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Discussion Starter #1
I know this has been covered before, but with my 06 sportsman 500 efi with ebs it blew another belt, only 300 kms on it. I am extremely cautious on leaving it in high gear. I always have it in low in awd and anything under 10km/hr. Never in high while going through mud or water, so really only in high while ripping down the trail.
The cogs on the top of the belt always let go. Caught it In routine maintenance this year, about a 2inch long patch on the top blew off. I am using polaris belt 3211091.
Is anyone having luck with any other brand of belts?
Btw yes I do have a qsc clutch kit for my 27" tires.
 

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I have heard a lot of people claim stick to the OEM belts.... I have personally. But I've also seen people claim to use either Gates (Polaris OEM Mfg'er???) or Dayco HD's.

Good catch by the way!
 

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Are you pulling the drive clutch to install and not forcing the belt over the clutches?

Sent from West 'By-God' Virginia!
 

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Can't the clutches be lined up with shims behind the primary sheave??
I watched my brother inlaw line up his 2010 RZR 800. Yours might be the same type of deal. If there not lined right they chew up belts.


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Discussion Starter #5
Are you pulling the drive clutch to install and not forcing the belt over the clutches?

Sent from West 'By-God' Virginia!
Ahhhhh... I'd be lying to you if I said no:damnit:
I slipped it over on the side of the trail, did not think it would hurt it, sh!t, nothing like throwing $120 out the window.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Can't the clutches be lined up with shims behind the primary sheave??
I watched my brother inlaw line up his 2010 RZR 800. Yours might be the same type of deal. If there not lined right they chew up belts.


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What shims would be needed for this?
 

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Can't the clutches be lined up with shims behind the primary sheave??

I watched my brother inlaw line up his 2010 RZR 800. Yours might be the same type of deal. If there not lined right they chew up belts.





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What shims would be needed for this?

He bought them at the dealer. They looked like thin washers. He pulled the primary end installed a shim, put the primary back on and eyeballed it. In his case he had to install another shim to get them inline. He found out about the shims after the second belt in 300 miles. The dealer told him about the alignment thing.


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Through years of snowmobiles and quads I've never pulled a clutch to replace a belt. It's not hard to slip it over driven clutch.
 

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You don't shim behind the primary. It is a press fit onto the tapered end of the crank shaft. You shim behind the secondary. Putting belts on is easier than most think. Put it around the primary, then with a button clutch start the belt onto the bottom of the clutch, rotate the inner sheave clockwise and pull up on the belt. It will pull the secondary open and let you slip the belt right on. Same thing to remove. Just like a snowmobile.

With a roller secondary, there is a tool in your kit to open the secondary and let you slip the belt on without having to stretch and pull and fight it.
 

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I'd agree on the alignment. If it's going through belts that quick they're probably getting too hot from not being aligned properly. Does it drag any? Hard to shift?
I always ran OEM till last year when one of the old hands on here suggested that Gates actually made belts for Polaris. I thought I'd give them a try and have been running a Gates G-Force on my 800 for around 2000 miles now with narry a hiccup and I don't baby belts. They cost about 1/2 the price of OEM and actually seem to grip better and run smoother than the OEM's I had been using.
I did spend some time getting alignment just perfect and it shifts like butta now...way smoother than it ever did new. In fact, I was so impressed I sold my OEM to a buddy for his Ranger and carry a new Gates in the box for the next swap out. If all goes as planned, that will be this summer when getting ready for Colorado. Then I'll carry the old one for a spare. And NO, you don't need to remove clutches to change a belt. As a matter of fact, that could cause the clutches to not seat properly because of the belt pulling on it during installation.
 

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I recently bought a Gates belt to swap my original oem belt, I needed a spare. I bought a G-Force also. I don;t know if Gates makes belts for Polaris or not. My OEM and the new Gates are different. The OEM belt has narrower ridges. I did install the Gates belt and put the OEM in my back bag as a spare. I have yet to test out the Gates belt. I haven't even started the machine to see how it shifts.
 

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My bike came with a new gates on it and the original oem in the box. Only 500 miles on the bike so it was still like new. After chasing a top speed problem and odd engagement, I threw the OEM belt back on and it was a world of difference. Smoother engagement, more torque to the wheels, higher top speed. I keep the gates just in case I get stranded somewhere, but will only ever run an OEM from now on.
 

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You don't shim behind the primary. It is a press fit onto the tapered end of the crank shaft. You shim behind the secondary. Putting belts on is easier than most think. Put it around the primary, then with a button clutch start the belt onto the bottom of the clutch, rotate the inner sheave clockwise and pull up on the belt. It will pull the secondary open and let you slip the belt right on. Same thing to remove. Just like a snowmobile.



With a roller secondary, there is a tool in your kit to open the secondary and let you slip the belt on without having to stretch and pull and fight it.

Thanks for clarifying.. I feel dumb because I should know that the primary is tapered shaft press fit.

Hopefully nobody took my advise too quickly.




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I had a chance to test out the Gates belt yesterday. I had my 2yo daughter sitting in front of me so I didn't get too crazy. I rode around the property a bit. Nice engagement, smooth shifting through the gears and no creeping. I put my thumb into it a couple of times, I can't tell the difference from stock. For half the price, I'd buy another.
 
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