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Discussion Starter #1
Need help fast
I have a 2010 ranger 500 efi
It cranks fine, but if the fan and headlights are running at the same time the engine runs rough and will die while idling. No codes are showing up my dealer is backed up for a month.
Starting to wonder if this thing has a computer that makes it act up before and during hunting season.
 

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Pull the battery, charge it, and get it load tested.

Sean
 

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Welcome to the board!:med:
 

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Well...at idle your charge system really isn't doing much charging. That is why I steered you toward the battery. So, if the battery is good and fully charged, I would say the fan or lights are drawing too much current.

You can check the charge system, but as I mentioned, it really should not do much charging at idle. As a matter of fact you can kill the charge on a battery sitting around idling with your lights and fan on.

Anyhow, put a meter on the battery and check the voltage with the quad off. Should be about 12.5 volts. Then start it and rev it up to 3-4k RPM. Should be about 14.5 volts.

When my charge system was NOT working, I would get about two trips off a charged battery before I had to charge it again...

Sean
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Load test on battery checked ok. The battery is holding its charge so im thinking stator. If it was the rectifier the battery would be drained. Right? Stone Mason by trade no mechanic by for... But I can replace parts!
 

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If you had a battery you could borrow to try could be helpful. Computerized machines can be very picky about batteries I have found. In a car I had a similar issue and replaced the battery and it was the same. Got the second new battery a couple days later and all was well.

With a good hot battery it should run I would think with no charging system unless something is shorting to ground. Your current battery may be OK but I would want to connect the leads of a $15 digital volt meter and ride it some watching the meter. Just do not be texting at the same time. :)

Keep us updated.
 

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If your regulator or stator was bad, it would give the same result. The test I mentioned above...if you have 14.5+ VDC at 3000-4000 RPM, then the charge system is working. If it was not working, you should eventually kill your battery (get a battery light).

Battery connections tight/clean on battery, solenoid, and frame ground connections?

Sean
 
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