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Discussion Starter #1
just got a used 2006 polaris outlaw...put new battery in at dealer....runs great, but having issues with the battery draining while riding and then i'm forced to jump..Any ideas? defective battery? problem with charging system?

I'm not very knowledgable on engines/motors so any help would be appreciated
 

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If you are able to ride all day, the charging system is working. To have the battery die over night would suggest to me a bad cell or battery but once that is ruled out I would look to a corroded connection somewhere, or a chaffed wire, something..
 

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Welcome to the board!:med:
 

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CHARGING SYSTEM “BREAK
EVEN” TEST
CAUTION: Do not connect or disconnect the battery
cable or ammeter with the engine running.
CAUTION: Never use the electric starter with the
ammeter connected, or damage to the meter or meter
fuse may result. Do not run test for extended period
of time. Do not run test with high amperage
accessories.
The “break even” point of the charging system is the
point at which the alternator overcomes all system
loads (lights, etc.) and begins to charge the battery.
Depending on battery condition and system load, the
break even pointmay vary slightly. The battery should
be fully charged before performing this test.
G Connect an ammeter (set to DC
amps) in series between the
negative battery cable and terminal.
G Connect a tachometer according to
manufacturer’s instructions.
G With engine off and the key and kill
switch in the ON position, the
ammeter should read negative amps
(battery discharge). Reverse meter
leads if a positive reading is
indicated.
G Start engine with kick start only.
G Increase engine RPM while
observing ammeter and tachometer.
G Note RPM at which the battery starts
to charge (ammeter indication is
positive).
G With any electrical load off, this
should occur at approximately 1500
RPM or lower.
G Lock parking brake to keep brake
light on.
G Repeat test, observing ammeter and
tachometer. With tailllight on,
charging should occur at or below
3000 RPM.
 

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ALTERNATOR OUTPUT TEST
(AC AMPERAGE TEST)
This test measures AC amperage from the alternator.
G Maximum alternator output will be
indicated on the meter. It is not
necessary to increase engine
RPM above idle.
I = Current in Amps
P = Power in Watts
E = Electromotive Force (Volts)
To Calculate Available Alternator Output:
250W
12V
I = = 20.8 Amps
P
E
150W
12V
I = = 12.5 Amps
P
E
70W
12V
I = = 5.8 Amps
P
E
G Place the red lead on the tester in the
10A jack.
G Turn the selector dial to the AC amps
(Aμ) position.
G Connect the meter leads to the
Yellow/Red and Black wires leading
from the alternator.
G Start the engine using the kick
staRter and let it idle. Reading
should be a minimum of 3A at idle.
CAUTION: This test simulates a “full load” on the
alternator. Do not perform this test longer than
required to obtain a reading or the alternator
stator windings may overheat. 3-5 seconds is
acceptable. Do not rev the engine during the test.
Alternator Current Output:
Minimum of 3 AC Amps
 
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