I would pull the clutch cover and observe the conditions in there. See how the clutches are acting and possibly post a video?


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I pulled the cover and just sitting there revving the engine the drive clutch seems to be moving in and out OK. With the wheels jacked up everything looks to be fine. But there is no way for me to put a load on it and I'
m not real comfortable trying to ride it while looking at the clutches with no cover. That's just asking for your foot to be taken off. Is there any other way to diagnose this type of thing.

Also I did a search on Polaris Microfiche and I found that the Magnum takes part # 1321632 for the drive clutch which is the same part number as the 97 Sportsman 500 the only thing it's not real clear on is the EBS. Is EBS interchangeable? I'm not real sure what makes EBS work.

 

EBS clutches have a one way bearing in the center. They use the drop in engine RPM to help slow the wheel speed of the machine. Like going down a long hill. Off the thottle, the slow engine speed helps control ground speed.

They are interchangeable to a point. Non EBS vs EBS clutches use a different belt. For your purposes, I would think you could swap them to find out if the primary clutch is the problem.

 

Thanks. Just what I needed. I swapped things around this weekend and measured and it looks like my issue is the clutch. The belt is out of spec so I think I could just replace the belt and get a little more time out of it but there was wear on the primary and things just don't seem as tight as I would like them. As far as I know this clutch has never been rebuilt by the PO and it has 5K miles on it.

 

Glad I could help! Are you going to rebuild or replace? There are some specs that you will need to know with a rebuild. And some parts you will probably need to replace for sure. The weights and shafts are most likely shot. Rollers on the inside of the spider may or may not be good. There should be no clearance between the buttons on the spider and the outer sheave where the spider lives. If it wasn't noisy...like a main bearing going out, then you can probably put in new weights, shafts, bushings, buttons and main spring and move on. If there is too much clearance on the spider or it was hammering there you might look at a replacement.

It takes a few special tools to get the clutch apart, and off for that matter, and they are not cheap. However if you have more than one machine, its worth the $$.

 

I think I'm going to rebuild. I have already ordered the special tools (holding fixture, jamb nut socket, spider tool) that I don't think I can build. I was planning on using the EPI kit I linked below along with ordering a new stock blue spring. Since this is my son's ATV I want it to be pretty much stock. He's too young to start really dialing up the performance. Please share any additional advice or experience you may have. I'm always happy to learn from someone who has been there an done that.



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Only a couple things I have learned after doing a few of them. Mark the parts before you take them off. They are supposed to be balanced so the cover needs to go on the same place it came off.

The Jam nut is not a big deal, but the spider is torqued to 200 ftlb. So getting enough muscle on it to get it loose can be fun. If your vise swivels from side to side, start it all the way to the right to get the spider loose. It is gonna want to move that way anyhow.

Good luck with it!!!!