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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,
Just noticed the check engine light on my quad is on. Its a 2007 Sportsman 800 by the way. Any ideas as to why it came on? How can I get it to shut off? Will I hurt anything if I run it with the check engine light on? The quad still runs great even with the light on.

Thanks,
Matt
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Nevermind! I disconnected the battery for about 20 minutes, reconnected everything, fired it up and bye bye check engine icon.

Matt
 

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by disconnecting the battery you reset the memory of the ECU. if the problem still exsist, the check engine light will come back. it was the check engine light, and not just a picture of a wrench, right?

there could be hundreds of reasons the check engine light came on. some very minor, some very severe. there was a code in the system diagnostics you could have pulled up. and could have googled that code to figure out exactly what caused the code, and how major the problem is
 

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mmm.. porbably was just minor. just keep an eye on it. if it comes again there is a way to read a code number on the speedo display to give you an idea of what is going on
 

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to check the codes make sure the trans is in neutral and turn the key on and off 3 times leaving it on the 3rd time and it should display a code.


Diagnostic "Blink Codes" Chart

21 - Loss of Synchronization
22 - TPS Circuit: Open or Short to Ground
22 - TPS Circuit: Shot to Battery
23 - RAM Error: Defective ECU
25 - Transmission Input - Invalid Gear
26 - Vehicle Speed Sensor - Implausible
41 - Air Temp Sensor: Open or Short Circuit to Sensor Voltage (ECU)
41 - Air Temp Sensor: Short Circuit to Ground
42 - Engine Temperature Sensor Circuit: Open or Short to Battery
42 - Engine Temperature Sensor Circuit: Short to Ground
45 - Barometric Pressure Sensor: Circuit Low Input
46 - Barometric Pressure Sensor: Circuit High Input
51 - Injector 1: Open Load
51 - Injector 1: Short Circuit to Ground
51 - Injector 1: Short Circuit to Battery
52 - Injector 2: Open Load
52 - Injector 2: Short Circuit to Ground
52 - Injector 2: Short Circuit to Battery
54 - Engine Temperature Lamp: Open Load
54 - Engine Temperature Lamp: Short Circuit to Battery
54 - Engine Temperature Lamp: Short Circuit to Ground
55 - Diagnostic Lamp: Open Load
55 - Diagnostic Lamp: Short Circuit to Ground
55 - Diagnostic Lamp: Short Circuit to Battery
56 - Pump Relay: Open Load
56 - Pump Relay: Short Circuit to Ground
56 - Pump Relay: Short Circuit to Battery
58 - Cooling Fan: Open Load
58 - Cooling Fan: Short Circuit to Ground
58 - Cooling Fan: Short Circuit to Battery
61 - End of Diagnostic Check
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big ed

mmm.. porbably was just minor. just keep an eye on it. if it comes again there is a way to read a code number on the speedo display to give you an idea of what is going on
.

I have a 2005/800 polaris sportsman with 43 hours on it, my check engine light is on also,should i do the disconnect the battery trick or something else ??
 

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mmm.. porbably was just minor. just keep an eye on it. if it comes again there is a way to read a code number on the speedo display to give you an idea of what is going on
.

I have a 2005/800 polaris sportsman with 43 hours on it, my check engine light is on also,should i do the disconnect the battery trick or something else ??
check the code first as 4play suggested so we know what is going on. Quad in neutral, turn the key on and off 3 times quick, let it stay in the on position on the 3rd time and it should flash the engine light to give you the code. 5 flashes =5, ect. all codes are 2 digit numbers.

let us know what it says
 

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I DID IT THREE TIMES, I GOT 6 QUICK BLINKS THEN A SLIGHTLY DELAY 7TH BLINK, DID THE SAME ALL THREE TIMES, THEN AT THE END IT HAD THIS ON THE DASH LOOKED LIKE (WAIE) THE (E) WAS MISSING THE TOP HORIZONITAL LINE. APPRECIATE YOUR HELP. Thanks E
 

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I DID IT THREE TIMES, I GOT 6 QUICK BLINKS THEN A SLIGHTLY DELAY 7TH BLINK, DID THE SAME ALL THREE TIMES, THEN AT THE END IT HAD THIS ON THE DASH LOOKED LIKE (WAIE) THE (E) WAS MISSING THE TOP HORIZONITAL LINE. APPRECIATE YOUR HELP. Thanks E
6+1 is code 61. which is just a factory "end" code. its not a code related to the service engine light.
 

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The check engine light comes on just when i turn the key on before cranking it, maybe thats normal, sorry to seem stupid but i just brought it not long ago. once started the lights gone ??

Thanks
E
 

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ohhh yeah...EDD, thats normal.

If the machine isnt running but the key is on, it will throw the check engine light. Thats just means its running through its list of sensors. Totally normal. When you start it and the light goes away. Thats good! We only need to worry about the check engine light when it comes on when the motor is running.
 

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:inwc:

Okkkk....

This code apply to the 850 XP too ??
to check the codes make sure the trans is in neutral and turn the key on and off 3 times leaving it on the 3rd time and it should display a code.


Diagnostic "Blink Codes" Chart

21 - Loss of Synchronization
22 - TPS Circuit: Open or Short to Ground
22 - TPS Circuit: Shot to Battery
23 - RAM Error: Defective ECU
25 - Transmission Input - Invalid Gear
26 - Vehicle Speed Sensor - Implausible
41 - Air Temp Sensor: Open or Short Circuit to Sensor Voltage (ECU)
41 - Air Temp Sensor: Short Circuit to Ground
42 - Engine Temperature Sensor Circuit: Open or Short to Battery
42 - Engine Temperature Sensor Circuit: Short to Ground
45 - Barometric Pressure Sensor: Circuit Low Input
46 - Barometric Pressure Sensor: Circuit High Input
51 - Injector 1: Open Load
51 - Injector 1: Short Circuit to Ground
51 - Injector 1: Short Circuit to Battery
52 - Injector 2: Open Load
52 - Injector 2: Short Circuit to Ground
52 - Injector 2: Short Circuit to Battery
54 - Engine Temperature Lamp: Open Load
54 - Engine Temperature Lamp: Short Circuit to Battery
54 - Engine Temperature Lamp: Short Circuit to Ground
55 - Diagnostic Lamp: Open Load
55 - Diagnostic Lamp: Short Circuit to Ground
55 - Diagnostic Lamp: Short Circuit to Battery
56 - Pump Relay: Open Load
56 - Pump Relay: Short Circuit to Ground
56 - Pump Relay: Short Circuit to Battery
58 - Cooling Fan: Open Load
58 - Cooling Fan: Short Circuit to Ground
58 - Cooling Fan: Short Circuit to Battery
61 - End of Diagnostic Check
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i used to have the same "WAIE" with the missing line on the E message. When i got it, my battery died shortly after, i charged the battery and have never had the message again.
 

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I could use a little help with the check engine light...

I have had the CK light come on two weeks ago while riding... Went out shortly after. Stayed off for a day then came on again, but went out a very short time later. I haven't ridden it since until today.

I had a Yellow button over ride switch go bad and cause the pod to scroll thru the settings on its own... Figured this was the cause. Changed out the switch and double checked the wiring. All OK.

Then today I was moving trailers around and it came on again, but went out a couple minutes later...

Now I have had the battery disconnected for most of this week. Just connected today. It hasn't been on a charge in over two months. (Starts fine no reason to chg...)

I just pulled the codes... there are 4 of them.

46,41,54,25 in that order.

Two of the codes are or could be multiple things, all but 25 is or could be ground/neg related. Because it comes and goes, I'm leaning to the ground problem somewhere. But connections at battery are clean, tight and covered with die electric grease.

Where would I find grounding points? I assume they are the same for most machines...

Thanks,
CW
 

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After I wrote that I realized I had changed out the switch in the pod for the reverse override. (I knew it was bad) But never cleared the codes remaining...

SO I pulled the battery connections for a couple minutes and restarted the machine and allowed it to get to temp. (Fan came on) I turned it off and re tested. ...

Still have a code 41 remaining. (Air Temp Sensor) Where is it?

Any ideas... If I can locate it, I can clean connections and see what I get...Can anyone help with a location and what it looks like??

CW
 

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OK, reading and more reading old posts as well as a couple PMs to members the consensus is the air sensor is the sensor in the duct leading between the air filter and the throttle body. I pulled the sensor, found it a little dirty. I cleaned it, checked the wires and dielectric greased the connection. (All good) Pulled the air box, cleaned it and the ducts interior then cleaned the entrance to the throttle body. (Not very dirty) I did find the top of the duct beginning to dry rot, with many small cracks beginning. I covered the top with a thin layer of RTV silicone. (NOTHING was cracked thru) I Pulled the pos battery cable for about ten minutes while I re-assembled and then I checked for a code. None... So I restarted machine and allowed to get up to temp and retested... I still have a code 41

IF this is correct sensor, I guess I need to change it... BEFORE laying down the $$ can someone confirm this is the correct part?

CW
 

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Is your bike backfiring any? This can be caused by holes in the tubing from the air box to the throttle body.

Have you run your vent lines into the pod? I read the best thing to get rid of the oil that is sent to the air box via the crank vent is to get about 4 feet of auto fuel line the right size and connect it to the valve cover and make two or three coils in it, then run it up to the pod.
 

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Is your bike backfiring any? This can be caused by holes in the tubing from the air box to the throttle body.

Have you run your vent lines into the pod? I read the best thing to get rid of the oil that is sent to the air box via the crank vent is to get about 4 feet of auto fuel line the right size and connect it to the valve cover and make two or three coils in it, then run it up to the pod.
Yes P.O. ran all the small lines up into the pod.

No back firing, I did check the intake close and did find some cracks in the surface. None going thru. I covered it with RTV and called it good. it was just the top.

I have been reading everything I can find on this problem. What I have learned is a very high percentage of the time it is the wires. Many find the purple one abraded causing the problem. There is a company making HD wire loom to correct the issues. 35$. (I have one coming) A small percentage of the time its the sensor.
I looked mine over close and didn't see anything. I am going back out and gonna look really close....

CW
 
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