CAN stands for Canbus which is the protocol the ATV uses to allow the ECU, the display cluster and the power steering module to communicate with each other. The network consists of 2 wires (yellow and green) and is terminated on either end with a 120 ohm resistor to maintain a specific impedance. If you are experiencing a break in the CAN circuit, check all CAN connection points and trace the green and yellow wires. You will need a wiring diagram to assist in checking the CAN circuit end to end.

Mark

 

Are you thinking that a resistor has failed or that possibly the power steering module has failed. My dealer can’t fit me in for 2 weeks and I want to figure this out on my own so I can get a ride or 2 in before the bush closes for the season due to fire hazard

 

What resistance do you get when measured as specified in the attachment in my post above?

Mark

 

123 ohms across the green and yellow wire at the diagnostic plug

 

Ok, with 123 ohms, you've got a break in the wiring somewhere or a module issue. Does your gauge cluster work?

I don't have a wiring diagram for your model so I can't give you specific pins to check in module connectors.

I would check continuity on both canbus wires from the ecu to the cluster and ecu to the power steering module first.

I'll try to post diagrams of an 850 canbus network tomorrow.

Mark

 

Yes the gauge cluster works. Everything works flawlessly other then the power steering. Occasionally the power steering comes for a few minutes but it then dies again

 

Here is the diagram of the canbus signals for an 850xp. Yours is probably different. It is odd that there are no codes being set. Check the connector at the power steering unit for issues first.

Mark

 

could you get the pinout can for the Polaris Side by Side 2019 RANGER 1000 BC 49S (R05) - R19RRB99A9 STEERING, STEERING ASM. -R19RRB99A9 (C700036)?

 

So I traced the can circuit through the display connector, the power steering and the ecu. All displaying roughly 1 ohm. What are your thoughts as of the next step if you were me.

 

I'm wondering if the CAN circuit within the EPS module is toast. That could possible explain the circuit resistance of 120 ohms plus the fact that codes aren't being set. To rule things out, I'd put a 120 ohm resistor across the CAN wires at the EPS connector (removed from the EPS module) and retest the CAN circuit resistance at the diagnostic plug. You should see 60 ohms. If you see 60 ohms then there's something up with the EPS. If not, there's something else going on.

Mark

 

Ever any updates on this? I think I have a similar problem (no sensors at cluster - 2011 Ranger XP 800 EFI) and am going through the steps suggested so far..

 

to the forum

 

Thanks for the welcome!

I measured green and yellow on the diagnostic plug and I get 121 ohms. What should the reading be? To review I have no sensor data at cluster. (2011 Ranger XP 800 EFI no EPS). Check engine code reads 0520230 31.You indicated it should have 120 ohm resistor "on either end with a 120 ohm resistor" - what end/ends? Any chance I can get the CAN bus wiring diagram for 2001 800 EFI with no EPS? According to the last reply a measurement of 121 ohms indicates a break or bad module. What other modules use the CAN bus? Thanks a bunch! Ready for the next steps!

 

Found my issue and answered most of my questions - will update later tonight or tomorrow the steps I followed and problem.

 

For those with similar CAN bus problems here is how I debugged it:
1.) disconnect speedometer, check resistance on the speedometer where green and yellow wires go - should read 120 ohms - check
2.) pull you Disconnect the ECM, test the greed and yellow pins (on the 11 800 it was pins pins 36 and 48) - check
3.) on the diagnostic plug put the ohm meter on green and yellow, plug in speeedometer it should go to 120, plug in ECM it should go to 60 (two 120 ohm in parallel). It did not go up..... I was stuck at 120 so the diagnostic port was not seeing the ECM connected,
4.) Check continuity from diagnostic green/yellow to ECM connector green/yellow.... Yes, wires were going there....

This made no sense since if the wires go the harness and you plug it in it should get the 120 ohms across the pins.... I wiggle the connector a bit... it goes to 60, wiggle a bit more, back to 120.

Turns out the Yellow pin in the ECU harness somehow had the lock break and it was just float inside the harness, you can pull the yellow wire right out.

So now the question is how to repair it properly..... a new wiring harness is costly. ideas?? I wish I knew what the lock on the pin was and if I could get that pin to crimp on.

The good news is if I hold this wire in, all the gauge sensors work again... except now I have the fun 51 4 engine error.

How common are Polaris wiring harness issues ? Should I anticipate wiring harness issues to keep occurring at this age?

Anybody know if this is is missing a lock? Seen this problem before?

Thanks! back to the fun!

 

Sounds like similar to my 850xp fault, i'll have to check those wires allso. Mine is now working, had to remove battery cables and the fault code from can fault did go away.

In here Finland those wire clips can be found in autopart stores. It should sound little "klip" when you insert it to connector. And it wont come out. To get it off you need small pick to push that small lock and pull it out..

 

In case anyone is following, and also does not appreciate people who don't post conclusions.... Turns out the pins should look like this:

They should have a rectangular box that is crimped on the ends. When the get pulled out the box will stay in the housing and it will look like this:

notice it is missing the rectangle end:

And it will be nearly impossible to get this pin back in the pin socket, and back in the rectangle in the socket. I had 3 wires that pulled out. and I was able to remove the socket lock, push the rectangle boxes out, then splice in 3 new wires into the old socket.

I did this first to the the yellow CAN wire - that fixed all the CAN bus errors. Then I had a TPS voltage engine code... tested the TPS, checked the wiring, and what do you know... same problem - a pin pulle dout.

I think what happened is if the pins are taped tight, then attached to the ECU the 90 degree bend of the wires can cause some of the pins (a cluster of 3 pins in this case) to have a lot of strain on them. I also noticed that the way it was taped those3 wires were slightly shorter, so that added strain on them, and eventually with prolonged vibration they pulled out.

After fixing the harness I tapped the wires so that they had some relief around the ECU socket and hopefully all is good now.

I did notice during the tracing of the TPS wires that where the TPS, TBAP, and Idle air control wires met the harness there was significant wearing of the wire harness in that area from vibration. Inside the wiring harness (Inside the hard plastic wiring conduit) the wires had actually worn against that conduit from vibration! The "wiring reroute" recall was done but there was still a major issue of wire rubbing occurring. Glad I caught all this while investigating the ECU harness pins - it was an issue waiting to happen.