment fixed everything. something stupid and simple.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Buddy of mine had alot of problems with his 2002 400 Cat. Same symptoms. Replaced Stator, regulator, cdi, plug, wire....still same results.

Turns out the spark regulator was a bit off and too far from pickup in stator housing. Slight adjustment fixed everything. something stupid and simple.
What do you mean by "spark regulator"? I replaced the stator, and it came with the pickup and wires. The pickup only goes in one way and isn't adjustable.
 

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I asked him and he said he had to take his chain saw file to pre drilled holes and move it closer to stator. He got this info from a dealer in Montreal where he bought the stator from.

You may also take a look at this video and check to see you dont have this issue...

 

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That would normally be my first thought. However it was running fine two weeks ago before we replaced the stator and it's been in a garage. I have to believe it's related to what we did. Besides it really acts like someone is flipping a switch on and off. Generally a carb misfire tends to be more erratic. I read on another site that if the voltage regulator is bad the excessive voltage causes the CDI to shut off. Which is exactly what it feels like. I'm told turning the lights on will suck up some of the voltage and reduce the problem some. I'm going to try it this week and see if it makes a difference. If it does, then the voltage regulator is likely bad. I'll also check the voltage output.
My after market stator did the same thing! Reverse the two wires coming from the pick up coils. On my stator the wires were green/white and black/white and the stator had a green and blue/white. I naturally figured that green would stay with the green/white and black/white would go to the blue/white. Wrong, switch them. Worked for me after being convinced that I had completely lost my mind!! Your post is very old but I wanted to let you know what worked for me just in case.
 

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My after market stator did the same thing! Reverse the two wires coming from the pick up coils. On my stator the wires were green/white and black/white and the stator had a green and blue/white. I naturally figured that green would stay with the green/white and black/white would go to the blue/white. Wrong, switch them. Worked for me after being convinced that I had completely lost my mind!! Your post is very old but I wanted to letcase.
Did this realy work
 

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Did this realy work
Doubtful - the pulse coil generates a pulse of voltage (typically 3 to 5 volts) to signal the CDI to fire the coil - it is not positive or negative, but simply a pulse - ARCAT3 probably had a connection problem and in fooling around and changing the wire positions, got a good connection.

I worked on a 01 Arctic Cat 300 (Suzuki engine) that had the magnets come loose - the replacement flywheel is of an improved design (has a metal cover over the magnets to prevent them from moving even if they de-bond).

If you find you need a flywheel, the 99 AC300 is the same as the 99 Suzuki LT-F300 - the flywheel for the Suzuki is cheaper ($401.30), but NLA from Suzuki - might look on Ebay for part number 32102-19B20, but the same flywheel is available from AC (part number 3430-022) for $435.95. I buy Arctic Cat parts from the vehicle manufacturer (either Kawasaki or Suzuki) whenever possible as they are always 20% to 40% cheaper than from AC.

Finally, responding to an old thread and getting a response is risky - usually just starting a new thread is best. Let me (us) know what you discover or if you need help diagnosing your problem. Many of us know about all brands of ATV's, not just Polaris, but I (we) are not members of all the forums.
 

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Doubtful - the pulse coil generates a pulse of voltage (typically 3 to 5 volts) to signal the CDI to fire the coil - it is not positive or negative, but simply a pulse - ARCAT3 probably had a connection problem and in fooling around and changing the wire positions, got a good connection.

I worked on a 01 Arctic Cat 300 (Suzuki engine) that had the magnets come loose - the replacement flywheel is of an improved design (has a metal cover over the magnets to prevent them from moving even if they de-bond).

If you find you need a flywheel, the 99 AC300 is the same as the 99 Suzuki LT-F300 - the flywheel for the Suzuki is cheaper ($401.30), but NLA from Suzuki - might look on Ebay for part number 32102-19B20, but the same flywheel is available from AC (part number 3430-022) for $435.95. I buy Arctic Cat parts from the vehicle manufacturer (either Kawasaki or Suzuki) whenever possible as they are always 20% to 40% cheaper than from AC.

Finally, responding to an old thread and getting a response is risky - usually just starting a new thread is best. Let me (us) know what you discover or if you need help diagnosing your problem. Many of us know about all brands of ATV's, not just Polaris, but I (we) are not members of all the forums.
Lol it acually worked just tried it thanks everome for the question and answers
 
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