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Discussion Starter #1
I have 2001 polaris sportsman 400 every thing is stock and i blown a 2 belts in the last 500km...i tend to drive in low under 15-20mph as far as I can see with the cover off is that the clutchs do line up with a straight edge any help with what to look for and do would be greatly appreciated.

Thank You
 

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Probably some wear in both clutches at this point. Bushings, rollers, weights. And check your motor mounts too. That era of machine was susceptible to broken mounts then and even more so after 15 years. The lower front one was the worst.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok thank you, Where would be the best place to price out and order a complete rebuild kit if need be?
 

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Epi or ebay seem to have the best prices on rebuild kits. There are several special tools needed to take the clutches apart to rebuild and service them though.
 

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Ok thank you, Where would be the best place to price out and order a complete rebuild kit if need be?
Hey Tikka

Where abouts do you live? We have the same bike and I have the tools.....

Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter #6

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Epi or ebay seem to have the best prices on rebuild kits. There are several special tools needed to take the clutches apart to rebuild and service them though.
im fairly green with this stuff was just wondering as ive heard it could be anything from nylon bushings to the clutch it self would i just order the primary/drive or would i need a new secondary as well and when i order the said kit i need is it gonna come with parts like the bushings and all that? from what i see online i can get this for a secondary kit

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/EPI-Complete...Parts_Accessories&hash=item5afeff9493&vxp=mtr

or i can get this for s secondary and same kind of set up from primary if that makes sense

http://www.ebay.com/itm/POLARIS-SPORTSMAN-500-PRIMARY-DRIVE-CLUTCH-1996-2011-BRAND-NEW-/161080725402

just not sure what i am exactly looking for any help would be great
 

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You should try to figure out what parts you need first. Find a parts fiche and decide what you need. I ordered my parts from cyclepartswarehouse dot com. I removed and looked at my primary clutch first , then decided what parts i needed off the site. You do need special tools to disassemble the clutches. You can make them too.
Can you take a pic or video of your clutches and belt?
Unless your clutch sheaves are cracked , then you just need to have the primary rebuilt.
 

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Your first link is a rebuild kit for the secondary clutch. The second is a cheap aftermarket primary clutch that will last about 500 miles before it falls apart. If you want to know what to replace in them it would be best to get a service manual and go through that. Then you will see what the wear limits and specs are on stuff and how the clutches come apart. If you need either rebuilt I do lots of them for about 60% of the cost of a new one provided they are still in good enough condition to do so.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Anyonne tell me with my vin if my bike is ebs or not ....4xach42a22a525858...I'm at the cabin with barely any cell service and confused lol my manual says 2001 is but then it also says some are not for those years....so would the drive clutch be the problem.more so then the driven clutch or?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Checked front engine mount with pry bar there's about 3/16 to 1/4 inch of play could this be part of problem? Can't do much out here without proper Polaris tools so
 

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Discussion Starter #13
That could be an issue. It really shouldn't move at all with a pry bar.
I had a guy come take a look at it and said.it wasn't moving it was just the rubber thing....I have always had my bike idle hi as it is hard to start in the winter ..doing so supposedly enages my clutch a. Bit rubbing and glazing the belt and over time causing it to blow from what he told me..and inspecting the blown belts sure enough one side is burned and glazed so im going to put new belt on turn idle down.and.hope it works
 

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If only one side is glazed then your clutch alignment is off or your motor mounts are weak or bad. If it's thethe outside of the belt that's glazed I'd say motor mount for sure. If it's engaged slightly at idle it would run against both sides.
 

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The motor mounts are supposed to move a little but it's hard to tell if the rubber is weak and letting the motor move around too much. For $20, I'd take a chance and replace the lower motor mount.
Idling high is a no no as the clutch will always want to grab the belt. Take a picturte or video of your belt and clutches when the motor is running at idle speed. Neither sheave should touch the belt. The belt shouldn't be moving either.
Ridinagain is the "clutch man" .... he knows these clutches really well.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
If only one side is glazed then your clutch alignment is off or your motor mounts are weak or bad. If it's thethe outside of the belt that's glazed I'd say motor mount for sure. If it's engaged slightly at idle it would run against both sides.
One side is really bad and the other side of belt has a tiny bit ...I wish I remembered what way it came off as it was all twisted and messed up pretty bad
 

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Did u try or find anything?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Did u try or find anything?
yah i tried putting a new belt back on going for a ride lol this time it only drove about 30 km before blowing belt it is visibly noticable now that it is my front motor mount as u can see it moved to the side quite a bit...im gonna be looking in to all parts needed now but will forsure needs motor mounts and a polaris clutch alignemnt tool anything else anyone could think of would be great thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #19
also got the bike to a nice idle but really hard to start and touchy with the choke so would i maybe have to adjust my air fuel mixture screw on carb to tune it better or?
 
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