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I usually just eyeball them. If you find that you want to double check the setting you can measure the distance from the float arm to the bowl gasket seat (on the carb body) Measure it back at the float arm pivot point then take another measurement at the far end of the arm and compare the two values. The reason I like to eyeball the arm is to make sure it is not bent in any way. I can see any deformity by eyeballing it as I slowly rotate the carb in my hands. It probably has something to do with the 20+ years of digging into carbs.
 

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Discussion Starter #102
All who care......even if you don't care. The much awaited video of me trying to put together a Mikuni carb has been videoed and is uploading as we speak. It should be here in a few minutes. I know that you are all on the edge of your seat. Please no autographs thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #103
So I was interrupted during the assembly portion of this video and the float arm installation is not shown but you can see it on the disassembly portion. Also I have to upload the other video and it will be up by in the monrning. Thanks
 

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i had a chuckle with the dings on the carb...i think the thing that you were wondering if it can be removed is a slide stop/guide ...
 

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OK lets see if I can remember all the stuff I saw.

1) you did a good job cleaning the bowl the second time. the reason that dirt matters is it will tend to flake off as you use the carb and then will clog your pilot jet. so you really want to make sure all the dirt is removed. Usually you can spray it down with carb cleaning and then let it dry. Then take a clean brush (like a small paint brush with stiff nylon brissels) and the varnish will usually come right off like a powder. In bad cases, and looking at your bowl I can tell that your carb was really bad you should soak the carb body over night and then blow out all the orifices with carb cleaner and then an air compressor to make sure they flow properly.

2) the tube that extends from the bowl cover up into the bowl should be checked to make sure it is clear. That is your bowl over flow and if clogged will cause bogging problems on bumps

3) The main jet baffle (slosh gaurd) is there to decrease the bogging over bumps. This is caused when fuel sloshes in the bowl which tends to richen the mixture. Some of the older carbs used to almost stall the engine when you hit a bad dump under load.

4) That little thing that you say looks like it can be removed is your slide guide. It keeps your slide from rotating in the bore of the carb body. If you look at the slide there are semi-circle cuts in the bottom. These are not random and are designed to properly direct air flow over the jet openings in the body. Changing your slide will effect idle to mid range mixtures. This is not something you need to worry about. Just know that it is very important that your slide line up properly in the bore and that little brass guide is there to keep it straight.

5) your float arm looked pretty good (as far as setup) you need to clean the varnish off of it to make sure you don't have future clogging problems.

6) I didn't see you check the carb body to make sure there are no blockages. When you have the thing disassembled like you did. Your next step before assembly is to check all the opening from the idle circuit and the main circuit to make sure they are open. The main circuit is usually not a problem this opening is larger and not prone to clogging since the needle also rides into it. The idle circuit on the other hand is very prone to varnish problems to the point that it can become completely blocked. When the pilot/idle jet is remove you want to take a can of carb cleaner and spray it into the opening where the idle jet was. Use the straw that came with the can of carb cleaner and insert that into the opening where your jet was. Try to get as good a seal as you can so you can pressurize the ports to blow out the dirt. While blowing through the idle circuit look at the engine side of the carb and notice the 3 or more small ports (approx 1/32" to 1/16") that are milled into the intake side (toward the engine) of the carb. Carb cleaner should be spraying out of those ports, not back out the jet hole. If you see little to no carb cleaner coming through then you have a blockage inside the carb body and you need to clear it. As stated in the carb problems thread, I usually find that a good shot of carb cleaner followed by a shot of compressed air will normally clean out any varnish blockages. In serious cases you may need to use a fine brass wire or the nylon brissle from a brush to run into the holes. Be careful not to use anything that may become wedged into the openings or something hard that will cause physical damage to the holes. I suspect this is where your problem lies with this carb, after seeing the images of your bowl.

7) the rubber boot that you show is behind the carb so any leak there will not cause severe mixture problems. I would still clean the boot with alcohol and then take black RTV and patch that little area to prevent any air from bypassing the filter which would cause your engine to suck in dirt and/or water. The boot you need to be even more concerned about is the intake boot (mounted on the engine). If this boot leaks it will cause air to bypass the carb and cause extreme lean conditions which can cause eratic idle and in the worst case over heated or burned piston.


8) when I said about your float needle being springy I was talking about the little button that comes out of the bottom of the needle not the spring clip retainer that goes over your float arm. There is usually a little spring loaded button that helps to absorb shock from vibrations. Your needle has one but it doesnt extend out as far as most do. I dont think this is a problem since it is a new needle.

9) you didn't adjust your idle mixture screw in the video. I just wanted to make sure that you reset it back to factory and then adjusted it properly from there. This will make a huge difference to idle quality. Looks like your idle mixture screw is on the side of your carb. If you don't know the factory setting use the 1.5 turns out guideline. So the procedure should be turn the screw all the way in (gently do not over tighten) then back it out 1 1/2 turns. This should get you to idle then warm up your engine and adjust this screw for best idle. Be sure to reset your idle speed to factory spec as well so you don't burn spots in your belt while idling in gear at a stop.


I think that's all I saw...
 

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have you checked your reeds to see if there in need of replacement
does this year have the reeds? not all polaris models use them some use an open intake design that uses port timing not reeds to generate flow.
Wow I rarely get to quote myself HAHA...

This model does have reed valves (just checked the parts blowup) Just make sure they are not cracked and clean. remove the 4 bolts that hold the reed assembly on the engine then slide it out. Make sure the sealing surfaces are clean and free from chips or cracks. Then inspect the reeds for cracks, if there are any problems they need to be replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #111
Ok i will check the reeds tonight. Also i had video of me assemlbing the rest of the atv but before i got to the float arm assembly i was interrupted and thought that i picked up where i left off. Only to find that i did not video it at all. I did redo the video to show more of what i have done and it is in two parts. When i had the carb off i checked that rubber boot into the intake a little bit but i did not know how to get it off and was afraid to break something. This is what happens when you do not have any experience. So to check the reed i just remove those 4 bolts right there and pull that whole unit off? I think it is 4 bolts. I am just going from memory. I am going to post those two videos here again. There were some parts missing and another 5 minutes of showing you how the adjustments are. Thanks for everything. I really think that I am going to get it going this time.
 

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Discussion Starter #115 (Edited)
Here is the rest of the video. I was having trouble getting it to upload. It is still missing the section where i did the float arms and such but oh well. I hope that you guys enjoy and i look forward to hearing your response.
 

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Discussion Starter #120
Not yet I was out of town all weekend with no service and no connection to the outside world. Which is good and all but might not have been great for the continuing activity on this thread. I am going to get in there again soon and try some things out. Thanks
 
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